Am I doing it right?

[MiguelACA]

Finally decided to switch over to liquid chlorine and ditch the tablets. My CYA is on the higher end, but has slowly come down. It was well above 100 before, seems to be just under 100 now. With the rain and water splashing out, I feel it will level out eventually. I'll admit I wasn't too good at following yall's recommended levels. I was somewhere between what yall suggested and the "industry standard" levels. I'm in the process of getting everything squared away. With all that said, here is where I am at and what I am doing.

Liquid chlorine for the last week or two. TA had been at 110-120. Chlorine at around 6. pH around 7.4.

I noticed that my pH was climbing fast and hard after I switched to liquid chlorine. I figured that CYA from the tablets had been keeping it in check from rising too much too fast? I also read that liquid chlorine should not raise pH? Then I read that keeping my TA high could contribute to high pH and vice versa.

I used muriatic acid to drop my TA and aerating to bring up pH. I dropped the TA in two rounds, I wasn't sure if too much acid would drop the pH too low too fast and cause issues. This morning, TA was at 75ish, pH 7.0, and FC 2. Happy with the TA, will turn on the bubblers to start aerating and bring up the pH. I dumped in about 38oz of 10% bleach to get me up to around 8 FC, I believe that's the minimum needed for my level of CYA. The wife is hesitant with keeping the chlorine that high, so im compromising and not hitting the 11 that pool math is telling me. Im also concerned that at that high chlorine, the pH and other tests might be off?

I have started to use pool math logs better and more consistently. It's a great tool!

My CH is at 250, pool match suggests I bring it up, which I will do later this week. I really want to bring down the CYA, but draining and filling is not an option for me at this time. A good amount of water gets splashed out when were in the pool. Hoping the auto fill will take care of that and level out the CYA.

I appreciate any comments and suggestions.

I apologize if my post is poorly written, it's early and haven't had all my coffee!

 

[HermanTX]

Hi fellow Houstonian. It appears you are doing everything right. Have you tested your fill water? That may add some calcium unless you have a water softener. I have been keeping my TA in the 70-80 range and the pH seems to hold around 7.8. If it drifts higher I add 8-16oz of MA to bring it down slowly. I have a spa spillover that is on full time while the pump is circulating as I cannot turn it off. So I am constantly aerating which causes some of the upward drift. With all the rains during the recent storms I was able to drop my CYA to the 60-70 range. I had transitioned to 100% LC earlier in the year. I only use pucks in a floater if I visit the grandchildren over a 3-4 day period. Throughout the summer I ran my FC at 8-11ppm with no issue at all. I am now running 5-8ppm because the water is colder thus less swimming and I lowered my CYA since the beginning of swim season. I took advantage of the 8+inches of rain by draining my pool about that much prior to the rain and then it filled back up. Hope this gives you some guidance.

 

[MiguelACA]

Hey! Thanks for the reply, I haven't tested the fill water, I will test it tonight! Do you notice any discomfort or anything with the FC and pH that high? My son keeps his eyes open all the time and I see they get red after a while. Now, I had been keeping the TA at 110 - 120 and pH between around 7.4...maybe that was it lol. I rarely use the bubblers in my pool unless my son wants to play in them, so I have minimal aeration.

Hi fellow Houstonian. It appears you are doing everything right. Have you tested your fill water? That may add some calcium unless you have a water softener. I have been keeping my TA in the 70-80 range and the pH seems to hold around 7.8. If it drifts higher I add 8-16oz of MA to bring it down slowly. I have a spa spillover that is on full time while the pump is circulating as I cannot turn it off. So I am constantly aerating which causes some of the upward drift. With all the rains during the recent storms I was able to drop my CYA to the 60-70 range. I had transitioned to 100% LC earlier in the year. I only use pucks in a floater if I visit the grandchildren over a 3-4 day period. Throughout the summer I ran my FC at 8-11ppm with no issue at all. I am now running 5-8ppm because the water is colder thus less swimming and I lowered my CYA since the beginning of swim season. I took advantage of the 8+inches of rain by draining my pool about that much prior to the rain and then it filled back up. Hope this gives you some guidance.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Miguel,

There is just no reason to have your CYA that high.. If you want to do it "right" you need to drain about half your pool water and get your CYA down to below 50.. This will allow you to run at a much lower FC level...

Acid in your pucks was keeping your pH down.. When you quit using pucks, your pH will go up, that is why you now need to add MA, just like the pucks used to do..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Katodude]

I keep my FC at around 9-10 with a CYA of 70. At your CYA you can easily keep it at 11 (pH testing will be harder). By keeping you FC lower you are risking an algae outbreak.

 

[MiguelACA]

I agree on needing to lower the CYA level, it's just not practical at this time to drain half my pool. The CYA was much higher, but with the last big storm we had come through, A LOT of water went into the pool and diluted it! I will get on it as soon as possible though.

Question, and I hope im asking this correctly... Keeping my FC at 11 with my CYA at 100, would that be the same as having FC at around 4-6 with a CYA of 30 in regards to chlorine effects on the body such as rashes and irritation? I hope the question made sense.

Thank you

 

[MiguelACA]

My test kit only goes up to 5 for chlorine...how would I test to confirm I am at FC 10+? Do I do a 50/50 pool water with bottled water and double up the result?

I keep my FC at around 9-10 with a CYA of 70. At your CYA you can easily keep it at 11 (pH testing will be harder). By keeping you FC lower you are risking an algae outbreak.

