Bad Weekend, starting over

[genmacpool]

Ok, I ran and had posted some test results these weekend, posted the results and started the SLAM process.

Then, things didn't going according to plan, we had bad weather, pump problems, etc, - life happens! Good thing is the kids where able to get in the pool a bit around the weather and had a fun.

So this morning I am ready to get this all figured out, I reran my tests are here are the results:

FC 18
CC 0
TA 7
CYA 30
pH 7.8

So I am not sure where what should be my next steps. Looks like the FC is high? I am not sure of the relationship between FC and CC and why one would be so high and the other so low.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or comments

 

[RonsPlc]

What does your pool look like? Is it clear, and clean?
CC 0 means that your Chlorine is not busy killing anything in your pool... which is a GOOD thing.
Sunlight will bring your FC down given a little bit of time. Just don't let it drop below your target level for your CYA.

 

[zea3]

CC stands for combined chloramines. Combined chloramines are the byproduct of chlorine oxidation. They cause the strong chlorine smell associated with pools. Having 0 CC is a good thing.

Plug your test results into PoolMath. It will tell you how much chlorine you need and what your FC level for the slam should be. If your FC is higher than recommended just let it come down on its own, but make sure you stay at slam level until the process is completed.

 

[genmacpool]

The pool is not totally clear, it has a slightly milky look to it.

If I am reading the charts correctly, since I have a salt water pool my CYA level should be about 70, is that correct? Since its only at 30 do I need to get that up?

Also, I have been sweeping the pool and running the robotic cleaner trying to clean up whats left on the pool bottom. Its not bad on the bottom, but definitely a little something still in the pool, not sure what it is, when it settles after brushing it looks almost like sand, but I don't think it could be that because we don't have any sand around the pool.

 

[RonsPlc]

I am not an expert with a SWG... but to prevent you from burning out your unit... here is what I would do...

Keep your SWG turned off for now, and continue the SLAM until everything is CLEAR, (not milky).
I would keep your CYA at this level until you are finished with the slam, (you will need less bleach that way), then bump it and start the SWG once your SLAM is finished, and the water is clear.

Like I said, I am not an expert with a SWG (I run a stenner with 12.5% bleach), but If I have given you any bad advice, there will be an expert here to correct me.

The stuff at the bottom sounds like it may be dead algae keep vacuuming.

 

[genmacpool]

Thank you! Will turn off the chlorinator and continue the SLAM.

What do you mean by "burning out your unit" - are you referring to the pump?

 

[zea3]

RonsPlc is correct. Continue to slam the pool until the process is complete. You can review the process SLAM Process if needed. The stuff on the pool floor is dead algae. It will continue to die off and drop to the floor until the process is complete, so keep vacuuming it up.

EDIT: SWG cells have a limit to the amount of chlorine it can produce over its lifetime. He is referring to the fact that running an SWG until 24/7 during a slam will shorten the life of the cell. Since SWG cells are designed to add small amounts of chlorine slowly they do not really help during the slam process so we recommend people turn them off to save wear and tear on the cell.

 

[genmacpool]

Got it. I will do I overnight FC loss test tonight.

I am wondering this could be related to the pump problems I was having this weekend?

Over the weekend the pump started shutting down after running from 5 to 20 minutes and I could not keep it going.

This morning just to try something different, I turned the cell off and it has been running for 3 hours.

 

[genmacpool]

So I ran the overnight test and my FC level stayed the same (at 10) but the water is still a bit cloudy (but WAY better than it was 2 days ago). I would think by tomorrow is will be pretty much all clear if in continues on this path.

I am continuing to sweep the pool and the robotic cleaner is running.

So at this point should I just leave everything as is or should I go ahead and run the other tests and get the readings and adjust those levels as needed.

 

[Jezza]

No don't worry about any of the other levels. Keep the SLAM going until your water is crystal clear.

 

[Rollercoastr]

Genmac, your signature lists the brand of filter you have, but not the type. If you specify whether yours is a cartridge, DE or sand filter, that may help with advice on getting and keeping your water clear.

 

[genmacpool]

Sorry about that. I have updated the signature. It is a sand filter.

 

[drharris]

It will eventually clear. There are a few strategies you could use to maybe make it faster, maybe not. Time is the main thing.

1. Use DE in your sand filter to add a bit of extra filtration. If your pool is cloudy, be aware this could cause your pressure to rapidly shoot up, requiring several backwash cycles. But it does seem to help many people near the end of a SLAM.

2. Deep clean your sand filter. Speaks for itself.

3. Instead of using the skimmer, keep a vacuum connected through your skimmer and leave it near the bottom of the pool away from the drain. The point is to allow more circulation through the filter from the deep end, instead of just relying on the main drain to do it. Just keep a close eye to make sure something doesn't happen to make the pump struggle.

 

[Rollercoastr]

Thanks. That's not surprising, because sand filters are the slowest to clear water when it's the stage you're describing. Have you considered adding some DE? Here's a brief article describing what-and-how:

Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter

Note the part about monitoring pressure. You'll need to be able to watch pressure in the early stages to make sure the DE doesn't restrict flow. I use DE in my sand filter on a long-term basis. In my experience, DE and sand gives me a great combo of performance and low maintenance.

- - - Updated - - -

<---- typing too slowly again...

 

[genmacpool]

Thanks for the DE info! So if I am reading this correctly I should backwash the filter and then add the DE? Then its is best to add it each time I backwash?

Also, I see lowes as a Clorox DE for pools, that OK?

One last question, should I wait until water is totally clear and my FC levels are back in range (3-5 if I am reading the charts correctly) until I retest everything else and start adjusting?

 

[Rollercoastr]

Yep, the Clorox brand will work. Looks to be about $5 more than I paid last fall, but as long as it's pool and not garden DE, you're good. That box represents a lifetime supply for a sand filter owner. If you know of any friends or neighbors with a DE filter, ask for a donation instead of buying the box.

Backwashing will wash away the DE. Make a point to measure how much you add to increase 1 PSI. That will simplify future additions. (it's a bigger deal for me because my skimmer is nowhere near my filter/gauge)

I'm not sure I understand your last question. Is that in reference to ending your SLAM, or adding DE?

 

[drharris]

Yes, add DE after each backwash - it will mostly go away in the backwash. And yes, Clorox pool DE is what I use. As long as it's for pools it's what you want. It's a super big box, will last you many, many years. Just be careful with the pressure while finishing the SLAM.

For other adjustments, once FC drops below 10 you can start testing/adjusting pH, and then run a full set of tests to see where to go next. You'll probably need to get CYA up to SWG levels, and everything else should be good.