Hello from Oklahoma

Go ahead an use 10cc of pool water for that FC test, and just divide the number of drops of reagent by 2 for your FC. This saves your reagent in the long run.

Take your CYA up to desired levels...go slow on that so you don't accidentally overdose. Aim for about 30ppm less than you want and then re-test on a good sunny day. Sometimes low levels (like 20-30) of CYA don't make the test easy to read yet it is there.

CH is a tad low for a plaster pool. You'll want to address that too, using PoolMath.

Did you find the test kit pretty straight forward? Easy to use? I forgot if you ordered the speed stir or not? I'm hardpressed to go without my speed stir anymore!

Maddie :flower:
 
Ok retested....water is turning green again. I brushed it and have still been putting a gallon of liquid bleach in in the evenings. Here are my results:
FC 1.75
CC 0.5
PH 7.0
TA 70
CH 150
CYA maybe close to 20. The water in the tube was definitely cloudier than my first testing due to my adding CYA.
CH need to be higher? I noticed some of the "side effects" of high CH was pitting and etching, which I seem to be getting. I thought it was due to higher CYA levels though. ?????
 
Okay it is time to get the SLAM going for real now!

Test and add chlorine as often as you can. The most important part of the SLAM is M=maintain as in maintain the FC at SLAM level for your CYA.

If at all possible try for 4 tests and adding FC a day. Make sure to test your FC 30 mins after adding the chlorine to make sure you are reaching your goal amount every once in while.

Your pump needs to run 24/7 until your SLAM is done.

You and algae are in a battle! You beat it with chlorine but it has to be enough to kill it and keep it dead. DIE ALGAE! DIE! LOL

If you can test more often even better but at least 4 times a day.

Kim:kim:
 
You need to add calcium chloride NOW! Your CSI is -0.81 by my calculation.

Raise your CH to 350 as soon as possible.

Take care.
 
Pool Stores and maybe Walmart. The call it calcium increaser. It is cheaper from Lowes or Home Depot as Ice Melt (must be calcium chloride) but you have to order it delivered to the store.

Use Pool math on how much. I am getting 41 pounds when I use Pool Math
 

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The sooner the better and it sounds like the soonest is Thursday so that is the when it is. This is something to keep in mind for the future. Have the chemicals on hand that you might need that are hard to find in your local area. I am think CYA and CH increaser. Everything else can be bought from Walmart or Lowes so that is good!

Kim:kim:
 
Ok I have been SLAMing for a few days and here are my readings:
FC 7.25
PH 7.3
TA 90
CH 200 (calcium chloride arriving tomorrow or Thursday)
CYA 30
My pool water looks crystal clear.

- - - Updated - - -

I am also reading about my CH LEVEL. The ideal range is anywhere from 150-400 ppm. Why was I so urgently instructed to add calcium chloride? Am I missing something?
 
CSI is the determining factor on damage to plaster pool or scaling to any pool. The previous test results you showed when I made that statement had your CSI at -0.81, or aggressive at damaging your plaster. You can manage the CSI with CH, TA, and pH. As your CH was in the low range, at the time, you can increase it to get your CSI into the benign range, -0.6 to 0.6.

Take care.
 
I am having trouble with cloudy/slightly green water. Here are my numbers:
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]FC 9.5[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]CC 0[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]PH 7.2[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]TA 60[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]CH 320[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]CYA 5
My question is do I need to SLAM?
[/FONT][/FONT]
 

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