Algae and Timing of Filter Cleaning

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GMusic

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May 29, 2018
59
Dallas, TX
I have a situation with unbalanced water chemistry, algae and a filter which needs to be cleaned. My plan was to shock the pool today and clean the cartridge filter in a day or two after the algae has been eliminated or reduced. I did not want to put algae right back into a clean filter.

I am working on my pool as I write this so I need to make a decision. Am I looking at the timing of the filter cleaning the right way or should I consider cleaning the filter at the same time as shocking?

Thank you.
 
I don't think you're going to have much choice. If you perform a SLAM Process, your filter is going to load up with dead algae and require cleaning, probably several times. So fix the pH and hit it with bleach and start brushing and vacuuming. The pressure gauge and the return flow will tell you when it's time to clean the filter.
 
As mentioned above. Let your psi pressure dictate to you when to clean the cartridge filter, because you want it a little dirty to filter out finer suspended particles. There is a balance of letting your filter get dirty enough to filtrate better, and letting it get too clogged and raising pressure.Typically for cartridge you want to clean 20 to 25% psi above clean operating pressure. The clearer the pool gets, the less the gunk will build up over long intervals such as a 24 hr pump run. If you still have issues clearing the water let me know I have a few pool hacks work around with skimmer socks or hair nets on the skimmer, and a 5 or 1 micron bag on the return jet. But first I want to see if your filter can clear this on its own. Can you take a picture of the pool for us so we can gauge what state it is in?
 
Just out of curiosity are you going by your definition of shocking a pool or TFP's definition of shocking a pool? TFP recommend bringing FC to shock levels with liquid chlorine sodium hypochlorire only. Bleach or Pool Chlorine, no DiChlor, or Tri Chlor pucks, or Cal Hypo packets unless Calcium Hardness is needed.

Shocking is a process in elevating your free chlorine in accordance with your CYA level to sanitize. Here is the chlorine to cya chart for your convenience.

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

SLAM ing a pool is maintaining that elevated FC until the three criteria are met. OCLT test passed, Water is clear, and Combined Chlorine or Chloramines is 0.5 or below.

You may have realized all of this already. I just want to ensure that you have a clear definition of what to do and what everything means
 
RobertScalchi said:
Just out of curiosity are you going by your definition of shocking a pool or TFP's definition of shocking a pool? TFP recommend bringing FC to shock levels with liquid chlorine sodium hypochlorire only. Bleach or Pool Chlorine, no DiChlor, or Tri Chlor pucks, or Cal Hypo packets unless Calcium Hardness is needed.

Shocking is a process in elevating your free chlorine in accordance with your CYA level to sanitize. Here is the chlorine to cya chart for your convenience.

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

SLAM ing a pool is maintaining that elevated FC until the three criteria are met. OCLT test passed, Water is clear, and Combined Chlorine or Chloramines is 0.5 or below.

You may have realized all of this already. I just want to ensure that you have a clear definition of what to do and what everything means
Click to expand...

I really appreciate that. I am in the process of learning the TFP system while simultaneously trying to work with my pool service to get the current problems with the pool fixed immediately. For this round, they put some kind of shock in yesterday. Apparently, it was not completely dissolved and it combined with some dirt and settled on the bottom of the pool yesterday. That concerns me.

Pursuant to the previous requests, I am posting a couple of pictures of how the pool looks today, including the shock settled on the pool floor. Thanks.

- - - Updated - - -
IMG_2269.JPGIMG_2270.jpg
 
Is there any way to determine specifically what kind of "shock" product your pool company put in your pool? Is there an invoice? The reason I ask this is because there are
2-3 types of "shock" granules or powders. Calcium Hypochlorite which raises calcium levels. DiChlor which significantly raises CYA or Cyanuric Acid levels in your pool, and we don't want that because too high of a CYA level will require complexly higher levels of chlorine to properly sanitize. The last one is Lithium Hypochlorite which is expensive.

I can't see the granules in your photos due to water refection unfortunately.

Most importantly, have you read through TFP's Pool School and the ABC's of Water Chemistry? And have you ordered a proficient test kit such as the Taylor TF-100 or K2006-C

We really could use some pool stat numbers over here to further assist you, and ensure your "pool service" company is doing right by you and your pool.

