Pretty sure that was the polite way of saying I messed something up, which I did. I misread the instructions and multiplied by 4 instead of 10.
Correctly calculated TA is 120.
Backyard #3 in <2years
- Thread starter kingstar
- Start date
Pretty sure that was the polite way of saying I messed something up, which I did. I misread the instructions and multiplied by 4 instead of 10.
Correctly calculated TA is 120.
I think its a lovely improvement to your yard and I especially like the gabion wall.
Your CH is starting out *almost* ideal. Being in Mesa your CH will probably climb faster than any place else, but remember you can also harness rain water to top off the pool and save the wear and tear on the water softener.
Did you put a dog run in on the side of the house for the puppy?
Maddie
Your CH is starting out *almost* ideal. Being in Mesa your CH will probably climb faster than any place else, but remember you can also harness rain water to top off the pool and save the wear and tear on the water softener.
Did you put a dog run in on the side of the house for the puppy?
Maddie
I think its a lovely improvement to your yard and I especially like the gabion wall.
Your CH is starting out *almost* ideal. Being in Mesa your CH will probably climb faster than any place else, but remember you can also harness rain water to top off the pool and save the wear and tear on the water softener.
Did you put a dog run in on the side of the house for the puppy?
Maddie
Rain water? What’s that?
I just finished up the fencing for a dog run and moved the doggy door, which also solves some of the code issues with its previous location. I still need to address the sliding door and garage service door.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,449
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The SWCG is vertical; however, the orientation (all writing upside down) means the water flows in the top and out the bottom. In the manual it doesn't say anything explicitly about being right side up (flow in the bottom and out the top) when oriented vertically, but all of the pictures show it that way. I can't think of any reason that would matter, but I want to be sure. I'll be controlling it through the EasyTouch 8, so being able to easily read the text doesn't matter that much.
Your SWG is positioned properly for the flow switch. The flow switch needs to be positioned before the cell in the flow, which it is. That is why your cell labels are upside down. If your water flowed up the pipe then the cell would be reversed.
I knew that it was correct for the water flow direction. I was wondering if there was a problem with it being upside down. A few weeks ago I convinced myself that it wouldn’t matter, but I don’t remember why at the moment. The only issue I could think of is hydrogen bubbles rising the wrong direction, but the water flow should be high enough to keep that from happening.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,351
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The only issue with that direction is in the rare occurrence your flow switch fails, it could fall down and make contact such that it fails ON. Which would not be a good thing.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,449
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Installation manual is here --> https://pentairpool.com/~/media/websites/pool/downloads/sanitizers/manuals/intellichlor_salt_chlorine_generator_model_ic15_installation_users_guide_english_french.pdf
See PDF pages 10 - 11. It shows the preferred mounting being vertical with an upward flow. No where does it say not to mount it with a downward flow.
Can you post a zoomed out pic of where that pipe flows from he heater to the SWG? Can you have the builder mount the SWG in a better place after the heater?
That triggered the memory. I was ok with it because the EasyTouch is controlling the pump and chlorinator, so there is very little risk that it would try to turn on the chlorinator without waterflow if the switch had failed.
Here are some zoomed out pictures. I don't really see a better spot for it. The heater will be bypassed most of the time. I may have a small amount of flow through it just to prevent stagnant water. They still need to re-plumb the Quad DE filter as it is reversed at the moment. They also need to use the appropriate backflush valve for this filter. I may not use the backflush valve beyond just flushing off as much as possible before opening and cleaning it. I will see.
I was looking through the manual for the auto fill valve I have (Pentair T40FB) and noticed this in the manual.
I remembered that the pipe wasn't straight and has at least two 90° elbows. How concerned should I be about this? Shotcrete is already done and a pretty substantial wall is over that area now.
I remembered that the pipe wasn't straight and has at least two 90° elbows. How concerned should I be about this? Shotcrete is already done and a pretty substantial wall is over that area now.
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,449
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Your pics did not come through.
___________
I have been looking at your SWG position. I think it should be moved to the main feed pipe in the middle which has an up flow. That will properly orient the IC60 in a vertical position.
The other benefit is you will get chlorinated water to all of your water features. The way it is currently setup the water to your water feature is not being chlorinated. I would be concerned that you would get algae growth in some corners of your water features. I don't know of any issue with sending chlorinated water to your water features.
The pictures should be working now.
That center pipe only has water coming up that direction when the water is passing through the heater. 99.9% of the time it will be coming straight out of the filter and won't be coming up the pipe. I will probably adjust the valve to have some amount of flow going through the heater at all times to prevent stagnant water and the water features will be automated. I plan to have some amount of time each day go through the water features to prevent them from having stagnant water as well. They are going to be doing some re-plumbing to fix the incorrect water flow direction through the Quad DE filter, so I'll see what can be done. I'm at peace with where it is now given the small risk of the flow switch failing open because of the automation through the EasyTouch, but if it can be changed without compromising something else, I will have them do that.
That center pipe only has water coming up that direction when the water is passing through the heater. 99.9% of the time it will be coming straight out of the filter and won't be coming up the pipe. I will probably adjust the valve to have some amount of flow going through the heater at all times to prevent stagnant water and the water features will be automated. I plan to have some amount of time each day go through the water features to prevent them from having stagnant water as well. They are going to be doing some re-plumbing to fix the incorrect water flow direction through the Quad DE filter, so I'll see what can be done. I'm at peace with where it is now given the small risk of the flow switch failing open because of the automation through the EasyTouch, but if it can be changed without compromising something else, I will have them do that.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,449
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I can't see how the filter out goes directly to the SWG pipe in the pics.
I see no reason for your heater bypass being that complicated. There can be a simple heater bypass using one Jandy valve and a check valve that bridges the heater water input to the output. After the heater bypass should be the SWG that then distributes the filtered, heated if on, and chlorinated water to the returns and water features. You have some screwy plumbing being done.
