In the Swim Chlorine Tabs

[cfherrman]

Bleach is about a million times more efficient than tabs, and is about a 1:1 depending on your pump as with a swg

There are people that us bleach in big pools

Based on 2-4 ppm FC lost a day

You will use 175 oz to 355 oz of 8.25% bleach a day

Or

You will use 123 oz to 245 oz of 12.5% bleach a day

Or

18 to 35 oz of triclor (2.25 - 3.25 pucks) a day
(1.2 - 2.4 cya added a day)

Or

Two 40k - 60k swg's

 

[cfherrman]

To expand on the tabs,

2 cya added a day, 50% drain required after 100 days and every 50 days after that or the pool is not safe

 

[jland47]

Ok, I've called about 6 local pool stores/builders and no one handles installing a liquid chlorine system. I've looked at a few of the DIY projects on here, are there any that have a ORP system with two pumps for chlorine and acid. Might have to do this on my own.

 

[ajw22]

Ok, I've called about 6 local pool stores/builders and no one handles installing a liquid chlorine system. I've looked at a few of the DIY projects on here, are there any that have a ORP system with two pumps for chlorine and acid. Might have to do this on my own.

Get a SWG. Pentair has Intellichlor and Intelliph combination that handles chlorine and PH.

 

[cfherrman]

Advoid orp, can't use more than 20 cya, measures something else that infers FC instead of actually measuring FC so you still have to test for FC.

A swg is set the dial and test it, so is a injection system.

Both are easy to diy, if you are handy you can do it.

Injection it literally replacing a PVC body with a tee, putting a bushing and thread to the injection fitting size, putting the pump and tank somewhere, and running the injection pump off the current pump/filter timer.

 

[jland47]

Not sure when I will be able to install an automated system for liquid chlorine so I was back at pool store this morning. I took some of my own readings yesterday to compare to pool store. I took my readings before backwashing and adding to gallons of bleach to avoid raising the cya.

my readings and pool store (I was using my old taylor kit and some of the coloring was hard to tell which level it was at)
ph- 7.9 8
FC- 2 3.04
TC- 2 3.58
CC-0 .54
ALK- 120 90
CYA-90 92

I didnt test for phosphates but the pool store had a reading of 2000ppb. They told me to add PHOSFREE and some alkalinity UP. Earlier on in the week I was having a green tint in the water, I shocked with calhypo granuals and it took the green tint away and now my water has a blue shade to it with some cloudiness.

Any opinions on the "pool store" recommendations? Should I just continue to by jugs until I get a system set up?

- - - Updated - - -

the post made the readings closer than the draft, here they are again
my reading
ph-7.9
fc-2
tc-2
cc-0
alk-120
cya- 90

pool store
ph-8
fc-3.04
tc-3.58
cc-.54
alk-90
cya-92
phos-2000

 

[jblizzle]

Best advice is to just stop going to the pool store and then you won't hear their nonsense recommendations

 

[JimMarshall]

DID YOU KNOW?: 84% of “Pool store” cared for pools have at least 2 algae blooms a year? That’s their own statistic! Meanwhile 100% of TFP pools have 0 algae blooms a year! Ditch the pool store and their cycle of giving you bad advice so they can sell you more garbage!

Your phosphates can be two thousand kajillion parts per billion and with properly sanitized water you’ll never have an algae outbreak. “Phosfree” is a snake oil they are trying to sell you for a problem that they invented that you don’t have.

Buy the jugs of liquid chlorine and follow the advice of the members here. You’ll be glad you did.

 

[cfherrman]

Use PoolMath and [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA], test and pour bleach daily.

This 5 minutes of your day saves hundreds of dollars a year a hours out the week driving to the pool store.

Btw anytime someone posts pool store results u don't even look at them

 

[jland47]

2 questions, I just tried to use the (see below) for the first time to read my FC. Using the powder seemed a little tricky to me, should the test sample turn solid pink or should it just have a shade of pink? I was on the 6th scoop and it wasnt turning pink, so I stopped assuming I was doing something wrong.[h=1]Complete FAS-DPD Test Kit K-2006 by Taylor[/h]
On going to automated liquid chlorine Ive seen one video drilling directly into the pvc and tapping the threads for the injectors instead of installing t"s to connect the injectors. Any thoughts on best practices?

 

[Mendy48]

I wasn't even aware that there was an automated liquid chlorine. Here's a video I saw. I'm a DIY kind of person, but this looks a bit complicated for me. Have to read up on this. Doesn't seem to be expensive at all.

https://youtu.be/G7hoKbCH6c4

 

[Shekkie]

Is there a reason why you don't want to go with a SWG? With your size pool you'll be blowing through chlorine (at least 3 gal per day I'd guess) so you'd easily pay for a SWG in just one season.

 

[jland47]

SWG would have more upkeep than going with liquid chlorine correct? Especially if I have it set up on pumps. Seems like the majority of people on this site recommend going with liquid.

 

[Jezza]

No most of us are big fans of the SWG- the convenience of not having to buy and cart bleach make it well worth the upfront cost. Once you get your water balanced, a SWG is very good at automating the process of chlorine addition.

BTW if your sample is not turning pink it means that there is no FC in your water

 

[jblizzle]

Use 10 mL of water for the chlorine test so that each drop is 0.5 PPM. If your chlorine is at normal levels you should only need one scoop. If you are following the slam process you may need two scoops. There is never a need to add more than that so if it doesn't turn pink that means you have no chlorine. This is one of the advantages of the TF-100 test kit because it also includes the Oto chlorine test which is a great sanity check for whether you have chlorine or not.

 

[huggies]

How old are your testing chemicals?

2 questions, I just tried to use the (see below) for the first time to read my FC. Using the powder seemed a little tricky to me, should the test sample turn solid pink or should it just have a shade of pink? I was on the 6th scoop and it wasnt turning pink, so I stopped assuming I was doing something wrong.[h=1]Complete FAS-DPD Test Kit K-2006 by Taylor[/h]
On going to automated liquid chlorine Ive seen one video drilling directly into the pvc and tapping the threads for the injectors instead of installing t"s to connect the injectors. Any thoughts on best practices?

 

[jland47]

A year or less, kept outside though if that matters? Not in direct sunlight.

 

[Shekkie]

SWG would have more upkeep than going with liquid chlorine correct? Especially if I have it set up on pumps. Seems like the majority of people on this site recommend going with liquid.

I find it to be much less upkeep and I believe most others would agree. Mine is basically set and forget (once I dial in my timers and percentages which is not complicated). I still test on a regular basis but all I have to tweak is my ph on occasion

What is generally recommended here is going with chlorine. A SWG is just your own little chlorine factory. I think it would also be much less complicated than going with a chlorine dosing system.

I got annoyed at the amount of bleach I was buying to properly dose my pool which is 1/2 the size of your pool and in a cooler climate. Truth is I woulda probaby stuck with manual chlorine dosing if my pool was substantially smaller. My only regret is not doing it sooner.

 

[jblizzle]

Test kits should be kept in cool dark storage in climate controller environment ... I would be suspicious if yours were out side in large temperature fluctuations.

 

[Pollock]

Just search the forum. Here is what I am doing. However since my pool is small I am using a 10 dollar 5 gallon bucket for my tank to start. I dont mind filling it once a week. My parts should be here this week.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/160690-Stenner-pump-for-chlorine-Help-with-sizing-and-install-ideas