New Construction: Cathedral City CA

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The angle is not optimal. The connection on the outlet side of the SWCG into that Jandy valve may eventually have issues. Or it might not.

The heater distance is a carryover from the puck feeder days. Though you do not want it too close as the water temperature out of the heater can cause increased scale formation in the SWCG. But since we typically only run the heater for the spa, and the SWCG is turned way down when in SPA mode, it should not be a big deal.
 
The SWG could have been mounted much closer to the valve, not the elbow. That could be addressed by the plumber if you pursue it. That would also get it a little farther away from the heater. It'll be a little less convenient back there, but should be OK.

If you remove one of the union joints of the SWG (or watch the plumber do it), and the SWG doesn't misalign by any great amount from the corresponding fitting, then there is little stress on the plumbing. If he unscrews that union and the SWG or the corresponding pipe fitting spring away from each other, then, yes, they are being stressed, and that should be fixed. It's probably why it's leaking, and why it needs to be cranked down with a big wrench. Those unions are supposed to seal hand tight. And even when they're both off, the SWG should sit in there, perfectly aligned with the pipe before and the pipe after.

If you're still under warranty, or even if not, they should fix that properly. Otherwise, it'll raise its ugly little head at a later date (after warranty expires, of course).

Like mine, your plumber (the original one) jammed a lot of things too close together, not allowing extra pipe between fittings and components. This works fine until something needs replacing. Without spare pipe you have to start replacing perfectly good components, or kludge things together. The point being, that's the other reason you want this fixed, because if it fails outside of warranty, the fix might mean replacing expensive three-way valves and check valves, or heater unions, etc. Who knows. Make the PB make it right.
 
Thanks! Marty & Dirk,

The Plumber Guy never showed. I guess he will come on Monday.

I brushed and vacuumed this morning, and going to brush again this evening. When I brushed I did not get any plaster dust up at all. The pool remained crystal clear, just a very, very small amount dust/dirt was visible. Of I just did 3 tests and the pH was off the chart - After filling the pool it was 7.2 yesterday.

pH: 8.2+
TA: 120
CH: 320
CSI: .95
Temp: 86

I put in 52 oz of 14.5% MA. and going to wait a couple hours to retest.

OH... wondering if running the filter at 24/7 at a high rpm, would the 3 spillways contribute to the pH rise?

UPDATED TEST RESULT:
Just retested the pH after almost 2 hours and it did not budge.
 
Yes, spillways will increase pH. Keep adding acid. If it’s off the scale, dose as if it is 8.2. If your pump is running at a good clip, you can test and dose every half hour. Even more often until you see the pH budge. This is a critical time.
 
Don’t worry about that for now. You’re just looking to get any of your water into the sevens. Help it out: divide the dose equally and poor each portion in front of each return to distribute it more evenly faster.
 
Use PoolMath. Put 10000 into volume, 8.2 into pH and 7.2 into pH target. Be sure to put 120 into TA, as Pool Math uses TA to calc pH. Are you getting 35 oz of 31% MA? Dose that every 20 minutes. Turn your RPMs up if you like. The problem is, you don’t know where above 8.2 you are and you have a small pool. If you toss in a gallon when you happen to be at 8.3, you’ll crash your pH.

Just keeping adding 35 oz at a time until you see your pH register on the test, then you’ll know where you are and can allow more time in between doses to allow better mixing. The goal tonight is to get to 7.2 before you go to bed. Then wake up early and start again. Or bust out the Kaluha and coffee and you and the Mrs can make a night of it under the stars!
 
Just tested again, after adding 72oz of 14.5% MA about an hour ago. Numbers are:
pH: 7.7
TA: 130 (maybe 120*)
CH: 300

I just added 32oz more and will retest the pH in 30 min.

Question* when testing TA. 12 drops changed to pink, but 13 drops made it bright pink, 14 drops no change. Which is the correct measurement, when it changes and stays pink, or when it becomes bright pink and does not change with another drop?

FOUND THE ANSWER... It's add drops until it does not change, then subtract that last drop from the count. - I remember reading that about 5 months ago... :)
 

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This morning the pH was back up to 8.2. dosed it with my remaining 42oz, ran to HD got 4 gallons more, retested it was 7.8, added 64oz more and will test before heading out for breakfast.

I assume this spiking will continue for the 30 days, or at least after a while the spikes will not be as dramatic.
 
You have to have all fields filled in INCLUDING water temp.