TFP's methods are commonmy found grocers items, instead of pool stores expensive products which complicate your water chemistry in the long run to aid a short term solution. TFP members in general exclusively uses bleach, or liquid pool chlorine also known as Sodium Hypochlorite. Borax or Washing Soda to raise PH and Baking soda to raise Total Alkalinity, including muratic acid to lower PH or total alkalinity when necessary, and CYA or Cyanuric Acid, also known as Stabilizer or Conditioner to raise levels when necessary. Please read Pool School and ABC's of water chemistry and order one of the test kits mentioned above before adding anything further other than bleach into your pool. You as well as we need to know what your current water chemistry is currently at to get you dialed in properly, and prevent any further issues, and solve any current ones. Your test kit will give you total control with our assistance here over your pool and help you to better understand water chemistry. It will be the most important and best 50-70 dollar investment you can make saving you $$$ in "pool products" and "pool service" companies. Our goal and mission here at TFP is to empower, educate, inform and simplify pool owners into a regiment of maintaining their pool with as much efficiency and minimal cost as possible.
 
Is there any way to determine specifically what kind of "shock" product your pool company put in your pool? Is there an invoice? The reason I ask this is because there are
2-3 types of "shock" granules or powders. Calcium Hypochlorite which raises calcium levels. DiChlor which significantly raises CYA or Cyanuric Acid levels in your pool, and we don't want that because too high of a CYA level will require complexly higher levels of chlorine to properly sanitize. The last one is Lithium Hypochlorite which is expensive.

I can't see the granules in your photos due to water refection unfortunately.

Most importantly, have you read through TFP's Pool School and the ABC's of Water Chemistry? And have you ordered a proficient test kit such as the Taylor TF-100 or K2006-C

We really could use some pool stat numbers over here to further assist you, and ensure your "pool service" company is doing right by you and your pool.

TFP's methods are commonmy found grocers items, instead of pool stores expensive products which complicate your water chemistry in the long run to aid a short term solution. TFP members in general exclusively uses bleach, or liquid pool chlorine also known as Sodium Hypochlorite. Borax or Washing Soda to raise PH and Baking soda to raise Total Alkalinity, including muratic acid to lower PH or total alkalinity when necessary, and CYA or Cyanuric Acid, also known as Stabilizer or Conditioner to raise levels when necessary. Please read Pool School and ABC's of water chemistry and order one of the test mentioned above before adding anything further other than bleach into your pool. You as well as we need to know what your current water chemistry is currently at to get you dialed in properly, and prevent any further issues, and solve any current ones.

Our goal and mission here at TFP is to inform, educate and empower pool owners into taking total control of their pool by the most efficient and cost saving means.
 

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GMusic
Algae and Timing of Filter Cleaning

I have a situation with unbalanced water chemistry, algae and a filter which needs to be cleaned. My plan was to shock the pool today and clean the cartridge filter in a day or two after the algae has been eliminated or reduced. I did not want to put algae right back into a clean filter.

I am working on my pool as I write this so I need to make a decision. Am I looking at the timing of the filter cleaning the right way or should I consider cleaning the filter at the same time as shocking?

Thank you.
Click to expand...


Richard320 said:
I don't think you're going to have much choice. If you perform a SLAM Process, your filter is going to load up with dead algae and require cleaning, probably several times. So fix the pH and hit it with bleach and start brushing and vacuuming. The pressure gauge and the return flow will tell you when it's time to clean the filter.
Click to expand...

For future reference, my technique for killing algae with Cartridge Filters and DE Filters that do not have a multiport valve is this:

Use a submersible pump to circulate and add chems. Live algae will clog any filter faster than dead algae. Live algae just about ruins a cartridge filter, properly cleaned or not, it shortens the lifespan of the cartridge element.

So use a good submersible pump right off the bat, and use it when you are cleaning your filter element, so you can continue to maintain your shock level during your SLAM process.

This method uses less DE (A LOT less) as well as less energy constantly cleaning the elements. Having "2 sets of cartridges to swap in and out" while you kill algae means you now have two sets of cartridges that won't function very well for very long.

Anyway, those are my tips. I purchased a very good sub-pump from the local big-box hardware place for around $90 bucks.

