- May 3, 2014
- 59,101
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Chlorinator low voltage
- Thread starter Zamsaf
- Start date
Goldline introduced AquaLogic in 2003. Hayward acquired Goldline in August of 2004.
Hayward discontinued AquaLogic in 2008 and replaced it with Hayward ProLogic.
How are you getting 3 years old for the Aqualogic?
Measure the salinity with a K-1766 salt test kit.
Check the cell type in the configuration menu.
What cell type/size do you have?
Check the voltages as recommended earlier.
High amperage can cause low voltage, but the amperage is not high enough to cause low voltage.
Maybe the board is misreading the voltage or the amperage.
Check the voltage and amperage to see if they match the display.
Reverse polarity and post the new readings.
This shows that you have the AquaPlus and not the AquaLogic.
AquaPlus is the same as the ProLogic.
It looks like the remote is an old AquaLogic.
AquaPlus is the same as the ProLogic.
It looks like the remote is an old AquaLogic.
Last edited:
SWG size
Hello all. How do I tell the size of my SWG? It was just installed but don’t know how to tell the size.
www.troublefreepool.com
If you have a T-15, then the cell size in the configuration menu is probably wrong.
Maybe the pool person changed it to T-9 or T-5?
It looks like the 3 year warranty just expired.
Go through the diagnostic manual to see if you can figure out the problem.
What day was the system installed?
If less than 3 years, file a warranty claim.
Did you register your equipment with Hayward?
I did register it and the registration says the warranty started on 7/28/2020. I’m going to call them tomorrow and hope it’s still under warranty.
I think that the cell type is probably wrong and you can change that as shown in the video that I posted earlier.
The low voltage might be due to the input voltage being too low, so that is the first thing I would check.
Low input voltage won't be covered under warranty, but if you are not comfortable checking the voltage, then just let them figure it out.
If you have a problem with the input voltage, then you will need an electrician to figure out what the problem is.
The low voltage might be due to the input voltage being too low, so that is the first thing I would check.
Low input voltage won't be covered under warranty, but if you are not comfortable checking the voltage, then just let them figure it out.
If you have a problem with the input voltage, then you will need an electrician to figure out what the problem is.
I just checked and the cell type was correct as t 15. How do I check the low voltage?
Based on the current of 5.88 amps, the salinity would be a lot lower if the cell type was T-15.
If the salinity really was 5,600 ppm the amperage would be a lot higher.
Maybe the low voltage is throwing the measurements off.
You should have 120 volts going to the terminals on the circuit board as shown in the diagnostic manual.
Can you show a picture of the circuit board?
It's odd that they gave you a 15 + year old AquaLogic remote.
Maybe the remote is having a problem.
Use the display on the actual outdoor panel to see if the numbers match.
If the salinity really was 5,600 ppm the amperage would be a lot higher.
Maybe the low voltage is throwing the measurements off.
You should have 120 volts going to the terminals on the circuit board as shown in the diagnostic manual.
Can you show a picture of the circuit board?
It's odd that they gave you a 15 + year old AquaLogic remote.
Maybe the remote is having a problem.
Use the display on the actual outdoor panel to see if the numbers match.
Last edited:
Can you see where it says Control Power 120 VAC on the right in red?
Measure the voltage there and measure the 240 voltage coming in from the main panel and measure the voltage from each power wire to the neutral.
Measure the voltage there and measure the 240 voltage coming in from the main panel and measure the voltage from each power wire to the neutral.
Can you post the diagnostic readings and then reverse polarity and post the new readings as shown in the video?
If the input voltage checks out, follow the manual for other tests.
I had a pool repair service come out and they said my chlorinator was bad. The salt system was reading higher salt than what was actually in the pool. They gave me a replacement cell.
I changed the cell and the issue is still there
I changed the cell and the issue is still there
Similar threads
