Aqualink OneTouch Control panel with blank screen - pool is new to me

[AmberCrest]

I still cannot believe I have not come across this forum till now but hopefully the timing is right.
We just purchased a (new to us) home that already has a pool with SPA and heater but there is no documentation. Over the past weeks I have more or less figured out that it is an Aqualink RS but I don't yet know for sure if it is a RS4 or RS8 though I'm going to guess an 8. I'm totally used to the quite simple AquaLogic we have been using for almost 20 years so this thing was/is a mystery. I did not even realize that the control panel on the wall in the house was part of the pool :-Q

That is where I will start.
The pool timer is running a normal daytime schedule and when set to service mode, by pressing some of the various AUX buttons, rotation of the two motorized valves and the blower for the SPA can be triggered. The pool light(s) do not seem to work - not sure if there is one or more and there is also a bunch of other unidentified stuff near the pool that seems to be light related but may or may not be directly connected to the pool control system.
I did not realize that the main control is the panel in the house till this weekend. It is the 6 button 'OneTouch' and the LCD panel is dark / blank. The LED at the lower right, just below the down arrow is lite Yellow or Amber. I gather it is actually a multi color LED?
I have not yet traced any wiring.

I came across a suggestion that it might just need a reset. I saw a reset button (I think top right) on the circuit board but am hesitant to do that as I do not know what that will actually do. I do not want to reset the timer as we do not live there yet and cannot take the chance it will not run. though I really wish I could change the timer to run overnight to better protect against the freezing weather.

Suggestions on troubleshooting the OneTouch panel?
And if you know a resource that provides a decent overview of the Aqualink system, that might help me determine what we actually have and what all we can do with it?

And is it typical that the Jandy phone number is simply not answered? I've called a few times this week and the auto-answer attendant says they are closed...

TIA

 

[jthom86]

I would not reset it. Do you know who installed it? Where are you located? I think you might need to get a pool pro out to help you go over your new home equipment, if not to hire someone to take care of it for you. At least to instruct you on how to use it.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Pressing the RESET button on the Aqualink panel does not clear any programming. It resets the CPU and is the same as if you power the panel down and up.

Have you reviewed the manuals on the Jandy Aqualink website?

Do you have iAqualink?

Show us pictures of the Aqualink panel and the wiring inside and the PCB board. I need to see what vintage Aqualink board you have.

Also pictures of the One Touch panel.

The 4 wire cable from the One Touch to the outside panel often goes bad. You can pull the One Touch from the wall and take it out to the panel and connect it with a short piece of wire. If it displays then it confirms the wire is bad.

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ajw22]

I would not reset it. Do you know who installed it? Where are you located? I think you might need to get a pool pro out to help you go over your new home equipment, if not to hire someone to take care of it for you. At least to instruct you on how to use it.

Then the “Pool Pro” coming here asking for help.

Better if we cut out the middleman/woman.

 

[AmberCrest]

A few replies...

The house is located just north of Atlanta and while I will not totally discount the idea, hiring someone to do this before I have even tried is really antithetical to everything in me
And... I 'WISH' I knew who installed it, I'd share some tasty opinions... The coping and tilework is really terrible! And that's just the beginning :-(

I'm slowly getting into the Jandy PDFs I downloaded but having a working panel would entirely change the equation...

We are going over there tomorrow but just for the day so I may not have time to dig in. In the meantime, a few exterior pics. And I gather now it is the 6614 as its all-in-one:




As I understand it, the connection is just 4 wires between the panel and the box. I'll bring along some wire and at least try out the local connection idea.
If I get so far as opening and doing this, do you happen to know what voltage I might be able to test for on those leads?

Pressing the RESET button on the Aqualink panel does not clear any programming. It resets the CPU and is the same as if you power the panel down and up.

Moving it outside will do that reset but very good to know that it just resets the panel CPU. I guess all the settings are memorized at the main box. Makes sense since multiple control devices can be connected.
And near as I can tell there is no iAqualink, at least I have not seen anything resembling what I see online and I've seen nothing with an antenna.

As an addition, there is a spalink RS that is dead. I've not looked at that at all but I was thinking it might just be dead batteries but I see it is hardwired and pretty pricy.
I think that may answer my query though about a piece of conduit with just one small wire going into the ground at the base of the control box.


Many thanks!!!

 

[ajw22]

As I understand it, the connection is just 4 wires between the panel and the box. I'll bring along some wire and at least try out the local connection idea.
If I get so far as opening and doing this, do you happen to know what voltage I might be able to test for on those leads?

Both the One Touch and Spalink use RS-485 data comm. Disconnect the Spalink from the board and see if it was jamming the RS-485 bus.

