Hayward Pl-Plus Automation - How To Program Pump?

[LegendsCreek]

I started another thread here because our pool is finished. Everything is going. Finished my wiring and today one of the installers came to collect all their things and he said "we are done, we don't program automation systems, I recommend watching youtube". We were told when the pool was sold that they will be here until the end to show us everything and get it up and going as it should and now they are leaving high and dry. This is likely because we bought the PL-Plus from another company due to the price being much cheaper and now they don't want to help us program it. They didn't even show us how to test the water, just said to bring in a sample at the end of the week.

The pool is 29,000 gallon, vinyl, hayward 400k propane, filter, Hayward VSP 1.65 THP, T-cell-15, with 2" PVC plumbing, and chlorine generator set to 50% for now until I can test it.

I need to program the pump settings to run every day, but I am not sure how long it should run, and at what speed. Also, when the pool calls for heat, it should turn on the pump also, correct?

Also, shouldn't the pool always be pumping so that the skimmer is always moving water or does it only do that when it runs on its scheduled time?

Thanks so much for all your advice.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Yeah, I can see why they left. You didn't buy their services when you bought the equipment elsewhere. Sorry but that's the risk one takes when shopping online.

Have you looked on Youtube for set up videos? I know so many pool videos are there.... worth a shot, right?

Pumps only need to run a couple hours per day, unless your SWG or heater needs more time. I keep my SWG down to 10% currently and am running the pump for about 6 hours a day to keep the skimmer working (lots of tree debris to move off the surface). Its a trial and error thing. You need to tweak it until it is set to your liking, but then as summer progresses and it gets hotter you will need to tweak it again.

My pump and SWG are on a timer, not fancy automation so I can't help you there. But Hayward should be able to provide manuals if you call them. Perhaps online manuals even - Google is your friend

Maddie

Oh yeah, as for testing I can advise you well!- TFTestkits.net has the best kit. The TF-100! Rocks all others (actually, there are only two we recommend. The TF-100 and the Taylor K-2006C. Both use the same Taylor reagents but the TF-100 is sized better to be a better buy)

 

[LegendsCreek]

Thank you very much for all the advice Maddie!

While I do understand the installer might not like that I didn't buy the equipment from them, they agreed to install it regardless, and said they would stay until the end to get us up and running and show us everything we need to know. To say "we're done, go on youtube" is not acceptable after giving them 30 grand. They should have at least given us recommendations on how much to run the pump, or at least told us what our testing levels were from the last time they tested it. I am very happy with the install, but bummed out that they didn't finish and keep all their promises.

I did read through all my Hayward manuals but there are no recommendations on how long to run the pump. I think I would like to keep it running on low, all day, but then move it on high at night. Right now there are a bunch of red things falling from the maple trees and also mayflies getting in the pool. Then the other issue is the heater, it does need to be at around 1500 rpm to kick the heater on so do you know if there is a separate pump setting that it will trigger when calling for heat?

Thanks for the TF-100 recommendation. I did already buy a Taylor test kit from Amazon. Its a K-2006. Should I get the TF-100 instead? I do know I should get a separate sodium chloride kit, but then again my automation tells me how many PPM of salt is in the pool so is this still necessary?

 

[YippeeSkippy]

No, the K-2006 is the alternative to the TF-100, it just has less of the reagents in it. If you got the K-2006C its better but it'll be fine either way.
Pool School - Test Kits Compared

Since you desire to run the pump longer run times, start your SWG at a lower percentage. Did they already add salt? You want to let the salt dissolve for a day or two before turning the SWG on. Bring your FC up to your desired level first with bleach (based on how much CYA you have in the water) and then let the SWG take over and maintain that level. The SWG works too slowly (by design) to bring you up from 0ppm FC to your desired amount. In the time it would take you could get an algae outbreak and we want to avoid that at all costs.

Longer run times on the pump will provide more skimmer action, but you can also tweak your returns to improve the movement of the water.

Since your pool builder is of little help, I also wouldn't bother with them with chemistry issues. Most PBs are pretty clueless about chemistry from what we hear here. TFP method is scientifically proven and backed up by *thousands* of pool owners. Its safe, cheap and rewarding to care for your own pool and when you see how a TFP pool sparkles, its priceless!

Holler back with any other questions you have. We're happy to help!

Maddie

 

[LegendsCreek]

Thanks again Maddie! I checked my order and did indeed get the K2006C kit and it should be here in a few days. I figured out how to program my pump. I set it to run at 10% speed from 6am to 10 pm, and then to run at 100% speed from 12am to 4 am. We will see how this goes.

Salt was already added over the weekend and is reading at 2900 ppm, but I won't know the real reading until I can use a real tester on it, and if it doesn't match the reading from the salt cell I will need to calibrate it.

I have no idea how much FC is in there, but I do know they added a bunch of things, stabilizer, baking soda, salt, and shock.