I also don't understand why you would have the heater bypassed 99% of the time. As long as you have normal water chemistry, let the water flow through the heater. It does not wear out the heater and when you want heat your automation turns on the heat without any valves needing to be turned.
Re: Backyard #3 in <2years
Bypassing the heater has been suggested on a bunch of other builds that I've read through to help reduce flow restrictions. I actually thought it was a pretty elegant way to bypass the filter. Ignoring that the flow is wrong through the Quad DE filter (they originally had the other DE filter type and I had them change it) the red path shows the water flow when bypassing the heater and the blue line shows the path when going through it. The pink line is the combined path. The combined path goes through the SWCG (then to 4 looped returns) and a separate return to drive the venturi skimmer.
- - - Updated - - -
This is my most pressing concern, any thoughts on this? I've contacted the PB about it and they are looking into it.
Bypassing the heater has been suggested on a bunch of other builds that I've read through to help reduce flow restrictions. I actually thought it was a pretty elegant way to bypass the filter. Ignoring that the flow is wrong through the Quad DE filter (they originally had the other DE filter type and I had them change it) the red path shows the water flow when bypassing the heater and the blue line shows the path when going through it. The pink line is the combined path. The combined path goes through the SWCG (then to 4 looped returns) and a separate return to drive the venturi skimmer.
- - - Updated - - -
I was looking through the manual for the auto fill valve I have (Pentair T40FB) and noticed this in the manual.
I remembered that the pipe wasn't straight and has at least two 90° elbows. How concerned should I be about this? Shotcrete is already done and a pretty substantial wall is over that area now.
This is my most pressing concern, any thoughts on this? I've contacted the PB about it and they are looking into it.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,449
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Re: Backyard #3 in <2years
Where is there a check valve to prevent water flowing through the blue path to the heater when the valve is open to the red path? You will have a split in the water flow at the red/blue Y and probably create more flow restrictions then what you were trying to eliminate. Plus whenever you want to use your heater you have to come outside and manually turn the valve.
I think you have over engineered this. The flow restriction from the heater coil is not a big issue to worry about. The heater bypass should be there to isolate the heater when your water PH is bad or when you remove the heater for repair.
Where is there a check valve to prevent water flowing through the blue path to the heater when the valve is open to the red path? You will have a split in the water flow at the red/blue Y and probably create more flow restrictions then what you were trying to eliminate. Plus whenever you want to use your heater you have to come outside and manually turn the valve.
I think you have over engineered this. The flow restriction from the heater coil is not a big issue to worry about. The heater bypass should be there to isolate the heater when your water PH is bad or when you remove the heater for repair.
Bypassing the heater has been suggested on a bunch of other builds that I've read through to help reduce flow restrictions. I actually thought it was a pretty elegant way to bypass the filter. Ignoring that the flow is wrong through the Quad DE filter (they originally had the other DE filter type and I had them change it) the red path shows the water flow when bypassing the heater and the blue line shows the path when going through it. The pink line is the combined path. The combined path goes through the SWCG (then to 4 looped returns) and a separate return to drive the venturi skimmer.
- - - Updated - - -
This is my most pressing concern, any thoughts on this? I've contacted the PB about it and they are looking into it.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,449
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Re: Backyard #3 in <2years
Is there a check valve in the upflow pipe preventing the red water flow from going down instead of up?
I don't see your water flow working the way you expect. You are splitting water flows without check valves and water will flow both ways at Y and T junctions if there are not valves to prevent it.
View attachment 88758
Is there a check valve in the upflow pipe preventing the red water flow from going down instead of up?
I don't see your water flow working the way you expect. You are splitting water flows without check valves and water will flow both ways at Y and T junctions if there are not valves to prevent it.
View attachment 88758
There are no check valves. With the valve open, the pressure at the T leading to the heater and the T where the heater water returns will be at the same pressure and therefore shouldn't have any flow (or very little) through it. As you close the valve, the pressure differential will begin to increase and water will begin to flow through the heater. Once the valve is closed there is no other path for the water to go. In the open state the equalized pressure will keep water from flowing through it and in the closed state there is no other path than through the heater.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,449
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I don't think it will work that way. You will get water flowing equally through both loops.
The pressure will not stay equal. The water flowing up the blue return pipe will create a venturi effect on the air below and suck the air and eventually water up through the heater.
Running with the heater in the loop should work.
That plumbing will neither let you isolate the heater if your water PH is bad or if you need to repair the heater. It defeats the primary reasons to have a heater bypass.
I should have chosen the colors backwards. The blue is the water that goes through the heater. In the bypassed state (99.9% of the time) the red flow will come hit the T at the end and can either go up or down. It will go up because the pressure coming up from the blue flow will be equal to the pressure at the first T. If there is a small amount of flow through the heater that is fine and I will probably adjust the valve to ensure a small amount of flow. To operate the heater, I will close the valve. This will force all of the flow to follow the blue path. There can't be an Venturi action at that T because the valve will be closed and there will be nowhere to pull water from. For me the primary reason for the bypass was to reduce the flow restriction and this accomplishes that. I understand what you are saying about not being able to totally isolate the heater, but I am satisfied with how they have it plumbed for my needs. This may all change when they replumb to correct for the Quad DE.
However, I am still interested in hearing the forums thoughts on having elbows in the equalizer pipe coming from the auto leveler.
However, I am still interested in hearing the forums thoughts on having elbows in the equalizer pipe coming from the auto leveler.
How to you go about programming a delay like this? Also, my deck jets tend to run all over the place until the valve completely switches to them. Is there a way such that when I turn on the water features it will stop the pump, move the valve to the appropriate setting, and then turn the pump back on?