All levels normal, pool still dark green

[pabeader]

There really isn't an average per se. I've read of real short ones like a few days all the way up to multiple weeks and even into a month. It all depends on keeping the FC consistent, with no drops below SLAM level. Also, be sure to check all possible hiding places like stairs, ladders, lights, robots, cleaners, autofill area, pretty much anything that comes in contact with the pool water.

 

[mknauss]

Now is the tough part, Pool Owner Patience. I would not think that you would have any live algae on the walls anymore. Sounds like you are brushing and keeping your FC up at shock throughout the day.

 

[msdunkel]

Now is the tough part, Pool Owner Patience. I would not think that you would have any live algae on the walls anymore. Sounds like you are brushing and keeping your FC up at shock throughout the day.

Oddly enough throughout the entire process there was never any live algae on the walls, it's been 100% confined to resting on the bottom of the pool, the ladder wasn't even slimy. The algae is worst on the entry steps, and it accumulates along the liner seams at the bottom of the pool.

On the positive side, after a almost a year of being dead our pool light magically came back to life.

 

[mknauss]

few patches of algae in the morning

You stated the above. Then you stated

algae is worst on the entry steps,

Algae - wherever it is, is Algae. So do not get hung up on where it resides. A consistent shock level FC with brushing to disturb the algae to let the chlorine attack it is the path to success.

Take care.

 

[msdunkel]

Pool finally passed the overnight test. It looks great, now just waiting for the FC levels to drop down to 8-10 so we can start using it again. Thanks to everybody here who helped, I'd probably have lily pads by now if it wasn't for the knowledge shared here.

 

[mknauss]

waiting for the FC levels to drop down to 8-10 so we can start using it again

Why?

You can swim in the pool as long as the FC is at or below shock level, you can see the bottom of the pool, and the pH is between 7.2 and 7.8

 

[msdunkel]

Why?

You can swim in the pool as long as the FC is at or below shock level, you can see the bottom of the pool, and the pH is between 7.2 and 7.8

I didn't think it was safe to swim in a pool with that high a chlorine level.

 

[mknauss]

I didn't think it was safe to swim in a pool with that high a chlorine level.

The amount of active chlorine at shock level based on CYA is less than a public pool with 0 CYA and 1 ppm FC.

Take care.

 

[Pauls234]

It is safe to swim up to shock level, but also watch that ph. With fc over 10 the ph test can read falsely high. In other words, you may have in fact been in range when you got that 8.2 reading (with FC of 22). Be sure and test that as soon as you are below 10 on your fc.

 

[msdunkel]

good to know!

 

[msdunkel]

1 day after we finished (FC was 26), the FC is down to 15 with a CC of 1. Would you consider that a normal drop for just 1 day in the sun at a CYA of 65?

 

[YippeeSkippy]

A CC of 1 suggests there is still something in there.

A SLAM is finished when: OCLT of 1 or less, Water is completely clear, and CC is 0.5 or less.

Maddie

 

[msdunkel]

A CC of 1 suggests there is still something in there.

A SLAM is finished when: OCLT of 1 or less, Water is completely clear, and CC is 0.5 or less.

Maddie

You're right, I had somehow overlooked the CC part of the equation since it had been 0 or .5 every other time I'd measured it. I just went back out and got FC 12 and CC of 0 so I'm thinking if it wasn't done before it probably is now. I'll check the overnight drop again and see what happens.

 

[msdunkel]

Overnight drop of 0, CC of 0. Looks like a false alarm. Too bad we went to the store and bought 24 more gallons of bleach . I guess we're good on supplies for a while now.

 

[kimkats]

SWEET! Got any stone walk way that needs to be bleached clean??? LOL

Kim

 

[Steve_in_C]

How about the Bio-Active 14330 product to reduce CYA? No experience with it. The claim is to use bacteria to consume CYA. Chlorine has to be low enough to allow the bacteria to work. It appears to be innoculum with the right bacteria to consume the CYA. That's a good theory, but that doesn't mean it will work. Just tossing it out for thought..

Nevermind. I see your problem is better, for now.

 

[kimkats]

How about the Bio-Active 14330 product to reduce CYA? No experience with it. The claim is to use bacteria to consume CYA. Chlorine has to be low enough to allow the bacteria to work. It appears to be innoculum with the right bacteria to consume the CYA. That's a good theory, but that doesn't mean it will work. Just tossing it out for thought..

OH how we wanted that to work!!!! It would be wonderful and so helpful for so many. There was even one PO that they GAVE the BIo-active to use and "review". So far every one that has tried it found it to not work. Each one of them followed the directions to the letter and still no good

Kim

 

[msdunkel]

Thought I'd revive this instead of starting a new thread. Pool has been looking great for the past month, once again thanks for all the help. I'm now into a "normal" routine and wanted to see if my normal routine is well, normal.

I've found that adding bleach appears to raise the pH and lower the TA. I'm using about 15 lbs of baking soda a week to keep the TA at 90 or higher and about 40 ounces of muriatic acid every 2-3 days to keep the pH around 7.5. Probably adding an average of 121 ounces of bleach every day (CYA holding steady between 60 and 70). My inexperienced perception is I'm using a LOT of chemicals, can anybody comment on my usage?

 

[mknauss]

Bleach is relatively pH neutral. Are you testing pH right after you add the chlorine or before? Test before.

Also, let your TA drop and your pH should stabilize. You should not be adding baking soda and muriatic acid. Kind of going in circles. TA can get to as low as 50 or so and it should stabilize.

Take care.

 

[msdunkel]

Bleach is relatively pH neutral. Are you testing pH right after you add the chlorine or before? Test before.

Also, let your TA drop and your pH should stabilize. You should not be adding baking soda and muriatic acid. Kind of going in circles. TA can get to as low as 50 or so and it should stabilize.

Take care.

Thank you. I typically measure everything, then go to the pool math page, and then add all the chemicals recommended by that page. The pool math page says I want TA from 80-120 so I've been adding baking soda to get TA up, but my pH keeps going up over 7.8 so I've been adding acid to keep it at 7.5. If I understand what you're saying, adding acid and baking soda are counteracting each other and I should sacrifice the 80-120 TA goal for the 7.2-7.8 pH goal.