Backyard #3 in <2years

Aug 14, 2018
43
Mesa, AZ
Hello All,

I have to say that this site is amazing and has been invaluable to me as we have started our pool. We moved into our new house/new build in February 2017. Through a series of poor decisions we are on our 3rd major version of our backyard. We had always planned to do a pool, eventually, so our first version was mostly quarter/minus rock throughout the yard with some fake grass. That ended up being very messy and was being tracked into the house. Version 2 replaced most of this with travertine. At this point, I built a large custom pergola (pics below). The southern exposure and dog waste smells made the fake grass extremely unpleasant. I tried everything to get rid of the smell, but eventually we replaced the fake grass with real grass. This solved the smell problem; however, I don't count this as a version change because it didn't change the look. Both my wife and I grew up with swimming pools and decided we wanted to do the pool now rather than later to give our kids the same experience and to give them something to do outside.

Pool Specs:
15,551 gallons
14.5'x26' rectangle
5' baja shelf
4' to 7' depth
36" Sheer Decent Water Fall
Qty. 2 Deck Jets
Salt Water
Softened City Water for Refill

Equipment:
Pump - Pentair VSF (3.0HP)
Filter - Pentair Quad DE 60 with Hayward Separation Tank (Not sure if I will backflush, but backflush can return to pool or be discharged.)
Sanitation: Pentair Intellichlor IC40
Automation: Pentair EasyTouch 8 with ScreenLogic 2
Heater: Pentair Mastertemp 400
Skimmer: Paramount Paraskim V venturi skimmer
Automatic Water Leveler: Pentair T40
Taylor K-2006 Test Kit (need to get the salt tester)

Here is version 1 of the yard.
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Version 2
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Version 2 with Pergola
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Start of version 3

Unfortunately, we had to pull up a whole bunch of travertine and the pavers down our driveway to ensure that they didn't get broken or ruined during the dig. However, this allowed for easier running of the soft water tap and for gas/electrical/etc.

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Dig started.
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Dig finished, but the left bench in deep-end collapsed during a storm. They had left drain for the downspout pointing right at the end of the pool, so all of the water just poured over the edge.

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Plumbing going in. Noticed that they have the wrong skimmer. This is not a venturi since it doesn't have any return water to it. They are replacing with the correct one.
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They have all of the returns hooked together as a loop, which is correct from what I have read here.
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I think they did a good job at the equipment, except, that they put in the wrong filter. I specifically wanted the Quad DE filter. They have replaced the filter; however, the Quad DE has the Input and Output swapped, so this will have to be re-plumbed. I like that they put in a valve that will effective cut any water flowing through the heater. They also plumbed the DE separation tank to have the water return to the pool or out to waste.

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Quad DE with incorrect water direction.
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One question I have is about a check valve. They don't have anything between the heater and the SWCG. There is quite a bit of distance between the two and one isn't required in the manual. An additional consideration to this is that I plan to add in the IntelliPh, which will inject just before the SWCG. I was wondering about how smart the EasyTouch 8 is when combined with the Intelliflow pump, IntelliChlor, and IntelliPh. For instance, is it smart enough to continue running the pump for some amount of time after it shuts off the IntelliChlor or IntelliPh? If not, I was thinking that I could program in a short amount of pump time at the end of my pumping sessions that is at a low enough flow rate not to trigger the flow switch in the IntelliChlor. This should also work for the IntelliPh since it uses the flow switch from the IntelliChlor. The last option would be to redo the leg where the IntelliChlor is and move it down a bit and put in a check valve. Thoughts on this?

Rebar and connection to soft water loop. They also put in the wrong automatic water leveler, so this is being changed as well. I've also asked them to move it so that it is back by the rest of the equipment so that there will be less things in the decking.

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Lastly, here is a pic of what it should look like. We didn't end up getting the fountains in the baja shelf.
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Last edited:
In the ET you can use a Delay cycle that will have the pump run X minutes after all items are off. Such as heater, IC, Intelliph, etc. That takes care of flushing everything with plain water.
 
Looks like you have everything under control, my only concern is those blue handled ball valves. The sun and heat here will chew those up, and will eventually fail. Talk to your PB about changing those out to better ones. :cheers:
 
Looks like you have everything under control, my only concern is those blue handled ball valves. The sun and heat here will chew those up, and will eventually fail. Talk to your PB about changing those out to better ones. :cheers:

Agree. It appears the pool equipment will be in the sun. Unless you plan to fully shade it, the ball valves will fail very quickly.
 
For up to 1.5", the Jandy never lubes. You have a couple already. They make two ways.

For smaller valves, a union type valve is better so it can be replaced.

The issue with the blue ones you have is the handle will get UV destroyed and fail. The ball also tends to seize up when not moved very often.
 

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I have a couple of questions about the plumbing.


  1. How important is it to have the straight run of pipe 5X the diameter leading into the pump? The manual shows that for 2" pipe there should be a straight run of 10" prior to the pump. There is a 3-way valve just prior to the pump inlet and measuring from the end of that valve to the pump inlet is only about 6".
  2. Can the IC40 SWCG be mounted upside down. The way the flow is in my picture above the water will flow into the top of the chlorinator and out the bottom. There is nothing in the manual that specifically says you can't do that, but the pictures all show it right side up.
 
1. Not all that important. It has to do with getting sufficient flow into the pump at high rates. We have not seen any issues with 2" suction lines.

2. By upside down do you mean vertical? It is ok for the SWCG to be installed vertically. I believe it shows the proper orientation in the installation manual.
 
2. By upside down do you mean vertical? It is ok for the SWCG to be installed vertically. I believe it shows the proper orientation in the installation manual.

The SWCG is vertical; however, the orientation (all writing upside down) means the water flows in the top and out the bottom. In the manual it doesn't say anything explicitly about being right side up (flow in the bottom and out the top) when oriented vertically, but all of the pictures show it that way. I can't think of any reason that would matter, but I want to be sure. I'll be controlling it through the EasyTouch 8, so being able to easily read the text doesn't matter that much.

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After some thought, the reason you want the water to flow from the bottom to the top of the SWCG is related to the flow switch. If, by chance, your flow switch breaks, as you show the SWCG orientation above, the switch could fail closed. If the water is flowing up, a failed flow switch would fail open.
 
After some thought, the reason you want the water to flow from the bottom to the top of the SWCG is related to the flow switch. If, by chance, your flow switch breaks, as you show the SWCG orientation above, the switch could fail closed. If the water is flowing up, a failed flow switch would fail open.

Which would mean the cell could potentially turn on without water flow? There would have to be a bunch of other things go wrong since the pump and SWCG are all being controlled by the EasyTouch for that to happen. I’m going to put in a call to Pentair Monday to see what their official response is.
 
So they came out and did the shotcrete today. Everything looks good as far as I can tell except that at the bottom transition from one of the side walls to the floor there are some cracks (1st picture running horizontally). Should I be worried about these?

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So, I was measuring my tap water today to get an idea of what the water will be like going into the pool once we start filling.

TA = 48ppm
Ph = 7.4
CH = 220ppm

We have an auto-filler that is connected to our water softner. I tested this water and confirmed that there is no measurable CH in this water.
 
Good. I am curious. What test measures TA to that level of resolution?

Remember, a water softener does not remove TA. Do your acid demand is not reduced.
 

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