Bonding issue

Thank you. Will do.

Very interesting.

I guess confused if it isn’t the pump where is the juice coming from? And it is only in the skimmer I assume because there is too much resistance once you go beyond that.
 
Thank you. Will do.

Very interesting.

I guess confused if it isn’t the pump where is the juice coming from? And it is only in the skimmer I assume because there is too much resistance once you go beyond that.

As I said in an earlier reply you may have high resistance on the ground in your main panel. Electricity follows path of least resistance. It should be going down ground wire. Instead it is going down bonding wire to skimmer.
 
Part of what Mike Holt writeups take you through in checking bonding is checking the resistance of the grounds for this reason. He also recommends using an analog multimeter meter rather than a digital for that type of checks.
 
Wood and plastic are insulators and don't get bonded. Concrete with rebar can conduct electricity and gets bonded.
 
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Sub and timer look clean.

Main panel may need CBs checked or replaced.

They rebuilt the panel a few years ago due to corrosion (main wouldn’t even shut all the lights off) and didn’t replace most of the CBs.

108489F9F62177-C01B-4093-B574-29CEF24914F2.jpegEAD52834-4145-495D-A40A-07A8395AEA37.jpeg816504E8-1305-4C18-9A9C-12C4C0D667D0.jpeg
 
Sub and timer look clean.

Main panel may need CBs checked or replaced.

They rebuilt the panel a few years ago due to corrosion (main wouldn’t even shut all the lights off) and didn’t replace most of the CBs.

View attachment 108489View attachment 108489View attachment 108490View attachment 108491


Someone needs to check me on this,
But to me, it looks like your sub panel is grounded wrong. The neutral and ground are tied together and this isn't allowed with a sub panel. The grounding and neutral should be isolated and only tied together at the main panel.

I don't know if that's causing your issue, but it's wrong if that's the case.

It's hard to see in the pictures. Maybe there's a separate ground wire coming in with the feed I'm not seeing. I don't see a screw to tie the neutral connection to the enclosure, so maybe I am mistaken.
 
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The neutral and ground are tied together and this isn't allowed with a sub panel. The grounding and neutral should be isolated and only tied together at the main panel.

I'm not seeing that. Looks like the grounds are all on the vertical bar in the upper left corner and the neutrals are on the horizontal bar above the breakers. I don't see anything tying those two together.
 
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It is hard to tell...but in that picture it looks like the blue tapcon screw is bonding the neutral bar to the box (screw behind the incoming neutral) It may just be the angle at which the picture is taken. Easiest way to tell is to check continuity between the box and neutral bar
 
Electrician left.

He checked everything. No corrosion.

Everything connected correctly.

Drove a grounding rod in the ground and checked bonding or whatever.

Checked the light even though it doesn’t need to be bonded.

He swapped over the twist lock and I will install the new pump and test for tingle tonight.

Will be nice to have two speeds.
 
Wow on high this is much quieter than the old one. On low it is really quiet.

Pump installed. Fresh cut. No tingle. Forgot last year it was tripping the breaker.

Had the store bench test it and they said pump was fine.

Got it back and installed and never tripped breaker again.

Leads me to think it was corrosion due to the bad seals.
 
And yes it has a wire nut
View attachment 108032
All of those wires with wire nuts should be directly connected to the motor terminals with proper wire ends. The wires that they are now connected to are test connections from the factory and were never intended to be used in the field. A little moisture coupled with that exposed conductor could be one source of your problem and is very dangerous.
 

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