New home. New in ground pool. Many questions.
- Thread starter Moneypits
- Start date
Here are some pics of the acid the previous owner left and of the equipment- and the water which has got SIGNIFICANTLY greener just in the past day or two.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,951
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Can anyone tell me what kind of filters I need to get by looking at the equipment I have? With the previous owner running the pump all the time and the super cloudy water, I imagine I need to change the ones I have but I don't even know where to look. The deep end is far too cloudy to see what I am vacuuming but after vacuuming mainly the shallow end for 20 minutes both the vacuum and hose were filled with sand and small pebbles. Halp!
That is a sand filter.
Cleaning it is really easy. You shut off the pump. You turn the handle on that big valve to the backwash position, and you turn the pump on again. I can't see in the pictures, but somewhere on that valve there is a waste port where all the filthy water will spew from. Maybe into that half-burred canister thing? Can't tell. It might be hard plumbed or there may be a connector for a hose.
Anyway, after 30 seconds or so, the water will be clear. Shut the pump off. Turn the knob to rinse. Run it another fifteen seconds or so. Shut the pump off again. Turn to filter. Done. More detail here: Pool School - Maintenance and Cleaning of Pool Filters
If you can get some better pictures of the backside of the multiport valve, it will help us figure it out.
This is the multiport:
That is a sand filter.
Cleaning it is really easy. You shut off the pump. You turn the handle on that big valve to the backwash position, and you turn the pump on again. I can't see in the pictures, but somewhere on that valve there is a waste port where all the filthy water will spew from. Maybe into that half-burred canister thing? Can't tell. It might be hard plumbed or there may be a connector for a hose.
Anyway, after 30 seconds or so, the water will be clear. Shut the pump off. Turn the knob to rinse. Run it another fifteen seconds or so. Shut the pump off again. Turn to filter. Done. More detail here: Pool School - Maintenance and Cleaning of Pool Filters
If you can get some better pictures of the backside of the multiport valve, it will help us figure it out.
This is the multiport:
That is a sand filter.
Cleaning it is really easy. You shut off the pump. You turn the handle on that big valve to the backwash position, and you turn the pump on again. I can't see in the pictures, but somewhere on that valve there is a waste port where all the filthy water will spew from. Maybe into that half-burred canister thing? Can't tell. It might be hard plumbed or there may be a connector for a hose.
Anyway, after 30 seconds or so, the water will be clear. Shut the pump off. Turn the knob to rinse. Run it another fifteen seconds or so. Shut the pump off again. Turn to filter. Done. More detail here: Pool School - Maintenance and Cleaning of Pool Filters
If you can get some better pictures of the backside of the multiport valve, it will help us figure it out.
This is the multiport:
Mine looks just like that. And since you mention it, my buddy did show me how to run a backwash cycle, then turn it off, set it to rinse, and back to Filtration again.
Here are some more pics:
You're set, then! You already know how to backwash, and where the dirty water's going to end up.
It seems like one of the main issues is the sheer amount of sediment and material thats in the pool clouding it up. I can skim it clean and in an hour or two the surface is pretty full with more stuff. And this is with a fence around the pool. I may go get some basket socks and see if that helps any.
So since adding a gallon of liquid chlorine while waiting on my test kit to come (it will be here tomorrow), the water has gotten bluer but is still very cloudy. In a perfect pool, would should I be able to see to the bottom of a 12 foot pool? I know I'm nowhere near there yet but I want to manage expectations. I have been sweeping sediment torwards the deep end as described in this video-
Fastest Easy Way To Sweep Vacuum Swimming Pool - YouTube
Also, most people here are very pro liquid chlorine but I noticed my unit also has a chlorinator. How would I use the pool math calculator to determine the amount of solid chlorine to add to it? Is there a preferred puck/brand that will influence ph and other factors less than others? Thanks for any info!
Fastest Easy Way To Sweep Vacuum Swimming Pool - YouTube
Also, most people here are very pro liquid chlorine but I noticed my unit also has a chlorinator. How would I use the pool math calculator to determine the amount of solid chlorine to add to it? Is there a preferred puck/brand that will influence ph and other factors less than others? Thanks for any info!
When you get your test kit tomorrow you will test CYA. Very likely it will come back high and it is because of that chlorinator. Pools chlorinated with tablets and shocked dutifully as the pool world recommends are often overloaded with CYA. The only solution available to most people to fix high CYA is a large water change. Often 50% or more of the water will have to be drained and refilled.
CYA is a buffer for FC, the more you have the more FC you need to maintain. At some point the CYA gets so high the FC can't be maintained high enough and the pool turns green. Almost no amount of chlorine will bring it back with extremely high CYA levels. Liquid chlorine only adds chlorine, water and a small amount of salt, that is why everyone here is pro liquid!
Another option is to convert to saltwater. A SWG will produce chlorine from the salt in your pool. It is a bit expensive up front but will save you from buying and hauling all that liquid. The SWG comes with some maintenance and will eventually require a new cell but most people who have one would never go back. One of these two methods is used in almost every pool on here that isn't green!
Yes! when your pool is clear you will see the bottom very clearly. When it's TFP clear and flat still, it will look empty.
CYA is a buffer for FC, the more you have the more FC you need to maintain. At some point the CYA gets so high the FC can't be maintained high enough and the pool turns green. Almost no amount of chlorine will bring it back with extremely high CYA levels. Liquid chlorine only adds chlorine, water and a small amount of salt, that is why everyone here is pro liquid!
