New Construction: Cathedral City CA

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The spa has filled and we have three hoses in the pool now. It should be filled by 9pm this evening. I just noticed this water coming down one of the returns. I assume this is a problem. should I try stuffing a towel in there, or is it too late?

The pool builder just responded to a text and said I should keep hosing that area.

IMG_2965.jpg
 
Uhg. Yes, potentially bad. There should be plugs in all the returns, sealing them up tight. My question to the PB, if you're hosing it down, aren't you just widening the area that's not supposed to be wet at all right now? Where do you stop? Wet the entire pool? Until it's full?!? All day?!?! I think he's thinking it'll feather any resulting stain to be less noticeable.

On my pool that was a 1.5" thread. I think that's standard. Is there anyone that can run down to the store to grab one while you "wet it down?"

I honestly don't know which is better. To plug it and let it dry, or to keep it wet now. But like I said, keep how much of it wet?

And if you plug it, with PVC plug or rag, will the next one start leaking?

Can you even reach it? Pretty sure you're not supposed to be walking around in a pool while it's filling.

These are all bigger issues for plaster than pebble. Let's hope for the best. One of mine leaked like that (even with the plug), but before the acid wash. It either didn't leave a stain, or it acid-washed out. Fingers crossed that yours will be fine...
 
After my last post, I walked in with clean white socks and plugged it with a white towel and ziplock bag. I hosed an irregular around it every 5 minutes, the last time I went out it seems to look much dryer and considering to not hose it down now.

IMG_2966.jpg
 
What's done is done. Doesn't seem to be any obvious stain. Not sure if they show up right away, or later. So far so good. Good catch. Way to stay on top of things.
 
The pool is filled, just 5.5 hours. It looks great. They are sending their Lead Pool guy over sometime in the next hour. The filter/pump is running at 2700 rpm, and I added 21oz of The Magenta Stuff seguestrant.


The pool numbers are:
pH: 7.2
FC: 0
TA: 120
CH: 220
Temp: 85
CSI: -.20

I can't find the place in the Pool Math App to add a note of adding the sequestrant today. I thought there was a place to add notes. As well as logging when I brush, vacuum and clean the filter - I don't see that as well.

Questions: Tomorrow I was going to start to adjust pH, TA and CH. Since my pH is already at 7.2, and Pmath says to add acid to lower TA. Do I just leave the TA where it is at for now, or lower it to 7.0 after testing tomorrow and running the filter 24/7?

The CH is a little low. Should I wait a bit before adding Calcium Chloride Dihyrate?

If I should wait on adjusting these, I wonder if the PB will say I'm not managing it correctly and nullify the warranty. After all the list I gave them does say that I will start to adjust those starting Day 1.
 
Do mean this one????

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Yorker said:
The pool is filled, just 5.5 hours. It looks great. They are sending their Lead Pool guy over sometime in the next hour. The filter/pump is running at 2700 rpm, and I added 21oz of The Magenta Stuff seguestrant.


The pool numbers are:
pH: 7.2
FC: 0
TA: 120
CH: 220
Temp: 85
CSI: -.20

I can't find the place in the Pool Math App to add a note of adding the sequestrant today. I thought there was a place to add notes. As well as logging when I brush, vacuum and clean the filter - I don't see that as well.

Questions: Tomorrow I was going to start to adjust pH, TA and CH. Since my pH is already at 7.2, and Pmath says to add acid to lower TA. Do I just leave the TA where it is at for now, or lower it to 7.0 after testing tomorrow and running the filter 24/7?

The CH is a little low. Should I wait a bit before adding Calcium Chloride Dihyrate?

If I should wait on adjusting these, I wonder if the PB will say I'm not managing it correctly and nullify the warranty. After all the list I gave them does say that I will start to adjust those starting Day 1.
Click to expand...

5.5?!? Wow. Nice.

Are you on the latest version of Pool Math? They moved some of the logging stuff since v1. Hit the "+ New Log" button at the bottom and you'll see "Notes" and "Maintenance" and other choices too. That's all new to the new version.

I want Kim to verify, but I'd say leave everything alone. Your pH is going to rise on it's own. Don't go below 7.2. You'll bring that down each day with muriatic acid, which will also reduce your TA over time. And I'd wait to see if your pool was going to tweak your CH before I added any. Your CH will naturally be on the rise from your fill water, too. Ride the low range to postpone the inevitable water exchange from too much CH. I would adjust pH each day to get your CSI as close to zero as possible. A little negative is OK. If you experience a massive spike in pH, then I'd dose several times a day. I've read here PBs dumping in gallons of acid. I don't like the sound of that. If it's moving around a lot, just test and dose a lot, if you can. Do what you gotta do to keep it between 7.2 and 7.8, as often as you need to do it. If it's moving like crazy, I think that won't be for long.

I wish your FC wasn't 0. Usually there's some chlorine in fill water. But the card says wait a couple days. Not exactly sure what to advise there. Kim?

