Check salt and check cell lights on steady

[JamesW]

It looks like you have the Broad Salt Model.

Can you show the door label?

Home - CA

Hayward offers environmentally responsible, cutting-edge pool and spa equipment for residential and commercial, in-ground and above-ground pools.

www.hayward-pool.ca

https://www.hayward-pool.ca/assets/documents/poolscanada/pdf/manuals/aquatrol-092577-RevD.pdf

Home - CA

Hayward offers environmentally responsible, cutting-edge pool and spa equipment for residential and commercial, in-ground and above-ground pools.

www.hayward-pool.ca

 

[Burito]

Just tried to change the product name. The options are from AL0 to AL5. None aeem to work.

Hi again. Don't know if this would help but just found the shipping box from Hayward and this is a sticker that was on the box.

 

[Burito]

It looks like you have the Broad Salt Model.

Can you show the door label?


View attachment 450321

Home - CA

Hayward offers environmentally responsible, cutting-edge pool and spa equipment for residential and commercial, in-ground and above-ground pools.

www.hayward-pool.ca

View attachment 450322

https://www.hayward-pool.ca/assets/documents/poolscanada/pdf/manuals/aquatrol-092577-RevD.pdf

View attachment 450323

Home - CA

Hayward offers environmentally responsible, cutting-edge pool and spa equipment for residential and commercial, in-ground and above-ground pools.

www.hayward-pool.ca

View attachment 450324

Sure. Here you go.

 

[JamesW]

I have never seen the model without the timer, so that’s new for me.

Try changing to low salt mode and then recheck the readings.

The AL-5 is the setting for the system to work with Jandy Automation, so the box is expecting input from an external Jandy automation box.

Normally, the system won’t work on AL-5 without external input.

Can you show the whole circuit board with the display board out of the way?

 

[JamesW]

Yes thats what Im using and the salt level after 18 drops is 3600.

I'm questioning the salinity reading based on the cell amperage.

Can you show a picture of the cell label?

Can you describe the salt testing process?

Are you using 10 ml or 25 ml sample?

I would recommend a different test to make sure of the actual salinity.

 

[Burito]

I'm questioning the salinity reading based on the cell amperage.

Can you show a picture of the cell label?

Can you describe the salt testing process?

Are you using 10 ml or 25 ml sample?

I would recommend a different test to make sure of the actual salinity.

Here is a pic of the cell label and the vertical mount.
Salt testing is as per the instructions. Withdraw water from pool. Always about 2 ft down. Take 10 ml and put in the provided tube. Add 1 drop of yellow and stir. Then add 1 drop of red while stiring until the first sign of salmon color then stop. Take the court of drops and multiple it by 200. Presto your salt level.
As above I'm using a 10ml sample.
What about a sample to a local pool supplier? I think Taylor is more accurate however prepared to try anything at this point .

Thank you JamesW for the time you are putting into this matter. Much appreciated.

 

[JamesW]

Try changing to low salt mode and then recheck the readings.

 

[JamesW]

Can you show the whole circuit board with the display board out of the way?

What about a sample to a local pool supplier?

I would want at least 3 independent salinity tests to be really sure including a calibrated meter.

I never trust any single salinity test.

Based on the amperage, I suspect that the box is more likely to be correct than the test kit.

 

[Burito]

Try changing to low salt mode and then recheck the readings.

View attachment 450383

View attachment 450386

Readings after change to Low Salt Mode:

Screen	1	2	3
Temp	78	78	78
Voltage	31.1	27	27.1
Current	0	3.22	3.17
Desired Output	77P	77P	77P
Instant Salt	0	2400	2400
Name	AL-2
Software Rev	r1.49	r1.49	r1.49
	lslt	lslt	ls1t

Yahoo. Lights are off and generating. Progress. Love it. Now for your pic.

Can you show the whole circuit board with the display board out of the way?


I would want at least 3 independent salinity tests to be really sure including a calibrated meter.

I never trust any single salinity test.

Based on the amperage, I suspect that the box is more likely to be correct than the test kit.

K. Here are 2 pics of the current biard without the screen.

Tomorrow I will bring a sample to 2 local pool supply stores and alao take a new reading with Taylor.

Until then thanks again.

 

[JamesW]

Ok, somehow AL-5 has changed to AL-2, which is good.

I suspect that the salinity reading from the box is correct and the K-1766 is off for some reason.

I would try some new reagents and I would get a conductivity salt test meter with calibration solution to verify the actual salinity.

In the future, if you want to switch to a T-15 cell, you can connect the two points at the J4 jumper and that changes the setting to T-15.

You can leave the salinity where it is and leave it in low salt mode or increase the salinity and switch back to normal salt mode.

