Black Algae, Wire Brush, New Plaster

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Re: IC60 Cell Light Off

If you must have a test to confirm your CYA you can use the liquid stabilizer. Once introduced to the pool water it takes a short time to show. Circulation and quick brushing of the pool and you can test for it.

Realize that if you start with fresh water, 0 CYA, and you add a specific amount of CYA powder, it is in that water. As long as you dissolve it via a sock directly into the water instead of pouring into the skimmer, you should be able to test for it in 24 hours, if necessary.

There is no chemical reaction with CYA, so what you put in the water, is in there.

Take care.
 

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Reminder that PH test isn't valid when FC over 10, so don't add acid until after SLAM or unless you accidentally let FC drop below 10 at one point and run a PH test.

You're doing great on the testing learning curve. The color change in the FC is really until clear, so more light should only help you. A flashlight or fixed indoor light should be able to illuminate it enough for you to see when it goes clear if you are swirling enough between drops, and you should be able to tell when one more drop doesn't make it any clearer. The best way to be sure is to be sure you swirl each drop long enough so that the color is uniform and stable before dropping in another drop.

Video of FAS-DPD test here for you to see it again. Perhaps a white background would help you see the color change to clear better? And plenty of light, indoors is totally fine!

Lastly, are you keeping your test kit indoors between tests? Cool dark place? Or is it being left outside and/or in sun? Any refrigeration? Just trying to see if your chems could be fouled.
 
After asking another TFP expert to review the thread, he came up a few suggestions that I loved and wish to share here:

1. To verify we've got the correct gallons for your pool - can you measure the pool's dimensions and depths for us so we can run the math on them please?
2. Let's put the metal brush aside for the SLAM and can you bring out or buy a soft nylon brush and brush as often as your time allows - being sure to get all the corners, cracks, stairs, walls, and any other algae hiding places - soft brush = lowest risk = go crazy!
3. As long as CYA is still over 30, leave it alone for now and SLAM at current CYA [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. To save on FAS-DPD powder and drops, as soon as you're comfortable with the enpoint (clear) you can temporarily use a 5ml sample of water, counting each drop as 1FC instead of 0.5 FC. It will still be good enough for SLAM, plus you can test 2x as often and bring back up to or close to shock if SWG isn't keeping up
4. when you upgraded SWG, did they replace the whole SWG system or only the cell? Some SWG power supplies/controllers must be adjusted for a larger cell requiring more power. I'm not saying you have a problem, but given how important it is, at some point, research and verify the install was done 100% correctly and such

please share any questions/concerns you have - we're here to help you get this beast trouble free!!!
 
BattleOfYakima said:
Reminder that PH test isn't valid when FC over 10, so don't add acid until after SLAM or unless you accidentally let FC drop below 10 at one point and run a PH test.

You're doing great on the testing learning curve. The color change in the FC is really until clear, so more light should only help you. A flashlight or fixed indoor light should be able to illuminate it enough for you to see when it goes clear if you are swirling enough between drops, and you should be able to tell when one more drop doesn't make it any clearer. The best way to be sure is to be sure you swirl each drop long enough so that the color is uniform and stable before dropping in another drop.

Video of FAS-DPD test here for you to see it again. Perhaps a white background would help you see the color change to clear better? And plenty of light, indoors is totally fine!

Lastly, are you keeping your test kit indoors between tests? Cool dark place? Or is it being left outside and/or in sun? Any refrigeration? Just trying to see if your chems could be fouled.
Click to expand...

Thanks Yak!

The pH situation is understood, but I did add MA during the SLAM based on pool's track record of rising pH.

Kit is kept in a cool dark place indoors, but I definitely need one of those clear cylinders in the video. The cylinder that came with my kit is part of my problem.
 
I'm brushing with nylon twice a day. Metal brush is in storage because I haven't seen any black algae in quite some time.

I'll look for a 5ml cylinder today.

The IC 20 and the IC 60 SWG use the exact same power supply so I just unscrewed the old IC 20 from the plumbing, screwed the new IC 60 in its place and plugged it in.
 
In 3 hrs your swg should have made 2FC, which means you lost a total of 7FC in 3 hrs ... something is in that water or testing errors are major. Any testing questions" 1 heaping scoop, mix, drop, swirl, repeat until clear, one ,more drop to make sure it doesn't get clearer of pink, subtract 1, divide by 2 if using 10ml, that's fc, sound right? If so keep slamming
 

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