Below pool-level valve problem

eyeN

Member
May 16, 2021
5
Austin, TX
My pool equipment is below the water level. The return from the filter and heater runs to a 3-way diverter valve with an actuator to select pool or spa return. Both returns have a standard ball valve before they run underground. The diverter valve was broken during the last ice storm and the ball valve to the pool appears to be broken, as well. So, I need to replace both.

Has anyone tried using something like this 2" Jet Swet plug in a situation like this?

A pipe freeze kit seems like a bad / high-risk idea so close the the ground. I don't want to dig out this pipe if it bursts.

I don't know the model or size of the return fittings and some have eyelets on them, so plugs aren't a great option. I realize the pool level should only drop below the return jets, but I think I have the same exact problem on the suction side and that will require draining the whole pool and I won't be able to test my fixes (or my equipment for that matter) without filling the pool again.

Is there any other method or tool I can use to somehow stop the water flow to replace the ball valve without draining the pool?

Thanks,
ian
 
One idea is to unscrew your eyeballs in the returns in the pool and screw in a plug. See Link
You can most likely buy these screw plugs at Leslie's.
Also, I would replace the broken ball valve with a 2 way diverter valve as that is repairable.
Do you plan to replace your 3 way diverter valve or just repair it - you did not indicate if housing was cracked or was the seal just leaking. .
 
I do think plugs could work for the return side, but I'd like to try a solution that will work on the suction side, too.
I plan to replace the broken ball valve with another ball valve and unions. Repairable is great, but for the cost I could buy 2 or 3 really nice ball valves.
I can't tell if the housing is cracked or if it just the seal. I'd repair it if I knew, but I want to have the replacement on hand to make the fix quickly.
 
 
The Drain King referenced in that post seems like a good idea. I've read about bread packing, but not a fan of that idea—especially since the suction side will likely have more pressure.
 
My equipment is also 4'+ below pool level. When I do PVC work I have to plug the returns and skimmer with my winter plugs, pretty easy. The only thing that is hard is the main drain. The only time I had to work on it was to take off the cheap ball valve the builder put on and switch to a Jandy valve. In that case I had to swim down to the drain, unscrew cover and plug it.
 
My equipment is also 4'+ below pool level. When I do PVC work I have to plug the returns and skimmer with my winter plugs, pretty easy. The only thing that is hard is the main drain. The only time I had to work on it was to take off the cheap ball valve the builder put on and switch to a Jandy valve. In that case I had to swim down to the drain, unscrew cover and plug it.
Great info, thank you. I've never unscrewed the main drain cover and I'd be doing it mostly blind as the pool is super green at this point. I've had a horrible time getting any pros to even come out and look. The one that did hasn't returned to start the work, but has been stringing me along for weeks.
 

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I'd be doing it mostly blind as the pool is super green at this point. I've had a horrible time getting any pros to even come out and look. T
One idea is to rent a sump pump with suction from deep end and output to the shallow end. Then pour in LC and try to clear up the algae. You will need to net out debris. Not a perfect solution but it may clear up some of the water.
 
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