Algae advise please

Minke

Member
Jun 20, 2024
16
Caribbean
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi, I'm new to pool maintenance and have been put in charge of maintaining a recently replastered 11.000 gallon square pool (on a Caribbean island), that uses a sand filter. I need to get the chemistry up to standard! Please note that the closest pool experts/ shops are on a neighboring island, where various chemicals were already purchased.

I have a test kit (not a specific brand) for chlorine, pH and alkalinity by using drops of reagents and also 2 different kinds of test strips (one is actually for drinking water). Have to admit, I find it hard to read the exact values by comparing colors (see pictures). I'm ready to order the Taylor K-2006 via Amazon, but that will take around 3 weeks to get here.
In the meantime I need advise to start some sort of treatment ASAP, because I see algae starting to grow alongside the bottom edges (between floor and wall) of the pool. Also around the jets and some random spots on the floor/steps.

I realize SLAM is necessary and have read about that process, but where to start exactly seeing the current chemistry levels? Please see pictures of yesterday's test strip results.
FC is close to 0, CYA is kind of unclear to me, but probably between 0-20. And pH seems high, over 8.2.
How best to adjust these levels and in what order? Lower pH by adding muriatic acid, then raise chlorine and add stabilizer (till which level, SLAM level)?

Next question about raising chlorine: I know liquid chlorine is advised to raise FC, but unless I can use regular Clorox bleach (active ingredient is 3.65% Sodium Hypoclorite and the rest Other "unspecified" ingredients, "yielding 3.47% Available Chlorine"? I do have granulated "Klor-Shock 90", which is a dichlor, no stabilizer, with active ingredient calcium hypo chlorite 90%. Seeing that the CYA needs to raise as well, might this work also?

I thank you in advance for your advise and help!

20240620_125520.jpg 20240620_125539.jpg 20240621_111343.jpg

20240621_110857.jpg20240621_110910.jpg
 
Hi Mike and welcome to TFP! :wave: I understand your situation. James is addressing your poolmath/cal-hypo concern. Right now it's important to do only what is needed until you can get the K-2006 there. Speaking of that, be sure to order the K-2006C. The "C" is vey important because the bottles are larger and should save you money in the long run.

As to the chemicals, I would only focus on two things right now - maintain some sort of FC level (between 4-5 ppm) and keeping the pH anywhere between 7.2-7.8. That's all. You obviously can't start the SLAM yet, nor adjust many other chemicals. As you have already learned, the test strips are basically useless. That pH drop test is fine though.

Continue to brush all areas of the pool and do your best to maintain a simple FC level for now. Keep the pH from going out side those ranges and you should be okay for a while.
 
No such thing.

Show the product label.
There is no mention of ingredients on the product label. I asked the supplier (SXM Pools - apparently they label the stuff themselves, with only their name and some warnings on it) and this is what they told me.
 

Attachments

  • 20240621_135209.jpg
    20240621_135209.jpg
    274.9 KB · Views: 10
  • 20240621_135215.jpg
    20240621_135215.jpg
    252.3 KB · Views: 10
Hi Mike and welcome to TFP! :wave: I understand your situation. James is addressing your poolmath/cal-hypo concern. Right now it's important to do only what is needed until you can get the K-2006 there. Speaking of that, be sure to order the K-2006C. The "C" is vey important because the bottles are larger and should save you money in the long run.

As to the chemicals, I would only focus on two things right now - maintain some sort of FC level (between 4-5 ppm) and keeping the pH anywhere between 7.2-7.8. That's all. You obviously can't start the SLAM yet, nor adjust many other chemicals. As you have already learned, the test strips are basically useless. That pH drop test is fine though.

Continue to brush all areas of the pool and do your best to maintain a simple FC level for now. Keep the pH from going out side those ranges and you should be okay for a while.
Thanks! Should I lower pH first before raising FC?
 
It looks like calcium hypochlorite.

There is no such thing as 90% calcium hypochlorite.

Ask the manufacturer for clarification.

Note: Never mix two different types of chlorine together.

Never mix chemicals from two different packages together even if you think that they are the same product.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
 
Ask them to clarify.

The label says calcium hypochlorite.

You cannot have dichlor and calcium hypochlorite in the same container or mixed or combined or the product would blow up.
I guess the lady made a mistake mentioning dichlor and it's just the cal-hypo then, as it says on the label. But you say 90% is impossible?
 
"Pure" samples of calcium hypochlorite have 99.2% active chlorine.

65% and 73% are typical for "Available Chlorine".

It is unlikely that calcium hypochlorite is more than 73%.

90% is very unlikely.

90% is more likely to be trichlor.

Maybe the manufacturer has no idea what their product is.

Ask them to provide exact details about what the product is.


1719001947798.png

1719001584734.png

1719001717128.png

1719001847628.png
 
Hi Mike and welcome to TFP! :wave: I understand your situation. James is addressing your poolmath/cal-hypo concern. Right now it's important to do only what is needed until you can get the K-2006 there. Speaking of that, be sure to order the K-2006C. The "C" is vey important because the bottles are larger and should save you money in the long run.

As to the chemicals, I would only focus on two things right now - maintain some sort of FC level (between 4-5 ppm) and keeping the pH anywhere between 7.2-7.8. That's all. You obviously can't start the SLAM yet, nor adjust many other chemicals. As you have already learned, the test strips are basically useless. That pH drop test is fine though.

Continue to brush all areas of the pool and do your best to maintain a simple FC level for now. Keep the pH from going out side those ranges and you should be okay for a while.
An update on the situation: have been adding liquid chlorine 6% for 4 days now, total of 380 oz (11 ltr). And daily brushing. The results are slow and small. Also tried lowering pH by adding muriatic acid, slight change as well. Yesterday's pH was lower, but had some rain last night so maybe that countered the effect?

I suspect CYA is low so probably lose a lot of chlorine to the sun. Shall I start adding stabilizer while raising FC?

I hope my Taylor test kit will arrive this weekend so I can start slamming! 💪
 

Attachments

  • InShot_20240625_194437637.jpg
    InShot_20240625_194437637.jpg
    479.1 KB · Views: 3
  • InShot_20240625_195109273.jpg
    InShot_20240625_195109273.jpg
    681.5 KB · Views: 2
  • 20240624_171539.jpg
    20240624_171539.jpg
    359.8 KB · Views: 2
  • 20240625_181514.jpg
    20240625_181514.jpg
    456.1 KB · Views: 2
  • 20240625_181559.jpg
    20240625_181559.jpg
    376.8 KB · Views: 2

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.