Algae That Won't Quit!

Jump to latest Follow Reply
L

lauraneal72

0
LifeTime Supporter
Aug 9, 2013
11
Hi Everyone,

I have been a member of this forum for a few years and have owned our home with this pool for over five years now. I am really struggling this year with keeping the algae out. I can get the water clear and looking nice, but within three days it will start coming back. That is after I put in algaecide that is supposed to last a week. I have tried both polyquat 60 and another that isn't copper based. I have also used a phosphate remover because we live with a lot of trees that drop junk in all year and it hasn't helped. The algae is a bright green color if that matters. Usually my cya level is 30 or below and I just tested it and it is 50 right now, when I thought it was closer to 30, so that could be some of the problem. It has been growing algae within a couple of days all season, even when the cya was at 30 or below. We were out of town for almost three weeks, so I've been using tri-chlor pucks in the automatic chlorinator this summer. It's just easier when I'm gone or busy and with this size of pool, the chlorine gets bulky. I've been shocking with a calcium-based shock so it doesn't raise the cya. The CC has not ever been over .5 even when I see algae actively growing, so I don't know what that means. It's been 0 for weeks. I have the TF-100 test kit. What suggestions do you have? I'm so tired of spending a lot of money and not being able to use the pool. Here are the current stats:

pH - 7.2
TA - 50 (I just got more baking soda to raise this, but I haven't had a problem with pH)
TC - 15 (Shocked it last night and expected this to be higher)
CC - 0
CYA - 50

Thanks!

Laura
 
I have done that this season a couple of times, but it still comes back. I suppose I need to raise the chlorine level now because my CYA is higher than I thought. But it was 30 a few weeks ago when I did it.
 
Algae is almost always the result of too little FC for your CYA level. With CYA at 50, you need to raise your FC to 20 and keep it there until you pass all three of the completion criteria for a SLAM:

1) overnight FC loss of 1 ppm or less
2) CC .5 or less
3) water is completely clear

Once you pass those tests, you can let your FC drop back to 4-5 ppm, but never let it get below 4.

Forget the algaecides and phosphate removers. They are a waste of money. Chlorine, preferably in the form of liquid bleach, is what your pool needs. You can use the pucks as long as you don't raise your CYA.

As for your CC readings of zero - there has to be some FC in your water to break down the organics and form CC. If you had algae but no CC, it's likely because your FC was very near or at zero as well.
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

Forget the algaecide and the phosphates.
Stop using the pucks now that you are home ... start using liquid chlorine.
Follow the SLAM process until you pass the 3 criteria to stop.
Maintain you FC above the minimum for your CYA level at all times and you should not get algae.
 
You stated that the algae was 'bright green'. Your water is cloudy, not clear? It matters, as clear, bright green water is typically a copper issue, especially if you have used copper algaecides in the past.

If cloudy and green water, SLAM away!

Take care.
 
AftonJeeper said:
Laura, have you read the SLAM article yet. Once you pass the OCLT you should be algae free. Remember to look for algae hiding around stairs, railings on wiers, and lights.

Edit: the calcium based shock does add CYA, and calcium to the pool so use it sparingly.
Click to expand...


I had no idea the calcium based shock had cya in it too! That's why it's getting so high. We've had to shock it so many times!

- - - Updated - - -

jeffchap said:
As for your CC readings of zero - there has to be some FC in your water to break down the organics and form CC. If you had algae but no CC, it's likely because your FC was very near or at zero as well.
Click to expand...

I suppose the FC could have been low at some point, but the last week or so it has been above 3 consistently, and last night it was at 10 with visible algae and no CC. I had left the filter running 24/7 with the chlorinator on and the chlorine level got pretty high.
 
I haven't used a copper algaecide since 2013. I use polyquat 60 for algaecide, except for one bottle of something else not copper based this year. My husband grabbed it and I haven't looked at it closely to determine what it is. The water is cloudy with algae now, but when it starts growing algae and stays very clear for a couple of days. The bottom and sides just start to look greenish. I thought the chlorine level was high enough between 2-5, but maybe not.
 
