1st Pool Build | Sugar Land - Skimmer Repairs Done - Hardscape Finished

If you are anything like me, you will test around 4 times per day at first, just out of excitement ..haha

I'm just over 5 weeks, and like you had my pool acid washed. I found testing pH once per day is enough to stay on top of the pH rise from the curing plaster. FC I am still testing twice per day while I'm still dialing in the time/duration of my pool pump and SWG.
 
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I just did my first test.

So my pool has been filled and the pump was running or about 4 hours yesterday and just started up again today. He has it setup to run 12 hours currently. The poolmaster that setup the startup poured what looked like about a gallon of Muratic Acid and then a Large measuring cup full of Shock. They then put the tablets in the in line chlorinator. From what I saw that was it.

I brushed the pool last night and will brush again of course daily.

I just did my first test and these are the results I got.

FC - 7.5
CC - 1
CYA - I don't think there was any CYA because I went all the way to the top and could still see the dot (did i do it wrong)
PH - between 6.8 & 7.2 in terms of color
TA - 80
CH - 125

Would love some feedback.
 
Your FC is too high for startup. Just let it drift down to 3 ppm which it should in a day or two with no CYA. Then maintain your FC at 3 ppm.

Your pH is low but it will rise naturally.

TA is fine.

Add 30 ppm of dry stabilizer using the sock method on Day 4.

Your CH is low. What is the CH of your fill water?
 
Hi guys,

I had an autofill question. I noticed the the past two days the level of the water has come down a decent amount, maybe about 1.5 inches or more. You can kind of see the line on the tile from the plaster dust and where the water is now.

I figured the auto fill would fill that up, so I checked the unit and noticed that the water level was way over the float, so to test it out I took a cup and took all the water out and let it fill back up and then the float came back up and it stopped. I figured that it would continue pouring water that would be going into the pool to slowly fill and maintain it.

I noticed that if I pulled the float up higher to keep it going the water would just fill up and not actually go anywhere. Does that mean there is something in the pipes path and water is not going from the auto fill into the pool? I know they have to adjust the float but it concerned me when it just kept filling all the way up and the water wasn't going anywhere.

Hope that makes sense. IMG_1678.jpeg
IMG_1679.jpeg
 
There should be an eyeball return in the pool where the autofill is located. usually about 12-18 below water level.
 
There should be an eyeball return in the pool where the autofill is located. usually about 12-18 below water level.
The eyeball return that is closest to the auto fill seems to be a return line from pump because it's pushing water. Then there is one eyeball that I don't feel anything coming out, then the next one has water pushing out.

What methods could I use to check and see if it is actually going anywhere?

I would figure if it's dropped this low it would have been one more and water would be filling and the float would never raise correct?
 
You would not feel anything coming out of the autofill eyeball.

Get a hose and put water into the eyeball you do not feel anything coming out. See where the water ends up.
 
This may be a stupid question but are you sure the autofill is connected to a water source? I know here in Tampa for some reason the pool builders aren't allowed to connect to the water source so they can install the autofill feature but then I have to hire a licensed plumber to make the final connection.
 
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You would not feel anything coming out of the autofill eyeball.

Get a hose and put water into the eyeball you do not feel anything coming out. See where the water ends up.
Okay I will try that and see what happens
This may be a stupid question but are you sure the autofill is connected to a water source? I know here in Tampa for some reason the pool builders aren't allowed to connect to the water source so they can install the autofill feature but then I have to hire a licensed plumber to make the final connection.
Yes it is becuase if I adjust the float water does come into the auto fill.
 
Is the water level of the pool and the water level of the auto fill the same?

If the answer is yes the auto fill float is in a position that shuts off the flow of water into the pool and you may need to loosen the wing nut and raise the float up so that when it drops back down to the current water level it will let water in.

I don't know what brand you have...but it looks like these instructions should help.
https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/Products/Manuals/157589_2020319162617.pdf
 

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Did you figure out the auto-fill issue?

