Aquarite problem

[Dave31410]

I have an Aquarite 900 system that is about 5 years old, with a T-15 cell. The display is not showing salt level but shows E-3. I think it is an E but no top horizontal piece is showing. The check salt light is on as well. I tested the salt level and it is 3000ppm. Is this an electronics problem or a need for a new cell or something else?

 

[JamesW]

Basic AquaRite Diagnostics
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

Report all diagnostic readings when you..
Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Dave31410]

t-3, 1.1, 21, 32.4, 0, 33p, -0, AL-1, r 1.59
t-3, 1.1, 21, 26.8, 5.61, 41p, -1.3, AL-1, r1.59
t-3, 1.4, 21, 32.5, 0, 39p, 0, AL-1, r1.59
cell# 4E18__4 could not read 5th and6th numbers
box# 4A18263
Salinity is 3000 measured by Taylor K-1766 kit

 

[JamesW]

Change the T-3 to T-15.

Change from metric to US and then recheck all readings.

 

[Dave31410]

2700, 69, 26.6, 5.9, 41, 3100, AL-1, r1.59, t15

 

[JamesW]

Those numbers look ok.

Did you do the test twice to see both polarities?

 

[Dave31410]

The only difference when changing polarities is the amps was 0.
It appear to be generating CL based on little bubbles in the returns. I am going to add salt gradually to see if that works. I think things may have gotten off when we lost power for 4 days.

 

[ajw22]

The only difference when changing polarities is the amps was 0.

Was volts higher at around 32? 32V, 0A says that polarity is not generating and only half your cell is working.

 

[JamesW]

Report all diagnostic readings when you..
Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

 

[JamesW]

The only difference when changing polarities is the amps was 0.

Was that with the switch in the Off position?

If the switch was On, did you give it time to power on?

 

[Dave31410]

OK thanks everyone. I don't want to keep running out and checking the readings. I am going to give it 24 hours to see if the salt level stabilizes. I suspect I just need a new cell.

 

[JamesW]

To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity.

If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell.

The ratio for both polarities should be about the same and both should be above 75%.

 

[Dave31410]

Well, after setting the cell type to t-15 and changing from metric to US and adding a bag of salt everything seems to be OK with no lights flashing. I am going to get a new salt test kit. Thanks for the help. I suspect the recent hurricane rains and power outages messed things up.

 

[JamesW]

The display board might be loose causing the settings to get out of the correct numbers.

You can remove and reset the display board.