I don't think Calcium Hypo contains CYA, usually at least, maybe there's a product out there that does but I've never heard of it. Even in the link that was provided, it says nothing about cyanuric acid, CYA, being in Calcium Hypo. So that's out.

Your CYA is increasing because you are using trichlor, plain and simple.

If you're away for long period of time, get a automated liquid chlorinator like a Stenner or Rola-chem. They rely on electricity so you have to worry about the power going out when you aren't home. But it sounds like you have the type of automatic puck feeder that hooks up to your return water lines, those require electricity to your water pump to work as well.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
jblizzle said:
calcium-based chlorine (cal-hypo) does not add CYA, it only adds CH.

I still have not seen confirmation that you have actually follow the SLAM Process process and passed all 3 criteria to stop ...
Click to expand...

I have followed the SLAM process earlier this season and still got algae back. I will SLAM again with liquid chlorine that I will pick up today. I am so tired of having my pool at shock level or green more than half of this summer.

- - - Updated - - -

Does anyone think it could be a problem with my pump or filter since this year has been more of a struggle than previous years? It seems like my pool is the only one having trouble and this is my sixth season. I'm not a newbie at maintaining a pool. It's so frustrating.
 
lauraneal72 said:
I have followed the SLAM process earlier this season and still got algae back. I will SLAM again with liquid chlorine that I will pick up today. I am so tired of having my pool at shock level or green more than half of this summer.

- - - Updated - - -

Does anyone think it could be a problem with my pump or filter since this year has been more of a struggle than previous years? It seems like my pool is the only one having trouble and this is my sixth season. I'm not a newbie at maintaining a pool. It's so frustrating.
Click to expand...

They key to keeping a pool algae free is pretty simple. You have to test your FC frequently (ideally daily) and never let your FC level get to the minimum for your CYA level. Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

It can be frustrating to lug jugs of bleach and dose your pool manually. Trust me, I did it for several years and I have a big pool, too. I finally took the plunge and installed a SWG last year. SWGs are much more convenient. You still have to test FC and PH daily and manually add some chlorine after heavy use, but it easy. I just replastered my pool and I am back to lugging jugs while my plaster finishes curing. I can't wait until I can add salt and turn on my SWG.
 
Don't over think it. Algae = not enough chlorine. It really is that simple. Your pump and filter won't do anything except turn green if there is not enough chlorine in your water.

Complete the SLAM, contine to test FC daily, and stay above the minimum for your CYA and you will never see algae.
 
UPDATE: I've been doing the SLAM protocol on my pool since the evening of the 18th with very little, if any, visible difference. The algae is still bright green, the filter has been running nonstop, I'm keeping the chlorine at 20 ppm, I'm sweeping, it's costing me a lot, and I've just about had my fill of it. Ugh! I plan to check the CYA again, but I'm so frustrated, defeated, and tired. It literally makes me want to move just to get away from the pool. It's so much work and it's 100+ degrees and 80% or more humidity here this week and we can't even use it. I've been in the pool twice this summer and the kids have used it maybe four times. I have been successful using the TFP method in the past, but I am struggling with algae no matter what I do this season.
 
How often are you testing your FC? What have been your FC results? SLAMing involves testing FC and adding liquid chlorine frequently at first, like hourly, then as your FC holds at the hourly interval, test and adjust every 2 hours, etc. I know this hard to do if you have to work. It is great to really tackle it when you have days off of work. Every time your FC goes below SLAM level, the algae is able to regrow and multiply which is why hitting it hard and often is important.

Sometimes it is hard to see the difference, so try to take a photo of the stairs at the same angle and same time of day. This will help show your progress.

As you progress on your SLAM and have killed most of the algae, sand filters take a much longer to filter out dead algae carcasses. Sometimes adding a little DE to your filter will help. Make sure you don't leave your filter unattended when adding DE as the pressure can increase rapidly. Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter

Lastly, make sure that you are not backwashing your filter too soon or too late. Sand filters work best when they are a little dirty, but you don't want too long as it will decrease flow to the point where filtering is no longer efficient. Backwash whenever your filter is between 20 and 25% above your clean pressure.
 