Hi thanks for the follow up. Yes it seemed like they didn't adjust it high enough and it does seem to be working at the moment.

So I had the pool school today with a company out here. Older guy whose been doing this since '78 apparently. While discussing the pool chemistry I mentioned CYA and he stated he does not add any CYA. He said becuase we are using tabs he likes to let it naturally rise over time instead of adding and have it go out of control and drain the pool. He also said since I will be going to salt water in a year this will keep me closer to range over that year time rather than add now and have it rise.

What is everyone thoughts on that?

SKIMMER UPDATE: So they had the gunite supervisor come out with a head project manager and the Supervisor agreed the skimmer is off about 1.75 inches and the problem will be rectified. We decided that they would start work in October when it cools down a bit so we can enjoy the pool.

They will have to cut out part of the back deck and raise everything up and gunite it as well as some tile work. Said the process should be about a week long overall. I did get it confirmed in an email that they will be doing this work as well as some minor touch up items.

Bummed it has to be done, but at least pleased they are standing behind their work and getting it taken care of.

@HermanTX Here is the labeled information from the pool school guys that came out to show me everything.

Let me know if anything jumps out that doesn't make sense so I can ask.
 

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Eventhough he's not far off on his thinking but where you're located you can benefit from CYA 30-40 ppm right now. Pucks will be too slow and let the UV burn off the FC very fast. On the other hand if you keep using pucks it'll end up higher then you care for using LC. Be on top of it and don't let it get out of hand.
 
Let me know if anything jumps out that doesn't make sense so I can ask.
The labeling is great. I am confused on one picture. The suction of your 2 skimmers and main drain. On 1 side is a MD and SK1 and on other side of valve is SK2. So you cannot control if all you want is skimming. Like a lot of us, the MD is set to about 20% (or less) and the skimmers at 80% or more. But you cannot do that because you have SK1 and MD on same suction line with no valve in between. Just need to verify that they labelled them correctly. I would have thought they put both skimmers on the same side and the MD on the side by itself. Another potential issue, lets say you want to drain below your skimmer for some reason. (Assumption that you have access to a drain line from your plumbing) You cannot do that unless you put a plug in the skimmer. You could use a sump pump which is recommended if you are draining a lot but if you just had to drain some distance below the skimmer, that is not feasible using your main pump. I would test these lines as to what is on suction and hopefully it is just mislabeled. Just curious if the pool school technician indicated any concerns on this.
 
The labeling is great. I am confused on one picture. The suction of your 2 skimmers and main drain. On 1 side is a MD and SK1 and on other side of valve is SK2. So you cannot control if all you want is skimming. Like a lot of us, the MD is set to about 20% (or less) and the skimmers at 80% or more. But you cannot do that because you have SK1 and MD on same suction line with no valve in between. Just need to verify that they labelled them correctly. I would have thought they put both skimmers on the same side and the MD on the side by itself. Another potential issue, lets say you want to drain below your skimmer for some reason. (Assumption that you have access to a drain line from your plumbing) You cannot do that unless you put a plug in the skimmer. You could use a sump pump which is recommended if you are draining a lot but if you just had to drain some distance below the skimmer, that is not feasible using your main pump. I would test these lines as to what is on suction and hopefully it is just mislabeled. Just curious if the pool school technician indicated any concerns on this.

What is the best way to test the lines?

I know when he was showing me how to use the vacuum that attaches to the skimmer the first time he put the off valve to the side with the 2 pipes and the one he said to use wasn't pulling anything. So then he said the guy must have labeled it wrong and then changed the label for skimmer 1 and 2.

It could be like you said that the main drain is actually where it says skimmer 2 now? The pipe for that one is much larger than the other 2 pipes on the opposite side of the valve.

I you could link me or let me know the best way to test those and see what to look for. That way if I see my Pool Project Manager I can ask him as well.
 
@HermanTX

So I figured it out and tested it. When it's on the side with just one pipe it activates the skimmer by the sun shelf and turns off the other two. When I turn it the other way, the other skimmer and presumably the main drain both get suction. This theory matches up with some of the piping pictures I have where that deep end skimmer and main drain where piped together. Or I'm mistaken.

