Has anybody had any luck with Natural Chemistry CYA reducer
My pool is at about 200 CYA.
Thanks
My pool is at about 200 CYA.
Thanks
Natural Chemistry CYA reducer
- Thread starter Rob R2
- Start date
There are bacteria that eat CYA and break it down. So, it's theoretically possible.
Bioactive is the first company that tried to sell a product that would introduce the bacteria to break down the CYA.
My opinion is that the bioactive products did not work as advertised.
Natural Chemistry might have developed a workable solution but I would think that the likelihood of it working is low.
I think that the Natural Chemistry product is new and probably a copy of the bioactive products.
I haven't seen any reports of the natural Chemistry reducer.
If you do try it, let us know if it works.
Bioactive is the first company that tried to sell a product that would introduce the bacteria to break down the CYA.
My opinion is that the bioactive products did not work as advertised.
Natural Chemistry might have developed a workable solution but I would think that the likelihood of it working is low.
I think that the Natural Chemistry product is new and probably a copy of the bioactive products.
I haven't seen any reports of the natural Chemistry reducer.
If you do try it, let us know if it works.
Rob,
Many have tried and almost all have failed... It just does not do what is advertised. I suspect it will cost you less to just drain your pool.
See for yourself... Just use the search box in the upper right of your screen and type in "CYA Reducer" and you will get plenty of hits.
Thanks for posting,
Jim R.
I was thinking of Bioactive, but I'd bet they are all about the same... all hat and no rabbit...
Many have tried and almost all have failed... It just does not do what is advertised. I suspect it will cost you less to just drain your pool.
See for yourself... Just use the search box in the upper right of your screen and type in "CYA Reducer" and you will get plenty of hits.
Thanks for posting,
Jim R.
I was thinking of Bioactive, but I'd bet they are all about the same... all hat and no rabbit...
Thanks!!
We really want one of these products to work.
It would really help if you do a couple of things-
Get a good CYA baseline reading. With CYA as high as yours it won't be exact, but following the diluted test instructions you will be close
Follow the directions to the letter,
From the time you get your baseline CYA reading until you get your final CYA reading please write down everything you do or add to the pool.
********* Diluted CYA test
Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2 for your CYA level.
Sounds like CYA is a very “stable” chemical. It will not readily break down or be transformed into another type of molecule. Only something biological can change that apparently. It’s worth a try for sure! Good luck! We are all waiting to hear how it works.
That's exactly what these things are. The first ingredient in these reducers is dextrose, which once led to someone asking if they can throw sugar in to their pool to lower the CYA
The dextrose is there to keep the bacteria alive, which is the actual active ingredient. And it is based on a very real thing, which is why we were actually quite excited here when this was announced. Many times over the winter if the chlorine level drops to zero a bacteria strain may enter the pool and will consume the CYA and excrete ammonia. If the pool owner is unlucky it ends there, and they have a major chlorine demand to remove the ammonia. If the owner is lucky then the nitrogen process continues and the ammonia is converted to nitrites and nitrates and they just open to mysteriously low CYA. We see it every year, it's plenty real and plenty of people over the years have wondered if there was a way to harness it.So one day BioWish came on the scene and tried to package this process. They even had one of their employees join here to try helping and were sending free replacement doses to some users here who were not seeing results. So I credit them all of that. However, the failures started piling up. Some on here with laboratory access couldn't even get it to work properly in perfect conditions. Those claiming success rarely were testing with the accuracy we would have liked to see and/or showed far less than ideal performance from the product. Then came the suspicious posts. People joining and using their first post to sing absolute praise to the product, then disappearing. It was very clear that some, likely all of these were plants intended to make the product look more successful than it was.
Eventually the hoopla died down, and now we just get a couple posts every month asking about it. Every now and then we do see someone with proper testing showing a reduction that is outside the range of the CYA test margin of error, so the stuff isn't completely bogus. However, given the price and track record of this product weighed against the price and 100% guaranteed success of water exchange, we generally discourage anybody from trying it. Sure, we like data so when someone is up for trying we do enjoy getting the results to add to our knowledge bank. I just personally feel we have enough data on this failure of a product (this is just BioActive rebranded, don't fool yourself) to not want to see these companies make more sales on the "well maybe it will work for me" hope ticket.