Regarding the PB/warranty... this is what I'd do (repeating myself). Let the Pool Guy test the water if he wants to. If he wants to add anything, just stop him. Ask him what he recommends. Nod your head. Tell him you'll take care of that. If he stinks, just tell him you want to use your own stuff, measure everything carefully and record all the dosing. "But thanks just the same." Offer him a cool drink. Walk him to the door.

Then either ignore him, or post his recommendation here and check in.
 
Just got back from dinner and ready to hit the sack, but wanted to check in. The pool guy was supposed to arrive between 3-5, but instead arrived at 5:45, just as we were leaving for dinner. I met him at the front of the house and told him that everything was fine, the filter was on, I told him the test results which he said was great. I commented on the high TA and he said that it was fine that the range was 80-200, and the CH was fine.

I asked him if he had a chance to review my list, and he said it had everything he would expect and that there was nothing he would change. I asked if he want to take a quick look - and he said no, looks like you have it under control. I get the impression he will not be back unless I ask.

The stress has dropped off my shoulders ... so much that I forgot want it felt like. I owe that to you ... all of you for your help, education and support.

Sleep time...
I'll give an update tomorrow.
THANK YOU!!!!
 
Awesome! So great to see.

Our TA was 140. It’s not a problem. I was advised here that along with my lower than suggested CH it kind of balanced things out. It has dropped to 100 now from all the acid that has gone in. Planning to bring my CH up a little now to compensate.

Love the look of the white pebble!
 
Score 1 for Yorker!! Bye-bye pool guy!

TA is the last thing we adjust. It will come down while you adjust your pH like Riley says. She has just gone through what you are going through with the same kind of numbers. Follow her lead please.

Dirk, trust in the NPC card. I forget why it says to wait on the FC but it was a very good reason.

Kim:kim:
 
Waiting for the sun to warm the pool a couple more degrees before swimming some laps and appreciating the "purty" pebbles.

The Pool Plumbing guy is supposed to come by today to work on a couple leaks. One at the main pumps outflow side, and the other at the SWG. It seems the Pool Guy says he saw a leak there (before the draining of the pool), used a wrench to tighten the union and it developed a stress crack.

I'm wondering how bad is it that the pipe the runs parallel to the heater is actually not parallel. To make it parallel, they will probably need to move the heater and redo a few pipes and elbows.

I've seen lot's of equipment pads that look far worse that this.

My question is does this angled pipe put unnecessary stress on the fittings?

Crack.jpg SWG.jpg
 
Have you determined what flow rate it takes to close the flow switch on the SWCG? It should not be over 1600 rpm or so.

I say this, because, for best performance there should be 12 inches of straight pipe before the SWCG. It is stated in the IC installation manual. Also the check valve right before the flow switch makes for quite a bit of turbulence.

I had my plumbing redone as it took 2100 rpm to close the flow switch because I had a 90 just before the flow switch. After rearranging, I can now run the pump at 1600 rpm (100 rpm above what is needed to close the flow switch).

Looks like they handled the poor piping with angling the 90 from the check valve to the SWCG.
 
mknauss said:
Have you determined what flow rate it takes to close the flow switch on the SWCG? It should not be over 1600 rpm or so.

I say this, because, for best performance there should be 12 inches of straight pipe before the SWCG. It is stated in the IC installation manual. Also the check valve right before the flow switch makes for quite a bit of turbulence.

I had my plumbing redone as it took 2100 rpm to close the flow switch because I had a 90 just before the flow switch. After rearranging, I can now run the pump at 1600 rpm (100 rpm above what is needed to close the flow switch).

Looks like they handled the poor piping with angling the 90 from the check valve to the SWCG.
Click to expand...

Hi Marty,

The pipe coming out the back is 12" (including the connectors). The SW Cell, shows the flow direction is traveling towards the back.

Regarding the Flow Rate: I just looked at this thread, it mentions a 1-time measurement solution. Though the output on the filter is only about 5" above the pad.

And how would I know the flow rate it takes to close the flow switch on the SWCG?

York
 
The 12" of straight pipe is to be BEFORE the flow switch. Look at the arrow that says 'FLOW'. You need 12 " of straight pipe before that.

With the SWCG on, you lower your rpm on your pump until the light on the SWCG for Flow turns red. Then raise the rpm by 100 rpm. That is your minimum flow rate to close the flow switch on the SWCG.
 
mknauss said:
The 12" of straight pipe is to be BEFORE the flow switch. Look at the arrow that says 'FLOW'. You need 12 " of straight pipe before that.

With the SWCG on, you lower your rpm on your pump until the light on the SWCG for Flow turns red. Then raise the rpm by 100 rpm. That is your minimum flow rate to close the flow switch on the SWCG.
Click to expand...

Thanks for method to determine the flow rate. I'll have to wait 29 days before I can start the SWCG.

I looked at this page for the IC40 install, and it also says the cell is supposed to be 3' from the heater... I don't see how that would be possible unless my pad was much much longer.

So other than those install issues - does this angled pipe put unnecessary stress on the fittings or ?


IntelliChlor_Owners_Manual_Install.jpg
 

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