A pool that hates chlorine

FrankieKat

Well-known member
Jul 3, 2023
62
Ohio
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello everyone! I've been reading this forum for a while now and have learned a lot of great information, though I'm having a problem that I cannot seem to find an exact answer to.

TL;DR: History

I have a rectangular in-ground pool about 3 years old, approximately 18,000 gallons. This was installed by the previous owner and this is the second season for me. It is chlorine, has a sand filter, retractable cover, chlorinator and UV filter. We keep the pool covered nearly all of the time, opening it when we swim and closing it afterwards. Last year the pool was maintained bi-weekly by the company that installed it, and they opened and closed it for the seasons each time. I had been doing the general chemical maintenance and checking last in between their visits and didn't really have any issues. This year they informed me that they just don't have the resources to do pool maintenance visits and to find someone else. Given my experience last year I figured I could handle it in the meantime while I found someone else.

This year when they opened the pool at the beginning of May after being covered since end of September it was pretty murky and teal colored. They added an algicide and a lot of shock and said to give it a few days and should be fine. It seemed to clear up after a few days though given the cooler spring the water just wasn't warm enough to swim so it got very little use in May. I did periodically test it with my test strips from the previous season but was getting somewhat erratic results so just figured they were no longer good and needed new ones.

During a particularly rainy week we were out of town for about 5 days and when I came back the pool was back to being murky and teal again. The PSI on the filter was 23 (should be max 20) and when I backwashed it, it had a noticeable smell. Afterwards the PSI was back down to normal. Over the course of a few steps, I added the recommended amount of HTC algicide, shock and clarifier and waited. After a several days it began to slowly clear up, however that's when the problem really started...

The problem (finally)...

In short, the pool does not and will not hold chlorine. Over the course of the past three weeks I have probably added 20+ gallons of liquid (10%) and 2 maybe 3 containers of granulated. Consistently after about 4-6 hours the free chlorine was down to below 1, sometimes looking like 0. The CC seems to remain proportional to the FC where when one is high the other is high and when low they both are.

I continued to pour 4 to 5 gallons per day seeing the same results. We brought in a new pool company and they reported on the first visit that the pH was also very low (below their lowest measurement on their strips). I had seen this as well but was very inconsistent across the different types/brands of test strips I had used.

Intestingly, the water is crystal clear. Like... glass clear. You can see the bottom of the deep end almost as though there's no water in it. The pool company left in their notes that the water looks "awesome" and "extremely clear".

Recently I started to keep much more detailed notes, but assume unless otherwise I added at least 10ppm's worth of chlorine a day. Here's what I have in writing:

6/23: Pool company
Reported: pH < 6.2, FC < 0.5, Alkalinity ~ 80, CYA 0 (This would have been after I had added 1 or 2 gallons of liquid chlorine earlier that day).
Added: 2 gal shock, 1 lb pH plus

6/29: Pool company
Reported: ph < 6.2, FC < 0.5, Alkalinity ~ 80, CYA 0 (same exactly as last time)
Added: 2lbs "yellow out", 1 lb ph plus, 2 gal shock, 1lb CYA.

6/30: Added 4 lbs ph plus. After several hours the pH was still below scale on test strips.

(Finally purchased a Taylor K-2006 kit so started using it)

7/1: 1:30pm
pH < 6.8 (bottom of scale) took 17 drops of R0006 to get to pH 7.4. According to book that means ~10 lbs of pH up should be added.
FAS-DPD: 2 drops to colorless (0.4ppm FC), +5 drops to pink again, 5-6 drops to colorless again (1.0-1.2ppm CC).
CYA: approx 90 (not 100% sure what it means by "black dot 'just barely' disappears" though).
+ 2 gal 10% liquid chlorine

7/1 7:30pm
Test strip: pH ~6.4, CC ~3, FC ~3-5.
TA: 13 drops = 130 ?
Added: 4 lbs pH up

7/2 9:00am
pH: ~7.2
FAS-DPD: 2 drops to colorless (0.4ppm FC), 2 drops to pink again (0.8ppm CC)
Added: 4 lbs pH up

7/2 11:00am
Added: 1 gal 10%
pH: ~7.5

7/2 1:30pm
pH: ~7.4
FAS-DPD: 7.5 ppm FC, 1.0 ppm CC (at this point I felt like some progress because it was the longest I'd ever seen it hold chlorine).