 

[Katodude]

Question, and I hope im asking this correctly... Keeping my FC at 11 with my CYA at 100, would that be the same as having FC at around 4-6 with a CYA of 30 in regards to chlorine effects on the body such as rashes and irritation? I hope the question made sense.

Yes you question makes sense. And yes it is similar. Your target FC is 11-13, I would err on the high side ie 13. You need a FAS/DPD tester. Go buy a TF-100 kit from TFKits. You will need it to maintain a pool with that CYA. It will be a struggle but it is possible. You need to keep your FC high, if you panic and think it just seems high you will lose the battle.

 

[MiguelACA]

I believe I have that test kit, I bought it at leslies but the stuff is all taylor branded. I just had the wife test chlorine and pH. pH came in at 7.2 so I have turned on the bubblers to start aerating and get it higher. The FC came in at 5+, which by my calculations and pool math, the amount I added this morning should've brought it up to around 8ppm. I will use 50/50 bottled water/pool water later and double up the result to get a more accurate reading and adjust accordingly. but it seems im within range. Aerating will bring up pH and ill adjust the CH today as well. Baby steps lol

Yes you question makes sense. And yes it is similar. Your target FC is 11-13, I would err on the high side ie 13. You need a FAS/DPD tester. Go buy a TF-100 kit from TFKits. You will need it to maintain a pool with that CYA. It will be a struggle but it is possible. You need to keep your FC high, if you panic and think it just seems high you will lose the battle.

 

[mknauss]

I believe I have that test kit,

You are missing the FAS-DPD test kit if you bought the re-branded Taylor K2005.
See FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test

 

[MiguelACA]

so, further reading and research, I don't have the fas/dpd test for high chlorine levels. I will order one if leslies doesn't have one in stock.

 

[MiguelACA]

yea, i'll have to pick one up. I believe the kit I have, the pH test is accurate as long as the FC is less than 10ppm?

You are missing the FAS-DPD test kit if you bought the re-branded Taylor K2005.
See FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test

 

[mknauss]

the pH test is accurate as long as the FC is less than 10ppm

If it is the K2005 version. What reagent is used for the pH?

 

[Katodude]

Yes, but due to your high CYA you cannot keep your FC below 10.

 

[MiguelACA]

I am not sure, I'll have to check once I am back home.

Would I pH meter be useful in this situation? I can get the FAS/DPD to test the higher chlorine levels, and the pH meter to test the pH. I'll start working on draining the pool ASAP, but need something in the meantime.

Thank you all for the replies and help!

If it is the K2005 version. What reagent is used for the pH?

 

[BowserB]

Miguel, what test tool are you using for chlorine? For accuracy and readings above 5, you should have the test that uses powder mixed in 10 ml of pool water, and you count the drops until the pink water turns clear. If you don't have powder in your kit--you just mix drops into the pool water in a tube and match the color--you are not going to get a valid result over 5ppm. That's why the TF-100 kit was recommended. If you want to just get what you need for FC and CC, you can get the powder (Taylor R-0870 DPD Powder) and R-0871 Reagent from Amazon. If you want to also test for combined chloramines, then you'll need R-0003 also. These are all Taylor products. While you're ordering, you should also consider the Taylor SpeedStir. It makes mixing SOOOO much easier. Makes a huge difference in the tests where you have to drop, swirl, drop, swirl, drop, swirl and all the while counting the drops.

Hermann, where are you in Katy? I'm on Avenue A in the city, and we didn't get anything near 8 inches of rain!

 

[mknauss]

A pH meter is unaffected by FC level.

Be ware that pH meters must be calibrated. Often.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Miguel,

So what keeps you from draining half of your pool.. It is 5K gallons of water..

I live in Texas and can refill my 17K pool for about $50 bucks..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[MiguelACA]

Pool math says I need at least 8ppm...think I can get away with that for now? ideally, 11 is what I want to be at, but until I can accurately test at that level, I feel im stuck at a minimum

Yes, but due to your high CYA you cannot keep your FC below 10.

is there a meter you recommend? how often do they have to be calibrated?

A pH meter is unaffected by FC level.
Be ware that pH meters must be calibrated. Often.

I only have the drops test, no powder.
so Taylor R-0870 DPD Powder and R-0871 Reagent is all I need? im not concerned with CC just yet.
the speed stir is on my wish list lol, just might have to get it now!

Miguel, what test tool are you using for chlorine? For accuracy and readings above 5, you should have the test that uses powder mixed in 10 ml of pool water, and you count the drops until the pink water turns clear. If you don't have powder in your kit--you just mix drops into the pool water in a tube and match the color--you are not going to get a valid result over 5ppm. That's why the TF-100 kit was recommended. If you want to just get what you need for FC and CC, you can get the powder (Taylor R-0870 DPD Powder) and R-0871 Reagent from Amazon. If you want to also test for combined chloramines, then you'll need R-0003 also. These are all Taylor products. While you're ordering, you should also consider the Taylor SpeedStir. It makes mixing SOOOO much easier. Makes a huge difference in the tests where you have to drop, swirl, drop, swirl, drop, swirl and all the while counting the drops.
Hermann, where are you in Katy? I'm on Avenue A in the city, and we didn't get anything near 8 inches of rain!

 

[MiguelACA]

Time really. I haven't had to drain/refill so I am unsure at how long either takes. I do have an auto-fill and auto drain on it though...I wonder if I leave a hose in the shallow end pumping water in and let the auto-drain dump the excess in the deep end might work?

thoughts?

Miguel,

So what keeps you from draining half of your pool.. It is 5K gallons of water..

I live in Texas and can refill my 17K pool for about $50 bucks..

Thanks,

Jim R.