 

[Burito]

Ok, somehow AL-5 has changed to AL-2, which is good.

I suspect that the salinity reading from the box is correct and the K-1766 is off for some reason.

I would try some new reagents and I would get a conductivity salt test meter with calibration solution to verify the actual salinity.

In the future, if you want to switch to a T-15 cell, you can connect the two points at the J4 jumper and that changes the setting to T-15.

You can leave the salinity where it is and leave it in low salt mode or increase the salinity and switch back to normal salt mode.


View attachment 450415

Yes I meant to pint out the change to AL-5. Glad to hear that that was a good thing. Just checked agin and everything appears to be working properly.
I'll do the salts hecks tomorrow and let you know of the results.
Thanks again for all your expert research facts and help. Do I owe you anything for your troubles?

 

[JamesW]

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[Burito]

Readings after change to Low Salt Mode:

Screen	1	2	3
Temp	78	78	78
Voltage	31.1	27	27.1
Current	0	3.22	3.17
Desired Output	77P	77P	77P
Instant Salt	0	2400	2400
Name	AL-2
Software Rev	r1.49	r1.49	r1.49
	lslt	lslt	ls1t

Yahoo. Lights are off and generating. Progress. Love it. Now for your pic.

K. Here are 2 pics of the current biard without the screen.

Tomorrow I will bring a sample to 2 local pool supply stores and alao take a new reading with Taylor.

Until then thanks again.

K. Only 1 pool supply store was able to do the check. The other had no disks.

1 Pool supply store......4487 using disk, 4300 with meter
2. Taylor K1677....,......4200
3. AquaCheck test strips.....4300
4. AquaTrol screen ......2400

While I was at the local pool store, he kindly loaned me a new AquaTrol box. When hooked up it showes the same number as my box ....2400.

Also the name was AL-7, like at had for the first 6 yrs of using my box not the AL-2 that we had on the old box after changing to low salt option. Note the type was normal rather than low salt type on this loaner box.

This leads me to thinking that it may be the cell. I'm certainly not an expert. Just trying to narrow in on the provlem.

But when I first called Hayward in July they told me it was the cell. So I puchased a new one. Then when that didnt work, they send me the present board. When that didn't work they said it must be the cell. So I returned it and put the 2nd new one on. This is the cell on the pool now..

What do you suggest at this pint JamesW.

 

[JamesW]

Maybe a bad cell or low salinity.

It seems unlikely that the cell would be bad multiple times in a row.

I am still not convinced that the Aquatrol salinity is incorrect.

It will work on low salt mode, so you can just run it like that.

Was the store able to test the cell?

Find a store that can test the cell and have them test the salinity again.

 

[Burito]

Ok. Thanks I will have them check the cell and salinity. Thanks

 

[JamesW]

This cell was made on the 167th day of 2020, which makes it over 2 years old.

Is this the cell that Hayward sent you as a warranty cell?

The warranty cell serial number starts with 1E and the cell part number ends in "W", so this cell does not look like a Hayward warranty cell.

3E means that it has a 3 year warranty.

So, if the cell tests as bad at the store, they should be able to give you a new one under warranty.

 

[JamesW]

Ill try and shorten what I've done since June 3rd when I contacted Hayward.
1. Hayward told me to replace the cell, I did.

Then they told me it was a bad new cell, so I drove 200 km to get a new replacement cell. That didn't work

Replaced the cell again(warranty) and no change.

Can you go over what has happened so far?

It's a little confusing regarding the cell situation.

 

[johnnydot]

Here is a pic of the cell label and the vertical mount.
Salt testing is as per the instructions. Withdraw water from pool. Always about 2 ft down. Take 10 ml and put in the provided tube. Add 1 drop of yellow and stir. Then add 1 drop of red while stiring until the first sign of salmon color then stop. Take the court of drops and multiple it by 200. Presto your salt level.
As above I'm using a 10ml sample.
What about a sample to a local pool supplier? I think Taylor is more accurate however prepared to try anything at this point .

Thank you JamesW for the time you are putting into this matter. Much appreciated.

I don't know if this will make a difference but your cell is upside down to the way mine is and I have been using the Hayward AquaTroll for quite a number of years..

 

[JamesW]

In my opinion, it’s low salinity or a bad cell, but both seem to have been ruled out.

If you have a store nearby that can test cells and salinity, they should be able to tell you if the cell is good and the salinity.

If you don’t have a store nearby, maybe mail the cell and a water sample to Hayward to see what they say.

 

[JamesW]

I don't know if this will make a difference but your cell is upside down to the way mine is and I have been using the Hayward AquaTrol for quite a number of years..

The cell can go either way.