Battling low chlorine levels all summer

[hensler74]

It doesn't matter what order you make your adjustments. I just suggested FC first so the chlorine would have more time to circulate prior to your OCLT test. However, you should have plenty of time. Adjusting pH will have no effect on FC. No sweat.

Thanks. You guys have been a great help. Not looking forward to getting up early tomorrow to do the before sunrise test but I have a feeling I am battling algae and will be starting a SLAM at some point this weekend so I should just get used to it.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Good luck! Keep us posted.

 

[hensler74]

Well here are the OCLT results from last night an this morning.

7/27 @ 8:44 PM
FC - 4.5
CC - 0.5

7/28 @ 6:37 AM
FC - 2
CC - 0.5

Looks like I will be doing my first SLAM ever.

 

[wireform]

Yes, slam away.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Make sure your CYA level is accurate. This is what your SLAM FC level will be based on. Your FC reagents will go fast during the SLAM. For SLAM level maintenance only, you can use a 5 mL water sample with one scoop of powder. Each drop will count as 1 ppm. During the day, UV will burn unbuffered FC fast. Just be aware of this as you move forward.

 

[hensler74]

Make sure your CYA level is accurate. This is what your SLAM FC level will be based on. Your FC reagents will go fast during the SLAM. For SLAM level maintenance only, you can use a 5 mL water sample with one scoop of powder. Each drop will count as 1 ppm. During the day, UV will burn unbuffered FC fast. Just be aware of this as you move forward.

I will check the CYA level again with my test kit before starting the SLAM. Guessing maybe I should order some more FC reagents...LOL

 

[SecoSteve]

I see your Salt levels don't match in your previous post.

Your SWG can be calibrated to match your actual salt level. If your certain you've done the K-1766 salt test correctly, you can adjust the SWG to match. The process is very easy....

Press the “Salinity” button and hold it until it beeps 3 times.

The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds.

Release the button after the 3rd beep. Press and release the “Temperature “ button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen.

The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading.

When the proper reading is reached press the “Temperature” button within 5 seconds to store it in memory.

 

[reggiehammond]

Once you complete your SLAM, I've found that full sun in our neck of the woods requires CYA of 70 minimum, 80 better.

For liquid chlorine - your easiest bet is Walmart - Pool Essentials brand. It's $5.50 a jug and available in garden section.

 

[PoolStored]

Use 5ml during SLAM, but use 10ml sample FC for OCTLs.

 

[hensler74]

I see your Salt levels don't match in your previous post.

Your SWG can be calibrated to match your actual salt level. If your certain you've done the K-1766 salt test correctly, you can adjust the SWG to match. The process is very easy....

Press the “Salinity” button and hold it until it beeps 3 times.

The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds.

Release the button after the 3rd beep. Press and release the “Temperature “ button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen.

The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading.

When the proper reading is reached press the “Temperature” button within 5 seconds to store it in memory.

I am not sure which test to go by as I have the digital tester that was 3440 and then the K-1766 which I believe I did correctly come back at 3800. I followed the instructions 10 mL fill, 1 drop R-0630 and it turned yellow, then 19 drops of R-0718 till milky salmon color all done using the SpeedStir. Guess I can test again to make sure. I also believe if 3800 is correct that is above the Jandy recommendation for salt but right now I just want to take care of the algae issue.

 

[reggiehammond]

I am not sure which test to go by as I have the digital tester that was 3440 and then the K-1766 which I believe I did correctly come back at 3800. I followed the instructions 10 mL fill, 1 drop R-0630 and it turned yellow, then 19 drops of R-0718 till milky salmon color all done using the SpeedStir. Guess I can test again to make sure. I also believe if 3800 is correct that is above the Jandy recommendation for salt but right now I just want to take care of the algae issue.

Trust the K-1766. Drop based tests are the gold standard.

 

[hensler74]

Once you complete your SLAM, I've found that full sun in our neck of the woods requires CYA of 70 minimum, 80 better.

For liquid chlorine - your easiest bet is Walmart - Pool Essentials brand. It's $5.50 a jug and available in garden section.

yes after the SLAM will get the CYA up to 70-80 figured to leave it as is for the SLAM to not have to keep the FC so high.
Walmart is where I have been getting the liquid chlorine to try holding it at 5 until I got all my proper test kits in.

 

[hensler74]

I will be starting my SLAM in a while and have some questions.
1. My water is already very clear and I only see algae on the walls in the shallow area’s every few days. So the question is how will I know when the process is complete? I am guessing when the FC starts to hold steady at the SLAM level without having to add liquid chlorine as often?
2. When should I do another OCLT? Again guessing when the FC level starts to hold steady with little loss?
3. I know because of my first OCLT there is algae because I lost 2.5 ppm overnight . Other than the slight algae found every few days the pool looks great.
Just looking for help as this is my first SLAM to ever do.
Picture of the pool as it looks right now.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

So the question is how will I know when the process is complete? I am guessing when the FC starts to hold steady at the SLAM level without having to add liquid chlorine as often?

Pretty much this.

There's really no straight answer. I've only had to go through the process a couple times and it was for minor bouts of algae. Each time I completed the SLAM within 2-3 days. As you get into your testing pattern, you'll be able to monitor FC loss and make adjustments as needed.

 

[hensler74]

Pretty much this.

There's really no straight answer. I've only had to go through the process a couple times and it was for minor bouts of algae. Each time I completed the SLAM within 2-3 days. As you get into your testing pattern, you'll be able to monitor FC loss and make adjustments as needed.

Thanks. I am hoping this will be a minor SLAM but from reading lots of post on here I can tell you never really know until it is done.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

SLAMming a plaster pool is a little more simple than vinyl. Places to check for algae are behind the light, the main drain grates (pool/spa), and the skimmer/backside skimmer door. I ran my FC levels a little high to cover any test discrepancies.

 

[hensler74]

SLAMming a plaster pool is a little more simple than vinyl. Places to check for algae are behind the light, the main drain grates (pool/spa), and the skimmer/backside skimmer door. I ran my FC levels a little high to cover any test discrepancies.

We just got done plugging and cleaning main drains in the pool guess I need to do the spa too as I forgot about those. Brushed and scrubbed the entire pool, skimmers and skimmer doors. Still need to pull the lights and scrub them. Have family over right now and they kind of are stopping me from starting the SLAM as they all got straight in the pool. Will start it a little late tonight.

 

[hensler74]

So testing my Ph and it is a 7.0 am I ok to go ahead and start the SLAM or should I raise it to 7.2? I know the process says to be between 7.2-7.5 so just don’t want to mess up.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

7.0 is fine...SLAM-ON.

 

[hensler74]

7.0 is fine...SLAM-ON.

Thanks for the quick response SLAMMING away