The method is at least theoretically possible. While I don't have a lot of confidence in the product, I would at least like to see if this new product works.
I think that if it's done right, it can work.
I think that if it's done right, it can work.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,477
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The issue is maintaining that very small FC window (which could easily result in an algae bloom) while the product is 'working'.
I suspect that the fc probably needs to be zero to allow the bacteria a chance to multiply.
The outcome is likely to be a bunch of ammonia and algae if it works at all.
So, probably a prolonged SLAM would be required to clean up the mess.
The product is definitely not a good choice for most people. Water replacement is more reliable and probably less expensive.
The outcome is likely to be a bunch of ammonia and algae if it works at all.
So, probably a prolonged SLAM would be required to clean up the mess.
The product is definitely not a good choice for most people. Water replacement is more reliable and probably less expensive.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,477
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The instructions show keeping FC between 1-3 ppm. Step 1 of the process is using a chlorine neutralizer (sodium thiosulfate?) to lower the FC. Step 2 shows 'blooming' the bacteria in a bucket of warm water for 4 hours prior to adding to pool. Then circulating pool for 4 hours each day for a week, maintaining the 1-3 ppm FC.
Much more detailed instruction vs the BioActive stuff. I suspect they found more success in the lab using this process. I am suspect it will work in real life!
Much more detailed instruction vs the BioActive stuff. I suspect they found more success in the lab using this process. I am suspect it will work in real life!
I hope they will share results in detail and monitor it over some time. Donaldson thank you for the history and explanation.
Great input from all. Im going to wait until we get a break from the Los Angeles heat to mitigate algae. How do I test for ammonia and if this becomes an issue what is the solution.
Best
Best
- May 3, 2014
- 58,477
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You will know if you have ammonia as you will not be able to hold ANY FC in the water. The solution is as follows:
To check and defeat ammonia, if necessary, is to raise your FC in the water using enough liquid chlorine to get to 10 ppm using PoolMath. Circulate the pool for 15 minutes. Test FC. If at 5 or below, add LC to get to 10 using LC, circulate for 15 minutes, repeat until your FC is above 5 ppm after the 15 minute circulation is above 5 ppm.
To check and defeat ammonia, if necessary, is to raise your FC in the water using enough liquid chlorine to get to 10 ppm using PoolMath. Circulate the pool for 15 minutes. Test FC. If at 5 or below, add LC to get to 10 using LC, circulate for 15 minutes, repeat until your FC is above 5 ppm after the 15 minute circulation is above 5 ppm.
Just tried this product on advice of my pool tech....huge pain to monitor FC and negligible result—went from 68 ppm to 63ppm. Wouldn’t do it again.
To be honest, it probably didn’t do anything. It is impossible to accurately test CYA to the level you are reporting, so I’m guessing those are numbers from a computerized pool store test. You should never confuse the specificity of those tests to accuracy. The CYA test is jut not that accurate.
Now, as to your experience. It matches with what most report. Little to no positive result. Get a good test kit, dump the “pool tech” and take control of your pool.
Resurrecting an old thread here. We tried Natural Chemistry's CYA Removal kit and had moderate success.
Here are the details:
When we closed the pool last year, CYA was around 80 (after a passive drain/fill process earlier in the summer that got it down from 110ish). I wanted the CYA closer to 50 to start this year, as we have a few spots of black algae and I needed to do a good long SLAM. I wasn't too interested in draining again...it's a multi-day process as we can only pump 12 gal/min into our sewer clean-out. (It also makes me nervous since our neighbors recently had some backup issues.) Anyway. Since we can't use the pool yet (we are in TX and are waiting for some parts to come in after freeze damage and the heater is out of commission) I figured I would try the $50 CYA reducer kit. Why not? It's cheaper than drain/refill and if it doesn't work, well, I'm not much worse off than where I started.
CYA consistently measured between mid 70s and mid 80s on multiple Taylor tests. pH 7.6. TA 80. CH 220.
Followed directions with the exception of my chlorine being 0 (so I didn't use the "Step 1"). Poured the "Step 2" materials into a bucket of warm tap water and let it sit in the sun for the afternoon. Poured the bucket of "step 2" + 5 gal of water into the pool and brushed. Let filter run overnight.
Then I didn't do anything. I tested CYA on day 5 and it was in the 60s. I tested CYA on day 7 and it was in the low 50s. Since day 10, it's been hovering right around 50, somewhere between 45-55. Success!
Of course the pool was dirty....full of pollen and yes a few more black algae spots. I started my SLAM 2 days ago. I was a little worried about the possible ammonia issue. So far I've used seven 121oz jugs of 7.55% chlorine and FC was 14 before bed last night and 10 when I got up this morning. So, I dumped 2 more jugs in just now. I'm hopeful that after a few more days we will be good to go!
Overall, I'm happy with this product. It was a lot easier than draining and brought my CYA down to where I want it to be. It's not a miracle product, but it suited my needs, and has halved my chlorine needs for this spring SLAM. I would recommend the CYA removal kit for springtime opening when you're not too worried about algae blooms and have 10 full days to just let it do its thing.
Hope this helps someone!
Here are the details:
When we closed the pool last year, CYA was around 80 (after a passive drain/fill process earlier in the summer that got it down from 110ish). I wanted the CYA closer to 50 to start this year, as we have a few spots of black algae and I needed to do a good long SLAM. I wasn't too interested in draining again...it's a multi-day process as we can only pump 12 gal/min into our sewer clean-out. (It also makes me nervous since our neighbors recently had some backup issues.) Anyway. Since we can't use the pool yet (we are in TX and are waiting for some parts to come in after freeze damage and the heater is out of commission) I figured I would try the $50 CYA reducer kit. Why not? It's cheaper than drain/refill and if it doesn't work, well, I'm not much worse off than where I started.
CYA consistently measured between mid 70s and mid 80s on multiple Taylor tests. pH 7.6. TA 80. CH 220.
Followed directions with the exception of my chlorine being 0 (so I didn't use the "Step 1"). Poured the "Step 2" materials into a bucket of warm tap water and let it sit in the sun for the afternoon. Poured the bucket of "step 2" + 5 gal of water into the pool and brushed. Let filter run overnight.
Then I didn't do anything. I tested CYA on day 5 and it was in the 60s. I tested CYA on day 7 and it was in the low 50s. Since day 10, it's been hovering right around 50, somewhere between 45-55. Success!
Of course the pool was dirty....full of pollen and yes a few more black algae spots. I started my SLAM 2 days ago. I was a little worried about the possible ammonia issue. So far I've used seven 121oz jugs of 7.55% chlorine and FC was 14 before bed last night and 10 when I got up this morning. So, I dumped 2 more jugs in just now. I'm hopeful that after a few more days we will be good to go!
Overall, I'm happy with this product. It was a lot easier than draining and brought my CYA down to where I want it to be. It's not a miracle product, but it suited my needs, and has halved my chlorine needs for this spring SLAM. I would recommend the CYA removal kit for springtime opening when you're not too worried about algae blooms and have 10 full days to just let it do its thing.
Hope this helps someone!
Hi Tim,
I have the K-2005 and the FAS DPD from tftestkits.com, and a couple bottles of cya reagent refills
I have the K-2005 and the FAS DPD from tftestkits.com, and a couple bottles of cya reagent refills
July 2021: I used Bio-Active Products Pool Stabilizer Reducer/Cyanuric Acid Reducer in April 2021 after Taylor CYA test results showed CYA of ~200ppm. Followed package directions scrupulously. After treatment Taylor test showed CYA of ~50. It's been creeping back up, of course. The current anomaly is this: Taylor testing gives pretty regular reading of ~75, but I took a sample to Leslie's yesterday just for some double-checking and their testing reported CYA of 158. My Taylor reagent is brand new, so it's not an outdated product issue. Anybody using the Taylor High test kit also getting variant readings from a pool product company test?
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