Another option is to convert to saltwater. A SWG will produce chlorine from the salt in your pool. It is a bit expensive up front but will save you from buying and hauling all that liquid. The SWG comes with some maintenance and will eventually require a new cell but most people who have one would never go back. One of these two methods is used in almost every pool on here that isn't green!
Yes! when your pool is clear you will see the bottom very clearly. When it's TFP clear and flat still, it will look empty.
Here is a couple great examples of a clear pool.
Are you on the fence about going to TFP?
14 years of pool stores and failure... - Page 5
Are you on the fence about going to TFP?
14 years of pool stores and failure... - Page 5
Test kit came in. I ordered the XL with the Speed Stir, etc. I'll test when I get home and then I'll likely be asking everyone what chemicals I need.
Is there a way where I can enjoy the benefits of that chlorinator without high CYA being an issue?
Is there a way where I can enjoy the benefits of that chlorinator without high CYA being an issue?
Another good example of "clear":
Unfortunately, those chlorinators don't work except with products that add CYA to your water. You can certainly use it if you plan to keep a close eye on your CYA and drain when it gets too high. Bear also in mind that SLAM requirements go through the roof with higher CYA, so if you let it get high and end up with algae, you're in even worse shape.
Unfortunately, those chlorinators don't work except with products that add CYA to your water. You can certainly use it if you plan to keep a close eye on your CYA and drain when it gets too high. Bear also in mind that SLAM requirements go through the roof with higher CYA, so if you let it get high and end up with algae, you're in even worse shape.
OH I can't wait for your first test results! Take your time and know it will get faster as you learn how to do the tests. Please look on the home page for the extended test help. There are videos as well.
Kim
Kim
I never got a chance to test the water yesterday but plan on doing it today. Which tests should I focus on? PH and chlorine tests instantly come to mind.
Also, just going by the dimensions of my pool, I really don't see how they have an accurate assessment of the size of my pool. The report says 36 x 18 but with a 12 foot deep end I just don't see how the pool could only have that amount of water in it. The sides ARE beveled underwater all around the pool so maybe that would cause it to hold significantly less water but I obviously don't want to start altering anything until I have an accurate size. What are my options to actually find the size of my pool?
Also, just going by the dimensions of my pool, I really don't see how they have an accurate assessment of the size of my pool. The report says 36 x 18 but with a 12 foot deep end I just don't see how the pool could only have that amount of water in it. The sides ARE beveled underwater all around the pool so maybe that would cause it to hold significantly less water but I obviously don't want to start altering anything until I have an accurate size. What are my options to actually find the size of my pool?
We will tweak you size as you test.
For right now break you pool up into smaller parts. Measure those parts then add up the results. Tell us what you did and what you got. We will spot check it. A picture of the pool when you do this will be helpful as well.
CYA is the first test I would like to see from you as THAT will drive what you do with all of the others.
Kim
For right now break you pool up into smaller parts. Measure those parts then add up the results. Tell us what you did and what you got. We will spot check it. A picture of the pool when you do this will be helpful as well.
CYA is the first test I would like to see from you as THAT will drive what you do with all of the others.
Kim
So just did a daily chlorine and PH test and a CYA test from the deep end of the pool.
Chlorine registered .05-1 which isn't surprising since I've been paranoid about adding any past the gallon of liquid bleach I added a few days ago. PH came out to 7.8 but the reagent didn't seem to fully mix with the pool water.
CYA came out to 70. I haven't performed any other test.
Chlorine registered .05-1 which isn't surprising since I've been paranoid about adding any past the gallon of liquid bleach I added a few days ago. PH came out to 7.8 but the reagent didn't seem to fully mix with the pool water.
CYA came out to 70. I haven't performed any other test.
Here we go!!! You are not as bad off as I thought you would be. Have you played with Pool Math yet? Look in my siggy for a link. Type in your CYA with 70 in the now and 30 in the goal. See how much water it tells you to drain. We need to get your CYA down to do the SLAM.
The link to the SLAM is also in my siggy. It needs to be printed out so you can read and reread it.
Look for you best price on chlorine/bleach that will be easy for you to pick up. Get about 15 gals/jugs to get you started on the SLAM. Make sure it is "fresh" as in no older than 3 months by checking the date code on it.
Kim
The link to the SLAM is also in my siggy. It needs to be printed out so you can read and reread it.
Look for you best price on chlorine/bleach that will be easy for you to pick up. Get about 15 gals/jugs to get you started on the SLAM. Make sure it is "fresh" as in no older than 3 months by checking the date code on it.
Kim
Jesus christ. Its saying I'll need to replace 43% of my water to get the CYA from 70 to 40. This brings up a question. How often is it required to drain a pool due to high CYA? Hopefully no more than once a season. Also, after purchasing the 15 gallons of liquid bleach, how often will I be buying a gallon of that to maintain chlorine? I understand that that is a function of CYA but it would be nice to know if I'm looking at 5 jugs a week/5 jugs a month/ 5 jugs a season, etc.
Thanks again for helping me out and pointing me in the right direction!
Thanks again for helping me out and pointing me in the right direction!
If you are not using solid chlorine products that contain CYA, such as pucks or solid "shock" products, and are only feeding your pool bleach or liquid chlorine, the answer is that other than to reverse the slow buildup of calcium from hard water, you never have to drain the pool.