22000 gal pool, using 2 gallons of 10% bleach a week to maintain...

You are adding just under 10 ppm FC PER WEEK. That is, frankly, low. Your northern climate is probably why. As you enter summer, that will most likely double, or a bit more.

No reason to raise TA. Hopefully you did not add any chemical to do that.
 
You are adding just under 10 ppm FC PER WEEK. That is, frankly, low. Your northern climate is probably why. As you enter summer, that will most likely double, or a bit more.

No reason to raise TA. Hopefully you did not add any chemical to do that.
Yes the pool is still pretty cold. My TA measurements turn RED at 70...so I figured raising it to 90 would be good being the ideal range is between 80-100. I used 5 lbs of baking soda, no chemicals here. :)
 
Last summer I was using roughly 2 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine in the peak of summer for my 15,000 gallon Intex above ground pool.

My TA measurements turn RED at 70...so I figured raising it to 90 would be good being the ideal range is between 80-100.
Where did you get the 80-100? TFP recommended levels has 50 being fine at the low end, and 60-80 is the ideal range. You were actually smack dab in the middle of the ideal range TA before you adjusted it!
 
For me in April of 2020 I used less than 2 gallons. My peak was
July and used 21 gallons. So far your consumption seems normal.
-Bigpaws
 
You are adding just under 10 ppm FC PER WEEK. That is, frankly, low. Your northern climate is probably why. As you enter summer, that will most likely double, or a bit more.

I am around the same latitude and my pool is using a bit over 1 ppm/day right now.
 
Last summer I was using roughly 2 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine in the peak of summer for my 15,000 gallon Intex above ground pool.
About the same for me with a slightly smaller pool. During the Summer I added ~40-50oz of 12.5% per day.

If I left the solar cover on, I could probably cut that more than in half.

@gdog2004 your usage seems completely normal/in-line for your size pool. Using a solar cover when not in use can help decrease that some, in addition to helping with heat retention. Admittedly, though, they can be a pain to work with.
 
Last summer I was using roughly 2 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine in the peak of summer for my 15,000 gallon Intex above ground pool.


Where did you get the 80-100? TFP recommended levels has 50 being fine at the low end, and 60-80 is the ideal range. You were actually smack dab in the middle of the ideal range TA before you adjusted it!

Here:
and
Here...

"

Alkalinity: Recommendations for Alkalinity in a Vinyl Lined Pool

The Total Alkalinity reading for your swimming pool should be between 80-120 ppm (parts per million). If your alkalinity is too high, you can have signs of scaling and the water will probably be very cloudy. In this case, the pH will probably be very high also. By adding pH down, or pH decreaser, you will be lowering the pH as well as the Alkalinity.
 

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Here:
and
Here...

"

Alkalinity: Recommendations for Alkalinity in a Vinyl Lined Pool

The Total Alkalinity reading for your swimming pool should be between 80-120 ppm (parts per million). If your alkalinity is too high, you can have signs of scaling and the water will probably be very cloudy. In this case, the pH will probably be very high also. By adding pH down, or pH decreaser, you will be lowering the pH as well as the Alkalinity.
Those are not TFPC resources and thus do not follow TFPC levels. You are welcome to follow them, but this forum is for TFPC discussion.
 

 
Here:
and
Here...

"

Alkalinity: Recommendations for Alkalinity in a Vinyl Lined Pool

The Total Alkalinity reading for your swimming pool should be between 80-120 ppm (parts per million). If your alkalinity is too high, you can have signs of scaling and the water will probably be very cloudy. In this case, the pH will probably be very high also. By adding pH down, or pH decreaser, you will be lowering the pH as well as the Alkalinity.
Ah, thanks. I'd definitely recommend following the TFPC recommended levels, a lot of smart people worked to come up with them.

One thing I'll add is it is my understanding that the "industry standard" guidelines of 80-120 for TA (which I want to emphasize is not TFP recommended level for TA) is probably assuming the "industry standard" usage of lots of trichlor. In this case a higher TA with correspondingly higher pH rise will help to counter some of the acidic nature of the trichlor.

BUT, all that said, you are on TFP adding liquid chlorine so presumably you understand the downside of too much trichlor (too much CYA) so following the TFPC recommended levels will be better for you than following non-TFPC recommended levels. You'll end up adding less stuff. For example according to TFPC you didn't need that baking soda, and now your higher TA will mean a somewhat faster pH rise so you will need more acid than if you had used the TFPC recommended TA level.

Hopefully this helps explain things a bit better. Good luck!
 
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Those are not TFPC resources and thus do not follow TFPC levels. You are welcome to follow them, but this forum is for TFPC discussion.
Interesting. I very much follow the TFPC levels but it seems there may be some inconsistencies in some of the info.
I just pulled those websites up as a quick reference as I didn't have the laminated card from the TF-100 kit handy, but for the most part all of my BBB measurements are obtained using the the TF-100 test kit and I get ranges from the pool calculator and following what is on the laminated card. I purchased that kit off of this site.
In that very same test kit, on the laminated instruction card that comes with it, the recommended TA levels are 100-120 for manually chlorinated pools. When did the recommended TA levels change ? I just got this test kit last summer I believe (maybe the summer before...at the oldest).
My pool looks perfect at this point, no issues. My TA is between 90 or 100 (90 it is green, putting in the 10 drop makes it red) .
 

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I agree but I was also following the TFPC recommendations that come with the TF-100 test kit, which is distributed by TFP. See my previous post.

TFTestKits is an independent company from TFP. They operate independently and make their own recommendations in their test kits.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit who displays NO advertising on our site nor is our advice compromised by financial incentives. We use donations from our users to pay for our servers and to continue to develop pool care.
 
TFTestKits is an independent company from TFP. They operate independently and make their own recommendations in their test kits.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit who displays NO advertising on our site nor is our advice compromised by financial incentives. We use donations from our users to pay for our servers and to continue to develop pool care.
Fair enough, but it is the kit that is always recommended on this site and it has right on the container it comes in to check this site for support. Even if you go to the goal range on the pool calculator
and select troublefreepool.com as the range is says 70 to 90. And a traditional pool is 80-120. Not sure where 50 came in as an acceptable number, even on the low end.
 
Poolcalculator.com is not associated with TFP.

TFP has PoolMath

Many non-related companies refer to each other or link on the Internet.

Both the TFT TF-100 and the Taylor K-2006C test kits are regularly recommended. Either of them work with TFPC methods. The TF-100 happens to be a better value so more popular.
 
Not sure where 50 came in as an acceptable number, even on the low end.
50 being acceptable on the low end comes from TFP recommended levels, which can be found here: What Are My Ideal Pool Levels? - Trouble Free Pool

Additionally the PoolMath app @ajw22 linked in his post above mine also outlines 50 as an acceptable minimum. If you don’t have the app I highly recommend, it makes calculating additions much easier and if you subscribe also logs your additions so you can view a record of test results/additions/maintenance performed/etc.
 

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