Board Repair

Did you try pushing the handle center post down and turning?
Acturally I just went out to the pool equiptment again. Some of the hayward actuators have lock screws and some don't so I borrowed one and put on the valve coming from the pump and was able to turn it. So now I understand what ajw22 was telling me. Tomorrow I am going to address the situation again. I hope all my pipes are labelled well. I will open skimmers and main (1/2 way) and open the pool return and reconnect the load to the line. Thank you for checking. I am just trying to keep things going until parts arrive.
 
What an ABYSS. I started this project thinking I was just going to solder a relay terminal but step by step I got deeper into this project and I appreciate all the patience and advice I have received. The hole gets deeper. I just put in the new board.
1. "chorinator off" no cell power
2.check system pool bridge communication
3. My pump has been off about 10 days and it rattles a bit which it did not before
4. saw a little water leakage from the SWG (did I put valves in wrong position and cause high pressure?)

As an aside I toggled all actuators into the off electrical position
I opened the skimmer and main drain valve and the return valve. I think! Pictures include. Hard to take pictures in this situation

Edit

I just followed trouble shooting tips
1. 24 ac between 2 yellow wires
2. fuse good
3 wiring of rectifiers correct
4. this is a brand new board from a box in static paper with a seal. (please tell me its not the board I just bought non returnable on ebay).
 

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What an ABYSS. I started this project thinking I was just going to solder a relay terminal but step by step I got deeper into this project and I appreciate all the patience and advice I have received. The hole gets deeper. I just put in the new board.
1. "chorinator off" no cell power
One of the risks buying off of eBay although they should allow a return if the listing said it was working and it is not.

2.check system pool bridge communication
3. My pump has been off about 10 days and it rattles a bit which it did not before
4. saw a little water leakage from the SWG (did I put valves in wrong position and cause high pressure?)
Why are some of the valves at an angle, neither on or off? You need to point the off tab to either the pipe you want off or a location where there is no pipe.

As an aside I toggled all actuators into the off electrical position
I opened the skimmer and main drain valve and the return valve. I think! Pictures include. Hard to take pictures in this situation
 
One of the risks buying off of eBay although they should allow a return if the listing said it was working and it is not.


Why are some of the valves at an angle, neither on or off? You need to point the off tab to either the pipe you want off or a location where there is no pipe.
I fixed those valves. Is it possible the "no power is from a setting in the display and not a dead board"?
 
The board doesn't normally report "No Power" unless there is a failure and usually the trace/solder joint from K1.

Did the listing say it was "used" or for "For Parts"?

Post a picture of the backside of the board.
 
The board doesn't normally report "No Power" unless there is a failure and usually the trace/solder joint from K1.

Did the listing say it was "used" or for "For Parts"?

Post a picture of the backside of the board.
It was brand new. I looked at the back at that famous relay as my other one had that defect and more. But the board looks perfect (front and back) Listed as "new" actually " brand new still in factor sealed plastic"
 

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It was brand new. I looked at the back at that famous relay as my other one had that defect and more. But the board looks perfect (front and back) Listed as "new" actually " brand new still in factor sealed plastic"
and for what its worth it takes a minute or two for the message to appear. First I hear a relay click and then it appears.
 
Ok, then I would check the transformer/rectifier circuit for power.

First check for AC voltage on the yellow transformer leads connected to the board. Those should always be on.

If there is power, then next check the Red/Black leads for DC power. However, K1 needs to be on for that to happen so you will need to reset the SWG chlorinator in the diagnostics window and + button. Once you hear the K1 click, you can see if there is a voltage across Red and Black.
 
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Here is back of board. Its night here (mosquitos and all) but I respect you want to see it
 

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Ok, then I would check the transformer/rectifier circuit for power.

First check for AC voltage on the yellow transformer leads connected to the board. Those should always be on.

If there is power, then next check the Red/Black leads for DC power. However, K1 needs to be on for that to happen so you will need to reset the SWG chlorinator in the diagnostics window and + button. Once you hear the K1 click, you can see if there is a voltage across Red and Black.
I can do that in a Jiffy but can you explain once more exactly what I do in diagnostics window?
 
So when you click the menu button to get to the diagnostic menu, click > once and then + to restart the SWG cycle.
when I do that ie go into diagnostics and right click> I get "chlorinator off" "filter off" Then I push filter on and hit the + again and there is a countdown. I held my multimeter to black and red for about 20 seconds and then I hear the relay click. There is no voltage pre or post click. Could this be a rectifier issue? how do I explore further?
 
Do the yellow wires have power? If so, then yes, it is probably the rectifiers. Makes sense because of the short.
 
Do the yellow wires have power? If so, then yes, it is probably the rectifiers. Makes sense because of the short.
Yes the yellow gives me 24 v. Correct me if I am wrong. The only rectifiers are the ones off the board. I know from years ago there are ways to test rectifiers which I believe just contain 4 diodes. Any further advice? PS why does this make sense because of the short? I did forget to mention some times in the display I saw "communication error 2"
 
Yes, the large rectifiers attached to the metal case.

The short is very high current which fried the components on board but the large rectifiers are also in the current path.
 
I know this is getting kind of deep but I am going to try to figure out how to test the rectifiers. Would you happen to know what side is ac and dc? Im thinking and maybe incorrectily that if the red and black are supposed to be dc power than the 2 oranges should be ac 24 v. ??
 

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