mvoltin

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Aug 1, 2016
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atlanta, GA
I'm redesigning the plumbing for my pool due to a change in layout. My 3HP VS Pentair pump is now positioned about 1 foot above the water level, while the filter, heater, and chlorinator are located 4-5 feet above the waterline. Unfortunately, I can't reposition the equipment to be closer in height.

I’m concerned about check valves because the strong spring inside them seems to add significant resistance to the system. To minimize this resistance, I’m trying to use as few check valves as possible. Currently, I have one installed between the heater and the chlorinator.

Given that the filter is 3-4 feet higher than the pump, do I need another check valve between the pump and the filter? Thank you.
 

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A check valve when open adds about 1' of head. Insignificant.

It certainly isn't needed, but would make cleaning the pump easier.

 
OK. Perhaps putting a valve would be better?

I am also having hard time wrapping my head on the 1' head loss (no pun intended); especially, when I feel how hard the spring on it is. And this is an honest question - just trying to learn.. edit by Jim R.

I am reading that check valve leads to loss of 1 to 5PSI. 1 PSI is approximately equal to 2.31 feet of head in water. 5PSI drop is about 11.55 ft of head.
source: Pumps - Head vs. Pressure
 
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m,

Without something between the filter and the pump, when you take the pump lid off, the water in the filter will just drain back into the pool or overflow the pump.

If you don't want a check valve, then just add a manual Jandy style valve.

If you have a SWCG, and not a tab feeder, then you also do not need a check valve between the heater and the SWCG.. You do need a check valve if you are using a tab feeder.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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What flow rate are you planning for?

With a pool only and gas heater your maximum flow rate should be 40-60 GPM.


Jandy_180_Check_Valve_Head_Loss.jpg
 
What flow rate are you planning for?

With a pool only and gas heater your maximum flow rate should be 40-60 GPM.


Jandy_180_Check_Valve_Head_Loss.jpg
I have 11 jets that require about 10GPM and sometimes I run 100-110GPM when using the jets. I have three-way valve that send part of the water to heater and the chlorinator (about 50GPM) and the rest bypasses it. So, I am getting total of 110GMP (again, just when using jets) when needed but, otherwise, just using around 40-60gpm as you described.
 
I would add a 3-way diverter between your pump and filter so you can vacuum to waste or lower the water level in your pool. Also add a bypass to the heater. If there's any ball valves, replace them with high quality diverter valves.
 
Do you have a flow meter confirming you are moving 100-110 GPM of water?

I am skeptical you can do that with a Superflo pump through a gas heater.

If you have a spa, please put it in your signature along with your model gas heater.
 
I am also having hard time wrapping my head on the 1' head loss (no pun intended); especially, when I feel how hard the spring on it is.
What check valve do you have?

The Jandy check valve adds minimal head loss.

Some check valves add more, so you need to know which check valve you are talking about.

Check valves with higher psi ratings are usually used for bypass controls.

Bypass check valves usually have a 2 psi to 12 psi spring.

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I would add a 3-way diverter between your pump and filter so you can vacuum to waste or lower the water level in your pool. Also add a bypass to the heater. If there's any ball valves, replace them with high quality diverter valves.
Yes, I have a diverter to the heater. Adding a 3 way valve after the pump is a great idea. I can close backflow when cleaning the pump but also can use it to lower water if needed. thanks.
 
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