Power down the Aqualink before changing any RS-485 connections.

Do not check voltage on the middle screw RS-485 data lines. Shorting them will blow the comm chip.

The LED being ON the One Touch indicates it is getting power from the outside screws.

Your RS-485 comm bus could be dead which would be why the One Touch and Spalink are both not communicating with the PCB.

Jandy Troubleshooting Manual for AquaLink® RSAll Button and OneTouch™ Control Systems covers many common problems.

The Aqualink RS board has one or two RS-485 connections. You can connect at most two sets of wires to each RS-485 connection. Depending on whether your panel has one or two ports, you can have two or four devices hooked up to the main PCB.

• Outside screws, typically red and green wires, should be 10 volts DC to power devices
• Middle screws, typically blue/black and yellow wires, are the comm link, under 5 volts.

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ajw22]

 

[AmberCrest]

OK... Nothing good to report but I do know more...
First, thanks for the flow chart. I did see that last night when reviewing the 'Further Reading' link you posted and finding the 'Jandy Troubleshooting Manual...' but having it here was quicker.

Disconnected the SPA control panel and tested - No change.
Confirmed that 9.96 volts is available at pins 1&4 at the control box and at the panel location. Also confirmed continuity for pins 2&3/wires 2&3. (Actually, that line is quite nice solid core ~20g wire so pretty tough)
Also tried connecting the remote panel with a short set of leads. Nada... The panel does not do anything but illuminate the amber power indicator.
Correct me if I am wrong but even if the comms chip / PCB are bad, when first powering up, wouldn't the remote panel at least display some sort of initial local boot messages or wouldn't the LCD screen or backlight at least illuminate?
That screen does nothing at all so presuming at least one of those are true then that remote panel must be dead as a doornail...

Here are some pics of the inside:



Not sure what it means in the scheme of things yet but based on the dip switches, I gather this is an "older AquaLink board as it does not have the second set of dip switches.
This is what I have:


Now... How to proceed...
I still feel like the issue is the control panel(s) and not the comms PCB but perhaps it is both (bummer).
I did not check the voltage on pins 2&3 but even if I do, would that really confirm the comms PCB is working?

If my quick search is correct, replacing the OneTouch panel will be about $600.
I'm not sure if I'm reading it right but I might have a 'L' revision PCB so pretty old. It sort of seems I would need the iQ30-RS kit to move to iAqualink for about $1,200? Money aside, would that be a better solution? It seems more flexible as I gather it can be accessed from iPhone / Android or any HTML5 browser but I do like the idea of just a simple wall mounted panel - guess I could get a cheap Android tablet and mount that to the wall
More to the point, would going with that upgrade remove all the known issues I currently have, meaning that would replace the comms chip(s) and give me a working control UI?

Thanks very much for the guidance !!!

 

[ajw22]

IQ-30RS upgrade gives you a complete replacement PCB. I would do that versus replacing the One Touch.

Rev L is from 2004 and does not support VS pumps or other new devices. You will need to upgrade your PCB eventually. See if you can get Rev Yg which is the latest and supports Jandys new pump addressing and virtual AUX circuits,

When you install the upgrade PCB you can see if your One Touch or Spalink works with it.

I have never had my hands on a One Touch panel to know exactly what it does with bad comms. Maybe @PoolGate @MSchutzer does.

 

[ajw22]

BTW, while you are upgrading your panel you should install GFCI CBs for your pumps for safety as required by current NEC.

Electrical GFCI - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[HermanTX]

I'm not sure if I'm reading it right but I might have a 'L' revision PCB so pretty old. It sort of seems I would need the iQ30-RS kit to move to iAqualink for about $1,200? Money aside, would that be a better solution? It seems more flexible as I gather it can be accessed from iPhone / Android or any HTML5 browser but I do like the idea of just a simple wall mounted panel - guess I could get a cheap Android tablet and mount that to the wall

The IQ30-RS kit provides you a new (and hopefully the latest) revision PCB. You also receive a new antenna 3.0 which works with mesh WifI systems.
There will be 2 RED connectors which are your RS-485 connections. As stated earlier - you can put 2 devices on each RED connectors. Most new hook ups need a minimum of 2 RED connectors Example of RS-485 connections- the RS 3.0 antenna, a VS pump and a SWCG.

I had an inside panel which I removed once I installed the IQ30-RS package. I use my phone app 99% of time and have it on an iPad if needed. But I find it best that one person controls the pool information.
I also did away with the spa controller. Mine was placed in the deck next to the spa and constantly being hit by things or the sun beamed down on it.

 

[PoolGate]

The IQ30-RS kit provides you a new (and hopefully the latest) revision PCB. You also receive a new antenna 3.0 which works with mesh WifI systems.
There will be 2 RED connectors which are your RS-465 connections. As stated earlier - you can put 2 devices on each RED connectors. Most new hook ups need a minimum of 2 RED connectors Example of RS-485 connections- the RS 3.0 antenna, a VS pump and a SWCG.

I had an inside panel which I removed once I installed the IQ30-RS package. I use my phone app 99% of time and have it on an iPad if needed. But I find it best that one person controls the pool information.
I also did away with the spa controller. Mine was placed in the deck next to the spa and constantly being hit by things or the sun beamed down on it.

For the OneTouch, try running a new cable direct from your panel short maybe 10 feet to see if it is the cable or the OneTouch. It can use any alarm system 4 wire cable.

Also if you need more RS-485 connections you can get the multiplexor to expand capacity.

Jandy AquaLink RS Multiplex Board - 6584 - INYOPools.com

6584 - Jandy AquaLink RS Multiplex Board

www.inyopools.com

 

[AmberCrest]

For the OneTouch, try running a new cable direct from your panel short maybe 10 feet to see if it is the cable or the OneTouch. It can use any alarm system 4 wire cable.

Also if you need more RS-485 connections you can get the multiplexor to expand capacity.

Jandy AquaLink RS Multiplex Board - 6584 - INYOPools.com

6584 - Jandy AquaLink RS Multiplex Board

www.inyopools.com

Yes thanks... Already tried a short cable with no difference

 

[AmberCrest]

I might start a new separate thread on this directly related question but might as well kick it off here as it seems I'm suddenly in a serious time crunch.

I'm currently out of town and heard from my better half today that the Aqualink system seems to have forgotten it's time schedule. When set to Auto, it does not automatically power the pump on. In Service mode the pump can still be turned on.
As background, I set it to Service mode late last week as the Atlanta area was again going well under freezing and we already had one break this winter (possibly two). The system was running during the day and only doing freeze protect at night. At 14 degrees, that was evidently not enough.
We got past the hard freeze but now Auto seems to not do anything. With no control panel we're kind of stuck so time to pull the trigger.

The question - What is the story with buying the IQ30-RS kit online?
Most places seem to be carrying it for around $1200-$1400 but a lot of what I think are the 'more reputable' places imply or specifically say the kit is not available to purchase on-line due to manufacture restriction. For example, the InYo site states: "PER THE MANUFACTURER: THIS ITEM IS NOT AVAILABLE FOR SALE ONLINE"

There are a few places that list it for less, $1050-$1100 and while they will sell it, two of the three also seem to imply that the item is only for "pro" pool service purchase.
I've not called yet but marina pool spa and patio is seems to have it for $1000...

Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

Jandy does not support Internet sales or DIY..

https://www.poolspanews.com/companies/zodiac-takes-jandy-off-the-internet_o

Warranty Policy​

Jandy pool equipment is sold exclusively through a nationwide network of qualified pool professionals with the expertise and ability to help pool owners make the best equipment decisions for their individual pool needs. Therefore, we do not provide a Manufacturer’s Warranty on Jandy equipment purchased online through any internet retailer.

You need to directly buy most Jandy equipment from grey market sellers or where they are small enough to stay below Jandys radar.

If Marina sells it, then get it there.

 

[PoolGate]

Buy everything from eBay.

 

[HermanTX]

I might start a new separate thread on this directly related question but might as well kick it off here as it seems I'm suddenly in a serious time crunch.

I'm currently out of town and heard from my better half today that the Aqualink system seems to have forgotten it's time schedule. When set to Auto, it does not automatically power the pump on. In Service mode the pump can still be turned on.
As background, I set it to Service mode late last week as the Atlanta area was again going well under freezing and we already had one break this winter (possibly two). The system was running during the day and only doing freeze protect at night. At 14 degrees, that was evidently not enough.
We got past the hard freeze but now Auto seems to not do anything. With no control panel we're kind of stuck so time to pull the trigger.

The question - What is the story with buying the IQ30-RS kit online?
Most places seem to be carrying it for around $1200-$1400 but a lot of what I think are the 'more reputable' places imply or specifically say the kit is not available to purchase on-line due to manufacture restriction. For example, the InYo site states: "PER THE MANUFACTURER: THIS ITEM IS NOT AVAILABLE FOR SALE ONLINE"

There are a few places that list it for less, $1050-$1100 and while they will sell it, two of the three also seem to imply that the item is only for "pro" pool service purchase.
I've not called yet but marina pool spa and patio is seems to have it for $1000...

Thanks!

I have purchased from Polytec Pools some Jandy items. Call them, and they will tell you to either order online or order on the phone (like be there in person).

I purchased my iQ30-RS kit from a local Pinch a Penny pool store. I purchase liquid chlorine and salt consistently from them, plus I had previously purchased my Pentair VS pump that was on a big sale at their store. They were willing to give me a good price for the iQ30-RS and I paid an extra $150 for installation. This was nearly 4 years ago so not sure about current prices.
Sometimes it may be worth it to pay the local price vs the risk of unknown from online dealers. Just an option for consideration.

 

[AmberCrest]

OK... I will have an iQ30-RS soon. Have to say, it took a bit to get things confirmed - among other things I was getting contradictory info such as I was told by different people three different warranty terms... 3-year, 2-year and 1-year. Anyway, I would like to better understand the installation.
I do not seem to find an installation manual for the iQ30 but I do see one for iQ20. I presume they are pretty much the same except the 30 has the newer antenna and that in terms of hardware, I guess it will be pretty much a 1:1 swap from the old board to the new board?
In terms of programming... As I cannot access the current board, I really have no idea what sort of programs exist so might I ask about some generalities?
This is an inground Pool with adjacent Spa with spillover into the pool. The Spa has a blower and there is a gas fired heater.
There are four control valves, two are motorized.
In terms of flow to the pump:
#1) [manual valve] selects between the pool main drain and the pool skimmer
#2 {motorized valve} selects between valve#1 and the Spa drain
Flow from the pump:
#3 [motorized] I believe selects between pool return and Spa return (these are not labeled)
#4[manual valve] I am guessing this is where the blower connects in for the Spa

I presume the flow coming from the pool should be more or less split between the skimmer and both drains with perhaps a bit more suction at the skimmer but time will tell how the pool acts and what keeps it clean. (note that currently there is no pool cleaning robot).
But that (I would think) needs to be balanced so there is always water flowing over the Spa>pool spillover.
I would guess flow from the pump should also be split with a lean towards more into the pool but keeping that balance of some spillover from Spa>pool.
With that all said, I've never worked with motorized valves - I presume that as part of the programming, you can set them to move to any position so the above-mentioned flows can be tweaked for best performance?

For some reason I cannot find photos of the heater info and really cannot remember what it is but it obviously ties to the Aqualink for temp control. Beyond temp, are there any other functions I 'might' have for the heater?

Regarding the pump... It would seem to be a 2-speed: SP4020X252NS however, I have not confirmed that the motor actually is a 2- speed motor and I just discovered there are multiple generations of that pump - this one seems to be 2005.

Thanks again!

 

[HermanTX]

I do not seem to find an installation manual for the iQ30 but I do see one for iQ20. I presume they are pretty much the same except the 30 has the newer antenna and that in terms of hardware

Correct. There is a registration number on the antenna and on a place card contained in the package. That is needed to register the new antenna/PCB in the iAquaLink app. The only difference between 2.0 and 3.0 is that 3.0 is improved to work with MESH networks such as Eero.

I guess it will be pretty much a 1:1 swap from the old board to the new board?
In terms of programming... As I cannot access the current board, I really have no idea what sort of programs exist so might I ask about some generalities?

Yes. Take of picture of the connections on the old PCB and also of the dipswitches on the left of the board.
Don’t worry about the current programming as you want to start fresh once everything is installed.

There are four control valves, two are motorized.
In terms of flow to the pump:
#1) [manual valve] selects between the pool main drain and the pool skimmer
#2 {motorized valve} selects between valve#1 and the Spa drain
Flow from the pump:
#3 [motorized] I believe selects between pool return and Spa return (these are not labeled)
#4[manual valve] I am guessing this is where the blower connects in for the Spa

#1 is to set suction between main drain and skimmers. I had mine set 80% open to skimmer and 20% to main drain. This is adjustable over time.
#2 This will plug into the INTAKE socket on the PCB. It will auto rotate when selecting Pool or Spa mode. It is firmware programmed so can not be changed.
#3 same as #2 but plug into the RETURN socket on PCB.
#4 - would like to see a photo of this and the whole equipment pad. It could be an spillover valve to allow the spa to spillover into the pool when the system is in POOL mode.

Regarding the pump... It would seem to be a 2-speed: SP4020X252NS however, I have not confirmed that the motor actually is a 2- speed motor and I just discovered there are multiple generations of that pump - this one seems to be 2005.

The current dipswitches may indicate if it is a 2 speed pump. Take a photo of current PCB dipswitches.

 

[ajw22]

The current dipswitches may indicate if it is a 2 speed pump. Take a photo of current PCB dipswitches.

See post #8.

Dip switch 2 is on and it looks like there is a 2-speed relay in the lower right.

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

AUX2 should change the pump to low speed.