almost 3 year old hayward pump dead?

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J

jhrrld

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Jul 14, 2014
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Oologah OK
Saturday afternoon I set about to clean my cartridge filter system and once done I notice my pump will not start back up but just hums for a few seconds and cuts off until i reset breaker. I can spin the impeller by hand both ways, so the motor is not seized.

Off to the internet and here and discover that the start capacitor is the likely problem. Buy a new one from local HVAC parts shop and install. Same thing. What do I check next? Everything looks new. Ugh.

Hayward SP3210X152BH
 
1. Verify you have correct voltage at the motor. 240V or 120V depending on how your motor is set up.
2. Verify the replacement capacitor is good. Check the uF with a meter that can read capacitance. Value should be real close to the value stamped on the side. Discharge the cap first!

If it is not those 2, then you probably have bad motor windings.
 
Do you have a picture of the wiring compartment?

Check the switch contacts.

The centrifugal switch is the copper V.

The vertex is where the contacts are.

You don't have to remove the switch, just clean the contacts.

Maybe try a different capacitor and make sure that the capacitor is wired correctly.

Make sure that the capacitor wires are away from the centrifugal switch.

 
jhrrld, wow this is creepy - my under 3 year old Hayward pump started doing this on Sunday. Mine is two speed. Fast speed buzzes and doesn't move. Low speed still works though. Capacitor seems the most likely - I'm scheduled to have a local company come by Thursday to take a look (they are the only ones that will perform motor repairs - all other places just replace them). I prefer not to try myself and instead see how they figure it out/install new parts. Also, if it ISN'T the capacitor, they will be there to evaluate - might even notice other problems. I really want to get it running - my solar panels and pool cleaner only work with the pump in fast speed.
 
goody222 said:
jhrrld, wow this is creepy - my under 3 year old Hayward pump started doing this on Sunday. Mine is two speed. Fast speed buzzes and doesn't move. Low speed still works though. Capacitor seems the most likely - I'm scheduled to have a local company come by Thursday to take a look (they are the only ones that will perform motor repairs - all other places just replace them). I prefer not to try myself and instead see how they figure it out/install new parts. Also, if it ISN'T the capacitor, they will be there to evaluate - might even notice other problems. I really want to get it running - my solar panels and pool cleaner only work with the pump in fast speed.
Click to expand...

Yeah this sucks, I'm going to try cleaning contacts as JamesW says. FWIW the HVAC company I got the replacement start capacitor from tested my old and new capacitors (both worked however the stock was reading on the low side of the uF rating). There is no +/- indication on either capacitor, does polarity matter?

We've had a huge dose of the Saharan dust since saturday, maybe that dirtied up my contacts. My pump is two speed as well and neither speed works, just humms.
 
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If the pump is dead, I'd suggest swapping to full variable speed. My pool had a 1 hp pump and I ran it about 14 hours a day. My savings moving to VS was about $800 a year. And that is what I paid for the VS pump on Amazon.

Check the relay in your control system and verify you have 240 going to the pump. Check wiring.
 
jhrrld said:
Yeah this sucks, I'm going to try cleaning contacts as JamesW says. FWIW the HVAC company I got the replacement start capacitor from tested my old and new capacitors (both worked however the stock was reading on the low side of the uF rating). There is no +/- indication on either capacitor, does polarity matter?

We've had a huge dose of the Saharan dust since saturday, maybe that dirtied up my contacts. My pump is two speed as well and neither speed works, just humms.
Click to expand...
How low?
Polarity does not matter on an AC capacitor.
 
Randrx2 said:
How low?
Polarity does not matter on an AC capacitor.
Click to expand...
He told me it was right inside the low range, that is all.

I have 240 at the pump. I cleaned what I thought needed cleaning, appeared to be clean.

IMG_1158.jpg

When the pump is switched on should the copper V plunge? If so that is not happening. I guess the motor is toast.

What are my options with replacing with a variable pump that will work with my control system and not have to redo plumbing?
 
It looks like you have two capacitors.

Which one did you replace?

There is a capacitor in the top hump.

The capacitor in the back is a start capacitor.

The capacitor in the top hump is a Run capacitor.

Either capacitor can make the motor not work.

Are you sure that you wired the new capacitor back like it was originally?

Do you have a picture of the motor label?
 
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I put in a Hayward Tristar VS 1.85 hp. They make two models. One has programmable controls on the pump. That is the one to get. You use your pool pump relay to feed power, but you program the run times and speeds on the pump. This has up to 8 programs. I am running my pump 24/7 with some short times at higher speeds for when I generally add chemicals and to get the skimmers working.

Amazon.com : Hayward W3SP3206VSP TriStar VS Variable-Speed Pool Pump, 1.85 HP : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : Hayward W3SP3206VSP TriStar VS Variable-Speed Pool Pump, 1.85 HP : Garden & Outdoor
amazon.com
I had a 1 hp pump running 16 hours a day! I did not realize that was costing me about $1000 per year. The VS uses about $235. And I have it fairly aggressively programmed. Milder programming could get you to $150/yr. That 2 HP pig has to be costing you some money.
 

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The pump is about 1.65 hp. On low speed, the power shouldn't be too high. Replacing the run capacitor will probably fix the current problem. When it's time to replace the pump, a 1.65 or 2.7 hp TriStar VS should fit the current plumbing setup and match the existing unions. Depending on the automation software revision, the software will probably work to control the Tristar VS.
 
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JamesW said:
It looks like you have two capacitors.

Which one did you replace?

There is a capacitor in the top hump.

The capacitor in the back is a start capacitor.

The capacitor in the top hump is a Run capacitor.

Either capacitor can make the motor not work.

Are you sure that you wired the new capacitor back like it was originally?

Do you have a picture of the motor label?
Click to expand...

I replaced the start capacitor. 100% sure I wired it the same.

I'll see if I can source the run capacitor next before i invest in a variable speed pump.

Screen Shot 2020-07-01 at 6.50.19 AM.png
 
Okay so local HVAC parts shop can order run cap, but might take a month. They told me to bring my run cap in and they will test it to see if it's the problem. (I did not think to grab it before i headed in for work) I'll do that early tomorrow morning and make a decision wether I order new replacement motor or go the VS route. I really would like to have my pool back to working for the weekend, but does not seem like a reality.
 
jhrrld said:
Okay so local HVAC parts shop can order run cap, but might take a month.
Click to expand...
That's ridiculous. Any HVAC company will have plenty of run capacitors. Any pool store will have them. Any motor repair company will have them. They're a very common part. Anyone who tells you that they're not available is not being truthful.
 

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