Bonding issue

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doc8404

doc8404

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Sep 13, 2015
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Rome, NY
in case you can't see it in my signature, Radiant 30' round, 1.5 HP single stage pump.

Also have a pool light that was installed during the time of install. (EDIT: Just found the instructions for the light, PAL-2T2 light requires no bonding).

Steps are not installed (and plastic anyway).

Master electrician installed, grounded and bonded everything. Inspection certainly wasn't much.
Has a GFCI in the basement.

was swimming this afternoon with my son and I stuck my hand in the skimmer to clean it out and felt a tingle on a cut.
and i mean a slight tingle.
So slight i thought it might be the pressure from the water sucking by my hand.
I now know it wasn't.

We both got out of the pool.

Since I'm slow with electrical stuff, I decided to try the following.

Stand outside pool, stick hand in skimmer, no tingle.
Jump in pool, hand in pool, no tingle.
Jump in pool, hand in skimmer, tingle.
Shut off pump using switch on pump, no tingle.
Turn pump on, tingle.

Instead of continuing my backwoods trouble shooting, just short of throwing a toaster in, I figured I would google. Of course it lead me back to TFP.

I pulled the ground on the skimmer and on the pump and cleaned them real well.

Reattached and jumped back in the pool.

I turned the breaker off for the light for extra piece of mind but didn't troubleshoot after that.

I am 99% sure i didn't feel a tingle but at this point, I'm about going nuts.

Reading all the threads, this voltage could be from anywhere?
Since shutting the pump off lead to no tingle, is there something more I should do?

I believe it is bonded on 3-4 locations on the side of the pool (Al sides)

Thanks,
Rob
 
Last edited:
If you disconnect the bond wire at the skimmer and run the pump do you feel the tingle in the skimmer ?
 
It points to the pump leaking some current. Not enough to trip the GFCI but enough to feel the tingle.

You can open up the pump electrical connections and make sure there is no corrosion or water leakage. Confirm there is no connection between the bonding wire and the ground wire.

Have you tested the pump GFCI using the TEST button? Is the pump 120V or 240V?

You may want to bring the master electrician in who did the work to look things over and try and measure current on the bonding wire.

My guess is replacing the pump will get rid of the tingle.
 
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Warning!!! Do not disconnect the bond wire from anything and then stick your hand in the water. Since you possibly have a voltage issue already, it could be very dangerous.

Since you aren't versed in electrical, I suggest you contact someone who can troubleshoot the bonding and electrical systems.
 
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ajw22 said:
It points to the pump leaking some current. Not enough to trip the GFCI but enough to feel the tingle.

You can open up the pump electrical connections and make sure there is no corrosion or water leakage. Confirm there is no connection between the bonding wire and the ground wire.

Have you tested the pump GFCI using the TEST button? Is the pump 120V or 240V?

You may want to bring the master electrician in who did the work to look things over and try and measure current on the bonding wire.

My guess is replacing the pump will get rid of the tingle.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I tested the TEST switch but didn’t feel for the tingle. 120v.

Bet this has gone on for some time.

Seems to be safe we can still use the pool as long as the pump is off.
 
doc8404 said:
Seems to be safe we can still use the pool as long as the pump is off.
Click to expand...

It is really not safe to run the pump even with no one using the pool. You never know when the electrical leakage gets worse to the point of being dangerous for someone around the pool. The GFCI should sense it and trip but I am concerned the pump GFCI may be faulty.
 
ajw22 said:
It is really not safe to run the pump even with no one using the pool. You never know when the electrical leakage gets worse to the point of being dangerous for someone around the pool. The GFCI should sense it and trip but I am concerned the pump GFCI may be faulty.
Click to expand...

When you say pump gfci do you mean the one in the breaker panel in my basement?
 

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doc8404 said:
When you say pump gfci do you mean the one in the breaker panel in my basement?
Click to expand...

I don’t have a full picture of your wiring to really know. Something is suspect around your pump.

You really should not be using a human as an electrical meter. You need a sensitive meter to measure small voltage and currents that are causing the tingle.
 
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ajw22 said:
I don’t have a full picture of your wiring to really know. Something is suspect around your pump.

You really should not be using a human as an electrical meter. You need a sensitive meter to measure small voltage and currents that are causing the tingle.
Click to expand...
Tested twist lock outlet and it has 113v.

Turned off breaker in the basement and it’s dead.

Reset and it’s 113.

Hit TEST aim the same breaker and it’s dead.

Checking pump connections now.

On the right track?
 
Test voltage hot (black) to neutral (white).

Test voltage neutral to ground (green) with pump running.

Test voltage neutral to bonding wire with pump running.

Test voltage neutral to skimmer bonding point with pump running.

If you are not sure how to check voltages with pump running safely then time to call electrician.

I would check that the ground (green) wire connected at the pump is properly connected at the panel. I would check the resistance between the pump ground screw and the panel ground point.

The ground screw and the bonding lug are electrically connected together. If you have a high resistance on the ground then any current will flow on the bond wire instead of the ground. I would check where the main electrical panel is grounded and that there is no corrosion there.
 

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