- May 23, 2015
- 24,491
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Cant hold chlorine
- Thread starter Frank in FL
- Start date
- May 23, 2015
- 24,491
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Honestly, I would prefer if you used a 25mL sample size, two heaping scoops and then carefully make sure you are adding the titrating drops at a rate of about 1 drop/sec. At 25mL the precision is 0.2ppm/drop. I realize it’s more reagent use but there is less of a chance of screwing up the sample size and you can easily differentiate a 0.8ppm loss from a 1.2ppm loss. Using a 10mL sample, you would fail in both instances.
10mL sample sizes are good for getting ballpark numbers, but they not very accurate. For an OCLT, accuracy is important.
10mL sample sizes are good for getting ballpark numbers, but they not very accurate. For an OCLT, accuracy is important.
Good morning.
65 drops just now. FC is 13. So I lost 1.8 in 11 hours.
Water is still crystal clear
65 drops just now. FC is 13. So I lost 1.8 in 11 hours.
Water is still crystal clear
- May 23, 2015
- 24,491
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Pretty darn close.
I don’t see anything in the thread that would indicate a chemical problem.
I know you said the filter was clean, but have you taken it apart and soaked the filter elements to clean them rather than just hose them off? It’s work for sure but you might try elevating your chlorine back up to 16ppm and then shut off the pump and give the filter a good cleaning. For a cartridge filter, I recommend using trisodium phosphate (TSP) and bleach. TSP can be found in the paint cleaning section of Home Depot and it’s usually on the top shelf (Savogran is the brand name I use). Do not use the “alternative” TSP or environmentally friendly TSP....it’s not actually TSP. An alternative method is to soak them in automatic dishwasher detergent but you need to really rinse them off well.
Aside from that, I don’t have any other ideas. You can treat for phosphates if you want, but that’s not likely to change anything. You could also just stop the process and maintain your FC on the high side (8–10ppm) and watch to see if your SWG can keep that up. You’ll want to get your CYA back up to 70ppm at some point.
Keep us posted.
I don’t see anything in the thread that would indicate a chemical problem.
I know you said the filter was clean, but have you taken it apart and soaked the filter elements to clean them rather than just hose them off? It’s work for sure but you might try elevating your chlorine back up to 16ppm and then shut off the pump and give the filter a good cleaning. For a cartridge filter, I recommend using trisodium phosphate (TSP) and bleach. TSP can be found in the paint cleaning section of Home Depot and it’s usually on the top shelf (Savogran is the brand name I use). Do not use the “alternative” TSP or environmentally friendly TSP....it’s not actually TSP. An alternative method is to soak them in automatic dishwasher detergent but you need to really rinse them off well.
Aside from that, I don’t have any other ideas. You can treat for phosphates if you want, but that’s not likely to change anything. You could also just stop the process and maintain your FC on the high side (8–10ppm) and watch to see if your SWG can keep that up. You’ll want to get your CYA back up to 70ppm at some point.
Keep us posted.
I have cleaned the filter a few times. The only significant pressure increase Ive seen is right around 18 psi (12 starting). This pressure increase was from the phosphates that were treated last week. its Down to zero now. pool got a tad cloudy, but it cleared up within a few hours.
Besides that, the pressure has maintained around 14 max.
I have soaked the filters it in a light acid bath for about 20 min this past summer. Didn't really notice any extra crud coming off of it.
Ive seen the TSP at Lowes. I can swing by there and get a box if you think it could help.
I was maintaining my FC at 5-6, running the cell at 80% for 20 hours a day this summer. From what Ive read, my cell produces 6.7 of FC in 24 hours at 100%.
Besides that, the pressure has maintained around 14 max.
I have soaked the filters it in a light acid bath for about 20 min this past summer. Didn't really notice any extra crud coming off of it.
Ive seen the TSP at Lowes. I can swing by there and get a box if you think it could help.
I was maintaining my FC at 5-6, running the cell at 80% for 20 hours a day this summer. From what Ive read, my cell produces 6.7 of FC in 24 hours at 100%.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,491
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You can clean the filter if you want to, it doesn’t sound like it’s necessary. TSP is always good to have on hand, it’s a very useful cleanser, especially for concrete. Just don’t get it on anything aluminum, aluminum + TSP is a bad combo.
Based on those SWG numbers, it would appear your pool is losing 4.5ppm/day. 2-4ppm is typical so you’re not that far outside the norm. If you can hold that value or do a little better than I think you’re fine. It does sound like your SWG is a bit under-sized for your pool though. If you have to run at 80% for 20hours/day, that’s a lot.
Honestly, I don’t think the SLAM is doing you any more good at this point. I’d let it ride for another day to see if the OCLT improves, but I’m guessing it won’t be much better. Then I’d work on balancing out the water, getting the CYA back up and enjoying the pool.
Since my cell is about maxed out and it’ll probably be needing replacement a lot sooner than later, what are your thoughts about using pucks to give me that extra FC I need?
That way I can possibly lower my cell output and hopefully extend its life.
Jandy says these cells are rated for 35k gallons, but I call BS from what I’ve read on this forum and I’m only at 16k gal
The pool does get full sunlight from about 10:30-5pm.
That way I can possibly lower my cell output and hopefully extend its life.
Jandy says these cells are rated for 35k gallons, but I call BS from what I’ve read on this forum and I’m only at 16k gal
The pool does get full sunlight from about 10:30-5pm.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,491
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If your CYA is low and you want to increase it, feel free to use 99% trichlor only pucks. That is what I’ve been doing for the past four weeks to get my CYA up. The acidity of the pucks will help to push down the pH too.
Yes, industry standards on SWGs are off by a factor of 2. You should compare by chlorine gas output, not their volume ratings.
Yes, industry standards on SWGs are off by a factor of 2. You should compare by chlorine gas output, not their volume ratings.