Should I bring this up to the pool builder and tell them that it's done wrong? Or do some builders do it this way? Here are some plumbing pictures I had. From the looks of it that one skimmer looks like it's connected to the main drain then goes out and that's why it's setup like that on the equipment pad. But if they were on the same line then no reason to have 2 pipes?
 

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So I figured it out and tested it. When it's on the side with just one pipe it activates the skimmer by the sun shelf and turns off the other two. When I turn it the other way, the other skimmer and presumably the main drain both get suction. This theory matches up with some of the piping pictures I have where that deep end skimmer and main drain where piped together. Or I'm mistaken.
Well you tested correctly and your results confirm how the pipes are marked. I just don't know why it is done like that as you do not have any capability to maximize skimming by turning the main drain to very low suction or off. I went back and looked at old posts (see #191, 192, 193 and 194) where it was confusing then because the plumbing diagrams did not match the pictures (reality) and we made some assumptions that the 2 suction pipes to the left were for each skimmer but that assumption has been proven incorrect based on your testing.

Should I bring this up to the pool builder and tell them that it's done wrong? Or do some builders do it this way? Here are some plumbing pictures I had. From the looks of it that one skimmer looks like it's connected to the main drain then goes out and that's why it's setup like that on the equipment pad. But if they were on the same line then no reason to have 2 pipes?
I think the PB should try to explain how you will maximize skimming on its current configuration and how do you utilize the independent lines for each skimmer if they are not controlled by any valve? Also ask, if you just wanted to have suction from the main drain for example to suck up dirt that fell in your pool or to lower the water level below the skimmers, how do you accomplish that? Based on what is shown, you cannot isolate the main drain only for suction unless you plug a skimmer.

What I have seen in the forum is that there is no "standard" for plumbing configuration. Also, it would be good to show the PB the 2 pictures of the main drain with 1 pipe going to the skimmer and the other pipe go the opposite direction. Ask how do they link up at the equipment pad? What is the function of the main drain pipe going to the skimmer?

FYI, some skimmers are set up to close the skimming suction line when water level drops and then it opens up the line from the main drain. This protects your pump from sucking in air. But you have 2 skimmers and only 1 appears to be set up that way so if you have low water level the other skimmer will suck in air. Furthermore, you have a auto-fill so your water level should remain fairly constant unless the auto-fill float breaks. Maybe the picture is deceiving and that main drain line only appears to connect to the skimmer but it may just run next to it and it is an independent line to the equipment pad. Sorry to ramble on but just trying to provide any possible explanation for why it is set up the way it shows in your pictures.

Ideally, as what was discussed back in those early posts from July, it to put a Jandy 2 way valve on each of those 3 lines (the 2 skimmers and the 1 main drain) then you can make any adjustment using those valves to control pool suction. It means ripping out what has already been done but better to do it now. If your PB stumbles as to how all of this is to function as currently set up, then you have good reason to say, rip it out and put in the valves to control each suction line.

Hope this helps.
 
@stack24 I got thinking about this again. Where is your suction for the water features? On my water feature I have a second suction line on the wall of my pool. Do you have a separate suction for the water feature pump? I was thinking that the 2 lines from the main drain - one could feed the water feature pump - unless there is a separate suction coming from the pool. Let us know.
 
So I wanted to ask if this might be a simple trouble shoot.

Heater was hooked up by plumber and he tested it and showed me it worked.

Didn’t use it at all then had the pool come in and put in the heater bypass as suggested.

Today I went to test the heater and it doesn’t fire. I make sure the heater bypass is allowing water to pass and it’s on the right setup. But the heater never fires and blower doesn’t come on like the first time.

I see the heater option I. My IntelliCenter for both pool and spa.

no lights or anything to come on for the heater as well. It’s a mastertemp 400.

Any quick things I can check and see if I can get it to fire?
 

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