Aqualink RS installing GFCI breakers

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J

jw94549

Member
Mar 8, 2020
7
SF East Bay, CA
I have a circa 2005 in ground pool with the Jandy Aqualink RS automation system that includes an 8 space sub panel. My pool guy recommended that I upgrade the breakers to GFCI for safety. I currently have two GFCI breakers - the pool light and the landscaping lights. The remaining breakers are not GFCI.

The Intelliflo VS pump and the Mini Max heater are powered from the first double pole 20A breaker (via pigtail). The Whisperflo pump for the waterfall and the Letro booster pump are on a quad pole 15A breaker. Finally the automation transformer is on a single pole 15A breaker. One empty space remains.

I understand there are no quad or twin GFCI breakers... So my question is that I appear to be short on breaker spaces, and would like to avoid installing a new sub panel (the later Jandy models have 12 spaces).

I would like to know from the community if it would be OK for the following: Replace the 2x20A breaker for main pump and heater with GFCI. Replace the quad breaker with two 2x15A GFCI breakers for the other two pumps. Keep the single pole GFCI breakers for the pool light and landscape lights. All 8 spaces are now used.

What missing? I still need to find a method to power the automation transformer. Does the internal transformer need GFCI? Am I OK to add the transformer wire to one leg's pigtail for main pump/heater? Also I've seen conflicting advice on whether the gas heater needs it's own GFCI breaker so that might be another missing piece.

All advice is welcome. Thank you, JW
 
Welcome to TFP.

Post a pic of your existing breakers with the cover removed showing the wiring. It will make it a lot easier following what you describe. You don't state which breakers are 230V and which breakers are 115V.

My concern about doubling pumps up on a breaker is NEC requires a dedicated breaker for each pump. You also should not load a breaker more then 80% of it's am rating. 16amp load on a 20 amp breaker and 12 amp load on a 15 amp breaker.

Look at the data plates on the pumps and check what the total amps will be if you double up pumps and other equipment on a single breaker.
 
All 3 pumps and the heater are 230v, using the Breakers on the left. The controller, pool light and landscape lights are 115v, with breakers on the right.
Each pump is now on its own circuit breaker and I want to keep it that way. The only equipment doubled up at present are the main pump and gas heater on the upper left breaker. The waterfall and booster are lower left quad breaker. Replacing the quad with 2 double pole GFCI will take up the lower left and upper right spaces. I then lose the breaker currently at upper right for the automation transformer. The existing GFCI breakers move to lower right.
I hope this helps clarify my dilemma. Thanks





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How many lights of what type are the pool lights and landscape lights? Are they less then 16 amps so they can be combined on one 120V GFCI breaker?

Then you power panel from other 120V breaker. Panel doesn’t need GFCI.

The lights are most likely to trip the GFCI. You don’t want light GFCI trips shutting down the Aqualink system.

I would put heater on same breaker as booster pump.
 
Allen, thank you for your replies. I believe the landscaping light circuit has too much to be combined with other loads. Long conduit run, 2 low voltage transformers, outlets they plug into, and a couple line voltage lights for a big tree. Not to mention subject to irrigation, and I have had some broken bulbs causing GFCI trips.

The pool light is Pentair Amerlite 300W so about 3 Amps, entire assembly replaced a few years ago. Rock solid, no GFCI trips. The automation panel transformer label also says 3A. So I'm thinking about running those on the same GFCI breaker, also new.

If it is better to keep the automation on its own circuit, one idea is to install a non GFCI tandem breaker in the last slot. One circuit on the tandem supplies the transformer. The other circuit runs to a GFI outlet in the panel side knockout, which then supplies the pool light.

I agree the booster pump (at 6.5A) and heater (label says "less than" 5A for 115/230V) are the safest to run on same breaker. I will use Siemens QPF for all new breakers especially the VS 3050.

I am also plan to upgrade the bonding. The automation panel is not currently bonded. And the lugs on the pumps and heater all look kinda corroded after 15 years.

All comments appreciated. Thanks again, JW
 
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Allen I saw your other post about the HEPD50/80 which the instructions say can be installed by direct bus. Would that work in my Jandy sub panel with the Intermatic breaker base? I'm not seeing an appropriate "bus mounting screw" per the instructions. Just the incoming lugs. Here is the pic of the inside of my panel. Thanks JW

IMG_0444.jpeg
 
I have not looked at an empty Aqualink panel in a long time to remember if there are any appropriate bus mounting screws you can use to conned the HEPD50/80. You would need to pull out the CBs and see how the two buses are mounted.
 

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You can install 1/2 thickness breakers (space savers). But I would not switch out those breakers for GFI breakers. Especially motors they tend to trip GFIs and then your pump is off.
 
I would love to keep my existing pump breakers, however the local authorities have adopted the 2019 codes, and all of the local pool service companies are requiring GFCI breakers on all pumps and heaters that touch the pool water. Otherwise they will not get involved in any equipment repair or replacement. I understand the siemens QPF breakers work well with my Pentair pumps. We shall see.
 
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