Also to the pool filter manufacturers/designers: EVERY inground pool filter and pump combination should include a multiport valve option between the pump and filter. It may not be "in demand" in a lot of the country that doesn't have to winterize their pools, but for the areas of the country that open to swamps, it is an invaluable option: set to recirculate, SLAM, vacuum to waste, Filter. But then ahhh, a lot less cartridges and DE will be purchased... its collusion.... LOL
 
RobertScalchi said:
Is there any way to determine specifically what kind of "shock" product your pool company put in your pool? Is there an invoice? The reason I ask this is because there are
2-3 types of "shock" granules or powders. Calcium Hypochlorite which raises calcium levels. DiChlor which significantly raises CYA or Cyanuric Acid levels in your pool, and we don't want that because too high of a CYA level will require complexly higher levels of chlorine to properly sanitize. The last one is Lithium Hypochlorite which is expensive.


I can't see the granules in your photos due to water refection unfortunately.

Most importantly, have you read through TFP's Pool School and the ABC's of Water Chemistry? And have you ordered a proficient test kit such as the Taylor TF-100 or K2006-C

We really could use some pool stat numbers over here to further assist you, and ensure your "pool service" company is doing right by you and your pool.

TFP's methods are commonmy found grocers items, instead of pool stores expensive products which complicate your water chemistry in the long run to aid a short term solution. TFP members in general exclusively uses bleach, or liquid pool chlorine also known as Sodium Hypochlorite. Borax or Washing Soda to raise PH and Baking soda to raise Total Alkalinity, including muratic acid to lower PH or total alkalinity when necessary, and CYA or Cyanuric Acid, also known as Stabilizer or Conditioner to raise levels when necessary. Please read Pool School and ABC's of water chemistry and order one of the test mentioned above before adding anything further other than bleach into your pool. You as well as we need to know what your current water chemistry is currently at to get you dialed in properly, and prevent any further issues, and solve any current ones.

Our goal and mission here at TFP is to inform, educate and empower pool owners into taking total control of their pool by the most efficient and cost saving means.
Click to expand...

Thank you.

I do not know what kind of shock they used. I will definitely find out.

I don't have a closer shot of the granules. There are some reflections in the photos, but the white stuff (technical term) in the photos appeared to be a powdery shock type substance sitting on the bottom. I brushed the pool twice today to dissolve the shock. I am running my pump constantly until everything is fully dissolved.

I was previously most concerned about the algae. Now that they put in undissolved shock in my pool, I am most concerned about that.

I will get the water tests asap and will post the results. I will also be very careful about what I put in the pool, or allow to be put in the pool, until this gets under control.

I have read through most of TFP's pool chemistry pages. I am, however, still trying to piece everything together.

I meant to order a test kit yesterday, but I got so caught up with all the problems that I did not have time.

- - - Updated - - -

frustratedpoolmom said:
For future reference, my technique for killing algae with Cartridge Filters and DE Filters that do not have a multiport valve is this:

Use a submersible pump to circulate and add chems. Live algae will clog any filter faster than dead algae. Live algae just about ruins a cartridge filter, properly cleaned or not, it shortens the lifespan of the cartridge element.

So use a good submersible pump right off the bat, and use it when you are cleaning your filter element, so you can continue to maintain your shock level during your SLAM process.

This method uses less DE (A LOT less) as well as less energy constantly cleaning the elements. Having "2 sets of cartridges to swap in and out" while you kill algae means you now have two sets of cartridges that won't function very well for very long.

Anyway, those are my tips. I purchased a very good sub-pump from the local big-box hardware place for around $90 bucks.

Also to the pool filter manufacturers/designers: EVERY inground pool filter and pump combination should include a multiport valve option between the pump and filter. It may not be "in demand" in a lot of the country that doesn't have to winterize their pools, but for the areas of the country that open to swamps, it is an invaluable option: set to recirculate, SLAM, vacuum to waste, Filter. But then ahhh, a lot less cartridges and DE will be purchased... its collusion.... LOL
Click to expand...

Thanks for the algae tips.

I am in Texas so I have not had to winterize my pool. I used to live in Ohio and winterization was a major issue up there.
 
Depending on the type of cartridge filter system you have. If you do not have a multiport valve like found on a DE or sand system to recirculate without filtering hence bypassing the filter directly. Or option of vaccuming to waste. I have another workaround for that if you have a drain plug on your cartridge filter system. Here is my setup. The valve that the blue drain hose is attached to, what used to be there is a drain plug. I installed a valve there to have the ability to vaccum to waste if needed.

You can simply recirculate the algae infected water in the pool by completely removing the cartridge filter, thus not affecting the integrity of the cartridge filter, and add on a hairnet or skimmer sock on the skimmer basket to catch algae, in addition to putting a 5 or 1 micron bag on your return jet to filter out the algae.
 

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