Rpm horsepower

wm,

I suspect you could buy some type of adapter for your DVM, but my question would be why??? Motors basically run or they don't.. they generally do not run at some odd rpm..

What is it you are trying to do??

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Im trying to figure out why my motor every two weeks or so would trip the breaker.
Basket clean.
Skimmers clean.
Good suction.
Impeller free spinning.
Correct amperage.
Correct power ratings.
Wiring is cleaned
Hmm.....
What else....
 
wm,

Assuming a GFCI breaker and electric heat, I would first look at the heater core..

If gas heat, I would try a new GFCI breaker.

What kind of pump/motor? Is the motor the only thing being powered by the breaker?

VS pumps and GFCI breakers have been known to throw intermittent trips..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
If it's tripping a GFCI breaker then it could simply be the gfci portion of the breaker going bad.

Is there any correlation to weather that you can determine. Could be moisture from fog or rain (or even watering the lawn) getting into a connection causing the gfci to trip intermittently.
 
It is not terribly uncommon for "electrical noise" to trip a gfci breaker, according to my fellow pool techs. I ran around in circles a while back trying to find the source, as the pump was tripping out every few days. I can't tell you to do this, but in my case, as well as all the techs I spoke with, the solution was to replace the gfci breaker with a standard one. No issues since.
A master electrician friend of mine said that as long as the pump is the only load on the breaker, the gfci is superfluous. The acid test would be to temporarily change the gfci breaker to a standard one. If it still trips, there's something else involved, get an electrician.
 
Using a standard breaker in place of a GFCI breaker can be at times useful for troubleshooting it will not rule out there being a ground fault on the wiring. A personal protection GFCI breaker is set to trip at 5 milliamps of current leakage. A standard breaker will never see leakage that low and will continue to work just fine even if there is an actual ground fault issue. It is very very far from being any type of "acid test".

Your master electrician friend has given you really poor advice and a bad misconception of the purpose to have a GFCI breaker on the pump circuit. Even if there is nothing else on the pump circuit the GFCI breaker is still protecting people from electric shock it is certainly not "superfluous". An electric short in the pump motor offers a direct path for current to get into the pool water through the pump shaft. That is a very legitimate reason to have GFCI protection on the pump.

VS pumps do have a track history of generating nuisance trips in some setups and with some brands of GFCI breakers. A Seimens branded breaker has proven to be the least likely to trip from electronic noise. Pentair and I believe Hayward have recommended using Seimens breakers by name in the past when pumps have exhibited nuisance tripping. Pentair as of the last time I looked uses Seimens breakers in their automation panels rebranded as Pentair for this reason.

In my own experience with my own pump and trying to help others on this board troubleshoot GFCI breakers I've found that a lot of nuisance trips are caused by automation systems sending signals to the pump to control pump speeds. More often than not those control systems are powered from a separate circuit and send a low voltage signal to the pump to change speeds. That control signal from a separate circuit it seems at times can be enough to confuse the GFCI breaker and cause a trip. If at all possible it is best to use the voltage signal supplied by the pumps own electronics and keep the speed change signals isolated from other circuits using dry contacts.
 
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