The CYA test does not have to be redone unless there is a reason you think it has changed-heavy rain, adding more water by hose due to evaporation or splash out, etc. I test mine monthly unless we are getting a lot of rain.

FC and PH daily unless you are fighting the pH hard then twice a day for it.

TA and CH every other day or so.........if it is holding steady then space the testing out some.

Kim:kim:
 
Thanks Kim,

I just rechecked and the pH is still 7.2.

My 48 hour wait (after adding the sequestrant) to add chlorine is up at 4pm. At that time I was going to add chlorine to get it to 5.0 or 7.0. Then add stabilizer to get the CYA to 30 (sock inside skimmer - squeezing :). If I remember correctly, it may take a couple days to register correctly, but I want to target on the low end because the CYA will continue to rise. If it has not reached 30, use pMath and add more stabilizer.
 
Good plan, but what did you mean by "CYA will continue to rise." I may be misreading. It's not like salt or CH. It doesn't come in from fill water. You have to specifically add it. So if you put in enough to get CYA30, that's as high as it'll ever go, as long as you use only liquid chlorine (or bleach) to sanitize.

If you're planning to use pucks, then yes, it'll rise. Or if you meant it will continue to test higher and higher each day as it finds it's way from the sock to your pool, then yes, you'll get rising test results (but the amount of CYA in your pool is constant).

CYA actually leaves a pool if not supplemented, so that's why we test, to make sure there's enough.
 
Dirk said:
Good plan, but what did you mean by "CYA will continue to rise." I may be misreading. It's not like salt or CH. It doesn't come in from fill water. You have to specifically add it. So if you put in enough to get CYA30, that's as high as it'll ever go, as long as you use only liquid chlorine (or bleach) to sanitize.

If you're planning to use pucks, then yes, it'll rise. Or if you meant it will continue to test higher and higher each day as it finds it's way from the sock to your pool, then yes, you'll get rising test results (but the amount of CYA in your pool is constant).

CYA actually leaves a pool if not supplemented, so that's why we test, to make sure there's enough.
Click to expand...

Dang, Darn! One day this will sink in. No I will NOT be using pucks unless we go on vacation (in the distant future). I must have confused that CH is what will rise. So I guess it's better to set 40 as my target for the the first month. Then when we convert to salt water, raise it to the low end range of 70. That would give some room for increase if for some reason we need to use pucks for a short time. And if it rains a lot (which doesn't happen often) I'd need to add more stabilizer.

Dirk... thanks for watching my back.

New Pebble.jpg
 
There's a few schools of thought. CYA is hard to test. It's the worst of the bunch. And the test has a large margin or error. So one school of thought, because this is the last time you'll know exactly how much CYA this batch of water has in it, zero, the most accurate CYA "reading" is based on Pool Math and how much CYA you add. Put another way: if you use Pool Math to determine you need X amount of CYA to achieve Y amount in your pool, and you add exactly X amount to the zero amount you know you now have, then that's the best you'll ever do when determining how much CYA is in your pool... it'll be Y amount. From that point forward, you'll be testing with that awful test, and "guesstimating" your results +/- the test's inaccuracy and the somewhat subjective way it's read, etc. So you'll never again know as accurately how much is in your pool, how much to add, and how much you'll end up with. It's all close enough for your FC target, but it'll always be a vague number, except for right now. Make sense?

The other school of thought, is you always short-change your chemical additions, test to determine the amount in the pool, then sneak up on the target with one or two smaller additions. This helps to ensure you never over shoot a level, as many of these levels can be added to easily, but require water exchange to reduce.

So it's up to you which method makes you more comfortable. Since you're going to end up with more CYA than what you have now, this is somewhat mute. If you hit 30, or 40, whatever, you just adjust your FC target accordingly. Eventually (in a month or so) you'll be adding CYA to get up to 70 or 80 for your SWG, so you can afford to be a little sloppy now. Next month it'll be more important not to overshoot your CYA level, and you'll use the "sneak up on it" method so that you don't.
 
4:00pm pH 7.7 added 64oz MA
4:30pm added 64oz 10.5% Bleach + 52oz dry Stabilizer
5:00pm pH 7.2 :) FC 1.0
5:00pm added 64oz 10.5% Bleach
Squeeze, squeeze ...squeeze Stabilizer
7:00pm - pH 7.2 / FC 3.0 added 32oz Bleach / CYA 20 Squeezed last of the Stabilizer

Will test CYA again tomorrow afternoon before adding any additional Stabilizer.

... I Feel Good (James Brown)

:rockon:
 

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