Aqualink RS Temp Sensor Failed

TexasYellowJacket

Active member
Aug 15, 2021
30
Houston, TX
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Saline Generating Systems Breeze 540
Moved from HERE

Sorry to dredge up an old (relatively) post. My water temperature sensor seems to have failed. Getting no reading on the Jandy PDA handheld. The control panel is an Aqualink RS. The air temperature sensor appears to be working fine. Last night, I turned on the spa but since there was no water temperature the heater refused to light. It gave no alarms.
I had to start the heater at the heater itself.
Today, I wanted to swap the sensors in the panel but I cannot get the wires out. My circuit board does not have screws. The wires are held in by a spring-loaded "shield". The empty ones next to it are pretty easy to push in using a small pick, but the ones that have wires I cannot get to budge. My wife was holding the panel while I tried to release the wires.

Anyone seen these connections and have any tips for pulling the wires?

I'm assuming the only option is to replace the failed one, but I wanted to see if swapping would allow normal control of the hot tub. Hoping removing the air temperature doesn't lock the system down.
Thanks,
James
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Post pics of the sensor connections.

Are you planning to pull out the water sensor from your pipe and insert the air sensor?

Just swapping the sensor connections will not give your Aqualink correct temperature control of the heater.
 
Post pics of the sensor connections.

Are you planning to pull out the water sensor from your pipe and insert the air sensor?

Just swapping the sensor connections will not give your Aqualink correct temperature control of the heater.
I will swap in panel and in field. I'm an idiot for not taking a pic when I had it open. I'll open it again tomorrow and take a pic.

Any thoughts on issues with a non-reading air sensor? Wondering if I can run without it indefinitely.
 
Will be great to see pictures. It sounds like you have something non-standard. Check out the manual page 22. Mine looks just like the book:
AMWts8Ch_RSNyGMQYVHuBau1YcEmffXEWd1fVraE6PfqBl1jDXESZLxHMeiGqwsCkvvIUGzyllQsIOxJIarlQVbqnteINLE9X7vQBh7YMezlAvxm-lr8Prqm-EkDD1QvOOaG7_IYpttIRj8WXTRIa_FNwwYBhsWAiNpdHBHIlBu7lnFEiwDAkizfvdgA-Tbs_MHf239WGuNILEicr1y29y0UQf7anTEs_a9XYP1oM7nRBnoqKn7etnGyNZ3wnH-fMwiQbOLxdRkqJJ7a0lFkei9c2-740lzWq-RLmtPMJXi6nXQXyYzw_PtnXWLOFcGrusiRQbKASHqEr-UVLdaMt24GtLGilNmw2uU_0Kvf89WJfdMUFySsDbShJ4tGrWXVu5I9poIRp6XhMXl-1VEU9Ba6UdsUdBD2fAsszue961bcirBotd_P8Hq2i__z3kjCjguM3T8azpV34mevatDA-_E7sxwxmlyfHkcqA3h1qrzZt02HGs40_zWlU0FBT4A4s0tdqg_VJSC_9N0A742k1GrqstPxPUPZGAzWsihwL2Q8BmrLWhCS87w_c58IjEPh2cHhB4gpuRVGNZDOuIQRK-9XmAYAAtIYf-GhCp2uTEROgtVLocJE053iw7aVnS05tmwDOkJObzZQ_QDH8K8d6fKxtuRMEI8V8Tgs-gyDJ4R1yMQnKOYkprJFqjbuKXNvH63eVufWYXWLc_oCZoa2nBuLs-GUVVGCcQLk9RfW4TH0VF3Peewgy3uNqJzCtxC30dC3hJFp6uiwJqiXUNyXCvT0yfFPDXq942ricRjtKkYsWXmpyo8Fx287TNwhfZrJTtf8PiCmxeHRCKpjpai9axfrcg-1tU9PyizoouLSCN_HXgsO71-okF2K3rBLbJFR7iMNPRxXOd1oX-jBtIHflItLFD9xqQI2TBqU9xIAMO4ZobO5iewpnZNuEtjl5-o0=w2080-h1374-no

As you can see, all the header socket positions have screws. That socket can be pulled completely out to work on it, though I've not found that necessary. If some screws are missing, you should be able to move others from unused pins to the ones you need. If the whole plug is missing, maybe you can source just that.

Yikes. I just checked, and Jandy wants at least $75 for that dumb header plug. Those guys are completely out of control on pricing.
 
Last edited:

Jandy charges ridiculous prices for the red 4 screw and green 10 screw terminal blocks. They are called "Riacon" terminal blocks.

Metz part number 31007104, Digi-key part number 1849-1116-ND is the 4 pin block. These are black colored rather than the red colored ones, but otherwise they are the same.

Metz part number 31007110 is the 10 pin block, Digi-Key Part Number 31007110-ND
 
I will swap in panel and in field. I'm an idiot for not taking a pic when I had it open. I'll open it again tomorrow and take a pic.

Any thoughts on issues with a non-reading air sensor? Wondering if I can run without it indefinitely.

Put a 10K resistor in place of the air temperature sensor and it should read 76F indefinitely.

 
All,
No pics coming. I plead the 5th.

I swapped the wires in the panel...only to find the air sensor wire is only like 3' long. That kills the idea of swapping them in the field.
But, with them swapped, the pump will run. My handheld now shows water temp of 72°F (actual air temp) and air temp of 222°F.
Why does it read now, but refused to show anything when plugged into the water temp slots on the board?
Regardless, I will be ordering a new sensor as there's no way I can run the spa with no working water temp.
Thanks,
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.