Aquarite SWG - Passes pool store tests, but not working

[kolcun]

Hi All,

End of last year my Aquarite T9 was working fine. This year I'm running into some issues
The issue I experience is that I'm getting both Check Salt and Inspect Cell solid lights after turning on the system.

I can replicate with the following procedure:

1. Turn on the generator (currently set to 40 , same occurs when using super-chlorinate)
2. After a short time, I can hear a relay click, and the instant-salt reading starts. (Generating light is on)
3. Initially high, it climbs down and steadies around 2900 (sometimes bounces to 3000)
4. After about 20s or 30s, the relay clicks off, instant salt level goes to 0 and the Check Salt and Inspect Cell lights go solid.

I took the cell to the pool store, they have a Hayward specific tester, and my cell passed the test.
No other details other than pass/fail.
While in the test rig, you can see the cell plates, and I could see bubbling coming from the plates.

I haven't had any issues with my control panel in the past.

Any suggestions on what I can do as a next step in troubleshooting?
Any other data I can provide?

Thank you very much!

FC 3.6
CC 0
PH 7.5
TA 90
CYA 24
Salt 3000

Aquarite unit AQR-XL-CUL Serial: 3A1005-1025465
Cell T-CELL-9 Serial: 3E1005-2055603
I've had the cell 5 years, it's older than that though (bought house with pool)

Thanks.

 

[Tanner M]

I would guess it is a problem at the panel. There is a little current limiter that burns up that is soldered onto the board. The part number for it is digi key 570-1062-ND. Do a little search around the forum and you will find that the problem is pretty common. It can be fixed by soldering a new one in or replacing the board.

 

[kolcun]

During the time when it is generating, the diagnostic shows that it’s around 3.4A 26.5V.

Does this help narrow it down at all?

 

[Tanner M]

It could be an intermittent problem. I would take a look at it to be sure and if it looks burnt it would be a good place to start.

 

[JamesW]

Check all diagnostic readings with the switch off. Then, on and recheck all readings. Then, off for 5 minutes and back on and check all readings including the initial display salt level.

The box and cell were both made in May 2010.

Is this a "Low Salt" model?

Is the model number AQR-XL-9-CUL?

 

[Pool_Medic]

My guess is the pcb is shot, either it’s the thermistor (black round thing size of a quarter) check it for cracks.

 

[JamesW]

My guess is the pcb is shot, either it’s the thermistor (black round thing size of a quarter) check it for cracks.

I don't think it's the thermistor. The voltage looks ok. When the thermistor fails, the voltage won't stay steady, it will drop out.

 

[kolcun]

The model doesn’t include the 9. It is AQR-XL-CUL. Not the low salt version

The pcb looks pretty good. Not seeing anything that looks burnt

 

[JamesW]

What are the diagnostic readings?

When you turn it on, there is an initial display. That's the average salinity. Then, you press the button to get all of the others diagnostic readings.

 

[kolcun]

What are the diagnostic readings?

Power was disconnected. Now reconnected.
Switch in off mode

Salt 2400
Temp 77
32.5
0.00
40p
-0
Al-1
R1.58
T-9

Put in super chlorinate
Salt 2400
Temp 76
26.5
3.74
P100
-2900
Al-1
R1.58
T-9

Then low check salt and inspect sell started flashing
Waited 5 min

Still flashing check salt and inspect cell
Salt 2400
Temp 75
27.0
3.84
100p
-2900
Al-1
R1.58
T-9


Thanks! Appreciate the help.

 

[JamesW]

When you get to instant salinity, move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto.

This will update the average salinity from 2,400 ppm to the instant salinity reading.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will flash together when the average salt level is between 2400-2700ppm. Chlorine is still being produced.

The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will be on solid when the average salt level is 2300ppm or less. Chlorine production is turned off.

Inspect Cell LED will flash by itself when 500 operational hour countdown timer has expired. Requires manual reset. To manually reset the Inspect Cell LED, press and hold the Diagnostics button until LED goes out (approximately 3 to 5 seconds).

 

[Saturn94]

I had the same problem some years ago. Replacing the main board fixed it.

 

[JamesW]

I had the same problem some years ago. Replacing the main board fixed it.

The main board is ok. It's just a low average salinity reading that needs to be updated.

 

[MannyT]

Hi, is you SWCG on a timer? I see that you have variable speed pump and if your SWCG is not on a timer it could be causing your average salinity to be off and not generating.

 

[JamesW]

If the aquarite generates with the pump off, you will get a low instant salinity that will bring down the average salinity reading.

The average salinity reading is the average of several instant salinity readings. If the cell is on while the pump is off, you will average in a low instant salinity reading.

 

[kolcun]

JamesW,

Thanks I updated the avg salinity

I had done a reset of the inspect cell light the other day, so did not do this again now.

MannyT,

I do use a timer. And you brought up a good point, I do not turn off the swg unit when the pump is off. This didn’t seem to be an issue last year, but if it is, I could probably tie my swg into my automation so it’s on only when the pump is.

 

[kolcun]

When the pump is off, the unit shows No Flow. and this will never get to the generating state. Is this correct?

In that case, will the average still be affected?

 

[JamesW]

The No Flow should prevent generation of chlorine but it's better to make sure power is removed from the aquarite when the pump is off.

 

[kolcun]

Yes,

When I turn the pump off, no flow goes on

When the pump turns back on, no flow flashes for a short time, then goes out.

 

[JamesW]

The No Flow should prevent generation of chlorine but it's better to make sure power is removed from the aquarite when the pump is off.