7/2 3pm: small pool party, 3 swimmers for about an hour.

7/3 9:30am
ph: ~7.4
Test strip: FC/TC off scale low.
TA: 80-120
Added: 1 gal 10% liquid
Noted water level was at 1/3 skimmer height so added about 45 mins from hose and now up to just over 1/2 skimmer height.

Summary

While the pH seems to be holding steady still seeing chlorine fall. We have had relatively little swimming this season and this chlorine will fall regardless of whether or not anyone goes in so I don't think it's swimmer contamination. Also, the pool is covered nearly 24/7 so it isn't contaminated by rain, nor does it receive UV light. Chlorine also drops down over night. Being that I didn't feel confident in the results from the test strips I was reluctant to add additional stabilizer in case lock was a problem. Recent tests with the Taylor show it to be in the 70-90 range now. I wouldn't also say we've seen "excessive heat" yet this summer - hottest day might have been 89 degrees and there have been quite a few cool days too. Finally, since the water seems so perhaps not an algae issue... unless there are 100% perfectly clear algae? The only thing I haven't formally done is a "SLAM", though I have been adding 3-4 gallons (or granule equivalent) per day.

Help!

Anyway... extremely long story short. What could this be, and what else should I do? I mean, the pool is very clear and comfortable to swim in, it's just that it seems that I have to continue to add a gallon of chlorine every 4-6 hours to keep it above 0.5.

Thanks (and sorry for the super long message).

FK
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave:

Get one of the recommended test kits - Test Kits Compared
I'd recommend the TF-100 plus the SmartStir or the TF-Pro (includes SmartStir).
You can also get the K-2006C ('C' is important), but the TFTestkits kits offer more reagents for the tests you will do most often.
EDIT - oops, missed you already have a K-2006C test kit.

Test strips are highly inaccurate. So is pool store testing.

While waiting for your test kit to arrive, add 5ppm liquid chlorine daily.
Use PoolMath to compute how much liquid chlorine that is.

Also, have a read thru Pool Care Basics while waiting for your test kit.
 
Last edited:
(Finally purchased a Taylor K-2006 kit so started using it)
That kit is fine. Use it. No need to post any results from anything else.
Your elevated CC implies some pool store potions. What have you added?
Any Yellow Treat or other such items? FC not holding with high CYA implies sodium bromide.
 
Please post a full set of test results from your Taylor test kit.
Okay!

7/3 2:30pm - Weather 78 F, partly cloudy.
Water temp: 84 degrees F
pH: 7.4
FC: 5.5
CC: 1.0
Alkalinity: 140
Calcium Hardness: 400
CYA: 90

Note: Added 1 gal 10% sodium hypochlorite 5 hours prior and topped off pool water about 1/5 height of the skimmer. Also, there is a whole house RO system and the water supply to the pool is also through it (if that makes any difference).

How often should I repeat this test and any suggestions what to do in the meantime?

Thanks for the super quick replies!

FK
 
Your elevated CC implies some pool store potions. What have you added?
Any Yellow Treat or other such items? FC not holding with high CYA implies sodium bromide.
The pool company added 1 lb "yellow out" on 6/29 as well as one pound of stabilizer. Unfortunately I didn't have the Taylor before then so I wouldn't say I had a trustworthy measurement of CYA. They wrote 0 CYA on their report but I believe they only measure with a test strip on site...
 
Depends on what Yellow Out they used. If the Coral Seas brand, that is ammonia. So you will need to continue to add chlorine to eliminate the ammonia in the water. The CC will be elevated and your pH should fall as it is eliminated.
 
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Depends on what Yellow Out they used. If the Coral Seas brand, that is ammonia. So you will need to continue to add chlorine to eliminate the ammonia in the water. The CC will be elevated and your pH should fall as it is eliminated.
Got it. I'll ask when they come back (scheduled for Thursday). They only added it last week though (this has been happening for weeks).
 
Thank you for posting your test results, it looks like mknauss has given you some great advise.

It appears that you rely on a pool service for normal pool maintenance, and that is a personal choice. Most of the processes on TFP are not compatible with pool store advice and/or services. Pool stores and services push their potions and powders, which they sell at a premium price, and most of the time their remedy causes other issues which they have a potion to fix that too. With the TFP process, we use a very limited number of chemicals which are cheap. Currently, I use a salt water chlorine generator and I spend less than $75 for 5 months of operation. When I used liquid chlorine, of course I had the cost of 1/2 gallon of chlorine per day, so my total for a season was still less than $400. Before I found TFP, I would spend between $600 & $800, and during the last two months of the season I would fight algae, and it was usually a losing battle....... Hi my name is Don and I used to be a pool store addict.


 

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Thank you for posting your test results, it looks like mknauss has given you some great advise.

It appears that you rely on a pool service for normal pool maintenance, and that is a personal choice. Most of the processes on TFP are not compatible with pool store advice and/or services. Pool stores and services push their potions and powders, which they sell at a premium price, and most of the time their remedy causes other issues which they have a potion to fix that too. With the TFP process, we use a very limited number of chemicals which are cheap. Currently, I use a salt water chlorine generator and I spend less than $75 for 5 months of operation. When I used liquid chlorine, of course I had the cost of 1/2 gallon of chlorine per day, so my total for a season was still less than $400. Before I found TFP, I would spend between $600 & $800, and during the last two months of the season I would fight algae, and it was usually a losing battle....... Hi my name is Don and I used to be a pool store addict.


Thanks! I certainly wouldn't say I have a preference to have a pool company - this one in particular has only been twice since I only contacted them last week thinking they may be able to help work out this issue. Would much rather just do it myself with TFPs advice.

Chem updates:

7/3 8:55pm
FC: 3.0 ppm FC
CC: 0.5-1.0
pH: 7.4

7/4 12:15pm
FC: 1.2 ppm FC
CC: 0.6 ppm
pH: 7.4

(Pool was covered the entire time between these)

Any other tests I should be doing and paying attention to routinely right now?

Thx everyone!

FK
 
You are going to need to get the cya down. Either drain and refill, or a no drain water exchange.


then slam the pool. SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
you have something in the water that is consuming the FC.
Got it. Had to add another half bottle of liquid last night - though we had the pool open most of the day with swimmers.

Do you think that draining is the only option? Nothing else we can test for and try to eliminate chemically?

Thanks!

FK
 
Unfortunately, there is no other practical way to lower cya. It builds up from the use of tablets.

what are you testing your cya with?
 
Unfortunately, there is no other practical way to lower cya. It builds up from the use of tablets.

what are you testing your cya with?
I'm using the Taylor K-2006 though it's still fairly new to me so getting the hang of it and some of my results may not be perfect.

Last night I put in 1 gal of 10% liquid.

It was covered all night and morning and I tested it at about 1:30 pm and got about 1.0 FC and 0.5 CC.

The pH is also notably lower - somewhere below 7.2. These tests are difficult for me because I don't honestly see much difference in the color below 7.4 and the water doesn't match any of the boxes to my colorblind eyes.

I tested CYA and this time it looks more like 70. When the pool company came last week they added 1lb of stabilizer since they said they tested 0 CYA. That's actually consistent with what I've tested on several different brands of test strips.

I usually do both test strips and Taylor and at the moment the two types of strips show the pH right around 7.4-7.6 and CYA on the lower end (I just don't really see enough distinction between the color bands to be sure).

So if my use of the K-2006 is to be trusted I'm seeing a steadily dropping pH and chlorine which is consistent with what I've been seeing for the past few weeks.
 
Update: Just found a hang tag left by the pool company (who I did not know was there today) and the reason the pH is down is because they tested it at 7.8 and added ph down. The measured FC at 3.0, and Alkalinity at 180. Their test results actually match nearly all of my test strip results too so I'm starting to question the accuracy of K-2006.

So perhaps I need to get the TF-PRO test? It's hard to know what to do if I can trust my test results! :(
 
The Taylor kit and TFP kits use the same reagents. Trust the drop based test kit.
You need to slam the pool.
The pool should remain uncovered while doing it. Let the cya buffer the FC.
 
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Please do not be discouraged. The key to good testing is consistency, correct sample size, holding the Reagent bottles verticle when dispensing drops, don't rush drops (1 drop every one to two seconds), thoughly rinsing your sample bottle and testing equipment. You will get consistent results and your confidence level will go up.
 
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BTW, 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine, will only add 5.6 ppm of chlorine in 18000 gallons of water. If you have Algae, and I suspect that you do, that 5.6 ppm will be consumed quickly, with a CYA of 70, your minimum chlorine is 5ppm (anything less than 5 will give Algae a chance to grow) and your target is 8-10 ppm.
 
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