Busted Ball Valve

Jump to latest Follow Reply
J

jdebord

0
Aug 25, 2013
26
The far right ball valve in the attached picture is busted, and I can’t find an exact replacement. If i were to cut it out but reuse the part of the union attached to the pipe coming out of the concrete, would it thread together or are different brand unions not compatible? I don’t really have any room to cut and replace on the concrete side which is why I’m hoping it’s reusable.

74584BB8-E4C5-4094-98E7-B40B16608C86.jpeg
 
What is stamped on the handle? Usually you can identify the ball valve manufacture by the handle.
 
Not sure about S but I found this on FPT...

FPT stands for Female Pipe Taper, synonymous with Female National Pipe Taper or Female National Pipe Thread. You screw the tapered male end of the pipe into the female end. NPT, or National Pipe Taper, threads have a 60-degree thread angle. This type of thread, used primarily for pipes carrying low-pressure air or liquid, requires a pipe sealant.

FPT is not the same as NPTF, which stands for National Pipe Taper Fuel and is sometimes called the dryseal taper series. A dryseal thread is designed to crush when tightened and withstand greater heat or pressure than NPT pipe fittings are. With suitable sealant tape or compound, however, you can use these two thread types interchangeably.


@jimmythegreek @JamesW @RDspaguy any idea about the S type?
 
James got it. The S is a slip compression fit end and the fpt is female pipe threads. Order spares they all last 10 yrs tops. Might be a good time to cut it out and go jandy or pentair they can be rebuilt and last loooong time
 
I was just planning on cutting where the red line is below and rebuilding everything from the salt cell union through the valve body, reusing the union glued to the elbow coming out of the concrete. Are you suggesting an alternate approach to rebuild the entire manifold?

9BD8F389-48E6-4726-93A7-D2A703E2BDAA.jpeg
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I suggest if you have enough sticking out of the concrete if you were to cut just after the elbow on the concrete side then I would cut them all that way and rebuild with Jandy's and be done with it.
 
There is room under that 90* elbow to glue on from the look of it. Glue in a male threaded adapter first thing so if it ever has to be worked on again it doesnt have to be cut.
That said, I would think the union end of the valve would match up with another spears of the same size. I am sure they still make them, even if a different color.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jimmythegreek
Give me a pic of that area a little bigger let me see the pump. Take a 2nd pic with a tape measure showing the height from slab to elbow. I like both suggestions of male adapter at slab the threaded elbow and spread out for jandy valves, or going with couplings then spread. When u cut 90s out and need just a little more reach a sweep 90 works well they are larger radius overall
 
  • Like
Reactions: Flying Tivo and wireform

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply