Any advice welcome

mike_jones

Member
Sep 2, 2022
14
Nevada
Pool Size
15400
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi folks,

I think I'm getting ready to live that TFP life, but wanted to post here just in case anyone had a good tip before I add boric acid.

As background: first time pool owner this summer in Las Vegas, 16k gal plaster, with a hot tub that spills 2' into pool. When we inherited it, everything was off, but thanks to this forum and our handy Taylor test kit we got it mostly under control. First was CYA/FC. Looking good there, CYA is mid 40s and we use KEMTEK 10% liquid chlorine from Lowes as our sanitizer.

Lately I've been keeping an eye on pH. Seems to creep up quite quickly. TA was 160, it sounds like that will push pH up quickly. I'm sure the waterfall aerating the pool is contributing as well. Over the last week I've been adding 14.5% KEMTEK muriatic acid to lower pH and TA, then using hot tub bubblers and waterfall to raise pH. TA is now down to 90s.

My plan: Continue until TA is down to 60ish, then add the boric acid (55 gal drum from dudadiesel is on the way). But I've read several times to get the TA down to where I want it before adding, and it'll be a few days before we get there. So I wanted to throw this post out there in case anyone had some good advice before moving forward.

I'm excited to add boric acid because of the skin feel (we're in the hot tub every night, hoping it helps my skin feel less dry). Also the waterfall will continue to aerate, hoping the borates will be a good buffer and I only have to add small amounts of acid to keep pH in the range we want.

Any input/advice is welcome! Thanks.

Edit: Seems I need to clarify... open to advice from people who have gone through this before, have a tip/trick to consider through the process, stuff along those lines.
 
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I've read this several times. Anything specific you are trying to point out?

Nope, I don't know what you have seen or not seen.

I don't think borates will be the magic fix to your pH that you expect.

Let us know how it works for you.
 
The TA of your fill water is 130 ppm. Regardless of borates or not, you will still need to add acid every few days during high evaporation times. Essentially April to November.
 
hoping the borates will be a good buffer and I only have to add small amounts of acid to keep pH in the range we want.
Although borates do SLOW pH rise, more MA is needed to decrease pH levels compared to a pool without borates.

You can play with borate levels in Pool Math to see how they effect the amount of MA needed to reduce pH levels. Make sure you log an accurate borate level in Pool Math when the time comes to calculate MA additions.
 
@Rancho Cost-a-Lotta @mknauss thanks for the replies. Both lead me to believe adding MA is just something I'll be doing on a regular basis.

Any pro/con to type of MA? I've been using the 14.5% KEMTEK, works well. I could hunt for some of the stronger stuff, but the KEMTEK stuff at Lowes is a good price and convenient. I'm mainly thinking impact on salt levels with this question. I'm thinking the stronger the MA, the less you need to use, the less impact on CL levels. Not sure if that's right though. Even so, I don't know if my CL level should be of a concern since I'm using liquid chlorine as a sanitizer. My Taylor test kit K-2006c doesn't have the test for salt, but it looks like it's only $24 on Amazon for the CL test... I'll probably get it just so I know what the CL levels are, but I don't know what I'd do with the info.
 
You need to find the 31.45% MA. The amount you will go through will save you quite a bit of money. I get mine at Home Depot.
MA has no effect on FC (if that is what you mean by CL).

Sounds like you need to read through Pool Care Basics
 
@Rancho Cost-a-Lotta @mknauss thanks for the replies. Both lead me to believe adding MA is just something I'll be doing on a regular basis.

Any pro/con to type of MA? I've been using the 14.5% KEMTEK, works well. I could hunt for some of the stronger stuff, but the KEMTEK stuff at Lowes is a good price and convenient. I'm mainly thinking impact on salt levels with this question. I'm thinking the stronger the MA, the less you need to use, the less impact on CL levels. Not sure if that's right though. Even so, I don't know if my CL level should be of a concern since I'm using liquid chlorine as a sanitizer. My Taylor test kit K-2006c doesn't have the test for salt, but it looks like it's only $24 on Amazon for the CL test... I'll probably get it just so I know what the CL levels are, but I don't know what I'd do with the info.
It's not a good price for the strength! If you walk to the garden center at Home Depot, in the pool supplies they should have MA in 31%, 2x the strength you are using from the hardware section. Won't change anything other than you won't have to add as much.
 
Mike,

I suggest that you go full TFP but hold off on the Borates for now. It would be best to get everything running perfectly, and then decide to add borates or not.

There is no sense in making things more complicated at first.

You may decide you just don't need borates and you can always add them later if you want to go that route.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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You need to find the 31.45% MA. The amount you will go through will save you quite a bit of money. I get mine at Home Depot.
MA has no effect on FC (if that is what you mean by CL).

Sounds like you need to read through Pool Care Basics

You need to find the 31.45% MA. The amount you will go through will save you quite a bit of money. I get mine at Home Depot.
MA has no effect on FC (if that is what you mean by CL).

Sounds like you need to read through Pool Care Basics
Ok I’ll find the strong stuff.

Yes I know MA doesn’t impact FC. Was citing this: “Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid, or HCl. It is a strong mineral acid because it provides hydrogen atoms when dissolved in water. However, the counter ion is chloride (Cl-). And chloride is....well....salt.”

Edit: looks like the - sign was my downfall, Cl = chlorine, Cl- = chloride. Sorry for the confusion. I didn't do well in chemistry lol
 
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Mike,

I suggest that you go full TFP but hold off on the Borates for now. It would be best to get everything running perfectly, and then decide to add borates or not.

There is no sense in making things more complicated at first.

You may decide you just don't need borates and you can always add them later if you want to go that route.

Thanks,

Jim R.
I think you’re right. Like bbq.. only change 1 thing at a time :)

I’ll give it a month after my TA levels are at ideal range then re-evaluate.
 
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