Can you post a picture of the pool? Where is the algae, on the walls, floor, etc? Is the water itself green colored? Is the water cloudy or clear?
 
kcindc said:
How often are you testing your FC? What have been your FC results? SLAMing involves testing FC and adding liquid chlorine frequently at first, like hourly, then as your FC holds at the hourly interval, test and adjust every 2 hours, etc. I know this hard to do if you have to work. It is great to really tackle it when you have days off of work. Every time your FC goes below SLAM level, the algae is able to regrow and multiply which is why hitting it hard and often is important.

Sometimes it is hard to see the difference, so try to take a photo of the stairs at the same angle and same time of day. This will help show your progress.

As you progress on your SLAM and have killed most of the algae, sand filters take a much longer to filter out dead algae carcasses. Sometimes adding a little DE to your filter will help. Make sure you don't leave your filter unattended when adding DE as the pressure can increase rapidly. Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter

Lastly, make sure that you are not backwashing your filter too soon or too late. Sand filters work best when they are a little dirty, but you don't want too long as it will decrease flow to the point where filtering is no longer efficient. Backwash whenever your filter is between 20 and 25% above your clean pressure.
Click to expand...

I have been testing morning and night for FC and honestly if I have to test more often than that, I might go crazy. It does occasionally fall below 20 ppm to maybe 18, but then it's back up to 22 when I add the gallon of 10% bleach. I've effectively done SLAM this way in the past. I will try to be more up on adding chlorine, but honestly the chemistry costs a lot just to check FC and CC. It will cost me $30 just to get the refills and I'm tired of spending money. I want to wait to get it in the spring and so I am only testing twice a day.

In the spring, I have my husband take a picture every day so I can see the progress. It is really helpful. I will get a picture to post soon, but the pool looks like it's about 1/2 the way to clear from when we open it in the spring, meaning it will probably take another 1 1/2 weeks to get it swim ready.

I do have some DE I could add to the filter, but I'll have to think about it. It's another project that's a little risky because I have to open everything up and then something could break or start leaking.

Normal pressure for our filter is 16 psi, so I normally wait to backwash until 26 since I was told to wait until 10 psi over. I had no idea I should backwash so frequently, and have been told not to do it so often. To backwash at 20 psi is something I've never done on purpose. I can do that easily enough, just didn't know it was beneficial.

Thanks for the tips!

- - - Updated - - -

JoyfulNoise said:
Can you post a picture of the pool? Where is the algae, on the walls, floor, etc? Is the water itself green colored? Is the water cloudy or clear?
Click to expand...

The algae is everywhere. The water is slightly clearer than it was a few days ago and the algae is on the sides and bottom of the pool. When I brush it, the algae forms a very green cloud, and I can't see to the bottom of the deep end. I can barely see the bottom after it has sat undisturbed for hours.
 
Certainly sounds like a persistent case of algae. My only concern is that green algae is not that hard to kill as chlorine is very effective at killing that particular kind of algae. So that makes me think one of your chemical levels is off, like too much or too little CYA, or there's some problem with your circulation due to a clogged filter or returns that are not pointing in the right directions. Dead spots in the circulation can allow FC to drop below minimum values and give algae the time to reproduce. However, at 20ppm FC, you should be seeing some clearing.

Please post a current reading of CYA and then we can advise on a better strategy.

Also, did you recently use the phosphate remover or was that something that was just tried a long time ago? Do you happen to know what phosphate levels you have?
 
I also suspect that your CYA is higher than you think it is. I would retest it ASAP.

There's really no reason to test CC while your water is still green, so you might as well skip that and just test FC. That'll save you some money on reagent.
 
jeffchap said:
I also suspect that your CYA is higher than you think it is. I would retest it ASAP.

There's really no reason to test CC while your water is still green, so you might as well skip that and just test FC. That'll save you some money on reagent.
Click to expand...

I retested CYA and it's between 50-55, so about what I thought. I don't test for CC now. It's been .5 or less every time I check it anyway.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply