- May 3, 2014
- 62,752
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You are welcome to the forum. But we are limited in our guidance without data.
Everyone would love to help, but without any reliable test data any advice offered could make things worse or waste lots of your money. Realistically the test kit will save you more money than it costs you in the end. 12 gallons of chlorine, floc and biogard won’t be something you have to purchase anymore.Good luck.
35 years and no Slam so I thought I’d at least give it a try and its definitely gotten better but I guess with no Taylor test kit people like me shouldn’t come here for help?
Understood. Try to set aside some money since a quality test kit is by far the best money you'll ever spend on your pool. You will save a massive amount of money, time, and effort by using a proper kit, and you'll attain a superior outcome.I can’t afford the Taylor kit right now
This one?Tell ya' what.....you can buy just the fas dpd chlorine test components separately from a full kit. It's the only way to know your FC for sure and on a regular enough basis for the SLAM.
Okay, trying to get one of these kits is such a hassle and so expensive but seems it’s the only way to use this process. I’ll work on trying to purchase one.Everyone would love to help, but without any reliable test data any advice offered could make things worse or waste lots of your money. Realistically the test kit will save you more money than it costs you in the end. 12 gallons of chlorine, floc and biogard won’t be something you have to purchase anymore.
Thanks PJT! Yes, I really don’t want to spend $100 but I’m willing since this is the only way to SLAM. 35 years of not much more than chlorine tabs and now it’s all about only using liquid chlorine. My pool is so close to being clear, so the $100 is a bit over the top for me. Ordering just takes so freaking long. No place to buy it where I live, but hopefully I’ll have one in a week or soUnderstood. Try to set aside some money since a quality test kit is by far the best money you'll ever spend on your pool. You will save a massive amount of money, time, and effort by using a proper kit, and you'll attain a superior outcome.
Okay, I’m going to view them again and work on ordering one and come back. Thank you!As mentioned above- without an fas/dpd test that measures fc & cc separately & accurately up to 50ppm (instead of total chlorine only to 5ppm w/the OTO)
& a reliable cya # we would be guessing about what’s going on just like you.
The first step really is the kit.
I used the hth kit for years with my little pools that I could dump if there was a problem - its not terrible for ph, ta, & ch but it only has the oto total chlorine test & enough cya reagent for 2 tests.
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Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared
What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!www.troublefreepool.com
This is the one I just ordered. Thank you for the suggestion!Tell ya' what.....you can buy just the fas dpd chlorine test components separately from a full kit. It's the only way to know your FC for sure and on a regular enough basis for the SLAM.
No it was replaced at the end of the season last year. My psi has been fine. Could it still be sand? Tbh, the floc was from last year and didn’t really do much.What you saved by not buying a tf100 or Taylor k2006c you have likely spent in inefficient chlorine use & electricity.
Get one on order asap so you can know what your actual cya level is & maintain the proper & effective slam level fc (no more, no less). No guessing.
You say your sand is new- was it replaced after your use of flocculant?
Add 5ppm of liquid chlorine every day until the kit arrives. The other thing to watch for is that floc. If any of it got into the filter then the sand may be junk. Lots of people use the floc and think they got it out, but find out they’re wrong after the sand cakes up and stops filtering well. You might want to open it up and check the condition of the sand. If it caked up with floc you may need to change it out.Okay, I just ordered. What should I do until May 10th?
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greatOkay, I just ordered. What should I do until May 10th?
View attachment 487004
Okay, got it. Thank you! Also, are there any indicators that I could look for that may tell me the sand needs cleaning or replaced before opening it up?great
do you have cya reagent/test? That number is super important.
Until it arrives Do the 5ppm of liquid chlorine daily, brush/vac daily, go on the hunt for hidden algae (ladders, skimmers, light niches, drain covers etc.)
As for the sand you may want to consider a deep clean
Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter
This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...www.google.com
Is the pressure increasing with filtering & reducing after backwashing? It should be.Okay, got it. Thank you! Also, are there any indicators that I could look for that may tell me the sand needs cleaning or replaced before opening it up?
Okay, got it. Thank you! Also, are there any indicators that I could look for that may tell me the sand needs cleaning or replaced before opening it up?
That’s the thing that’s confusing me about the sand. It’s brand new and I have a new filter gauge that was put on before I opened this year. The pressure has been fine and I usually backwash when it’s 5 over - which is maybe 1-2 times a week.Is the pressure increasing with filtering & reducing after backwashing? It should be.
Also be sure that the gauge goes to zero when the pump is off - if not , replace the gauge.