Advice on DIY valve replacment

[Cetanorak]

... use PlastAid to coat the small crack.

Thank you for the suggestion, I just placed an orde for PlastAid. Perhaps this spring/summer I'll look into unscrewing the main drain covers, block those pipes, block skimmers with Gizmos and replace the entire 3-valve suction-side manifold with Jandy valves.

 

[PoolGate]

Maybe I was misinterpreting the intended use of the PVC plug mentioned above. Was the idea to use that plug on the pipe of the main drain (once the drain cover is removed) at the deep end of the pool or plugging the PVC pipe under the valve at the pad, once the damaged valve has been cut out??

If the latter, that would mean cutting the pipe above/b

Thank you for the suggestion, I just placed an orde for PlastAid. Perhaps this spring/summer I'll look into unscrewing the main drain covers, block those pipes, block skimmers with Gizmos and replace the entire 3-valve suction-side manifold with Jandy valves.

I was talking about plugging the pipe at the pad after cutting off the ball valve. I believe you will be able to plug it with an internal plug and then get that plug through the valve and remove it after the new valves/plumbing are installed. You'd have to test this of course and see if you can get the plug out through the valve before attempting.

 

[generessler]

Just to complete the discussion of possibilities, one other way to go with plugs at the pad is to add 3 unions below the valves. So the sequence would be 1) cut away old manifold below valves; water is gushing! 2) quickly install plugs 3 ) dry and glue union bottoms 4) build whole manifold above unions 5) remove plugs; water is gushing! 6) quickly mate unions of new manifold (including pump). An advantage of this approach is that the whole manifold is removable forever, which could be handy. Otoh unions are leak opportunities, though that's a minimal risk.

Good luck with it. The strategy of waiting for warm water is imo good regardless of how you go!

 

[bradgray]

Just to complete the discussion of possibilities, one other way to go with plugs at the pad is to add 3 unions below the valves. So the sequence would be 1) cut away old manifold below valves; water is gushing! 2) quickly install plugs 3 ) dry and glue union bottoms 4) build whole manifold above unions 5) remove plugs; water is gushing! 6) quickly mate unions of new manifold (including pump). An advantage of this approach is that the whole manifold is removable forever, which could be handy. Otoh unions are leak opportunities, though that's a minimal risk.

Good luck with it. The strategy of waiting for warm water is imo good regardless of how you go!

Took me a moment to visualize that. A little round-about, but it would technically work.

I agree with more potential leak points. And putting unions together with moving water tends to make o-rings move.

Tricky. Doable.

If me, I'd swim and plug my MD. But that's coming from someone with a weighted vest and snorkle for these purposes.

 

[Cetanorak]

If me, I'd swim and plug my MD. But that's coming from someone with a weighted vest and snorkle for these purposes.

are you using a weighted vest that's designed specifically for diving? that sounds like a good idea.

 

[bradgray]

are you using a weighted vest that's designed specifically for diving? that sounds like a good idea.

Yes. It was too many years ago and I can't recall the website I used, but it looks like Amazon has some similar. Look for free-diving weighted vests.

 

[PoolGate]

are you using a weighted vest that's designed specifically for diving? that sounds like a good idea.

I actually don't think this will work unless you plan on taking the main drain grates off and using one of the insert plugs to block the drain under the grates. I just don't think just putting something over the drain is going to provide a water-tight seal. I would suggest try the inside pipe plug at the equipment pad and see if it will fit through the hole in the Jandy valve. The rubber is flexible so I think this will work.

 

[bradgray]

I actually don't think this will work unless you plan on taking the main drain grates off and using one of the insert plugs to block the drain under the grates. I just don't think just putting something over the drain is going to provide a water-tight seal. I would suggest try the inside pipe plug at the equipment pad and see if it will fit through the hole in the Jandy valve. The rubber is flexible so I think this will work.

I agree with Robert. If you're going to dive, you should plug the line.

This is what we are referring to.

Amazon.com

 

[Cetanorak]

I agree with Robert. If you're going to dive, you should plug the line.

This is what we are referring to.

Amazon.com

Yes that is what I’m thinking of doing…diving with the assistance of something weighted to allow me to remove the covers of both drains and then plugging.