Still in the Planning Stage

Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here :)

My two cents is to skip the UV, ozone and in-floor cleaning for a more trouble free pool. Include funds for a robotic cleaner if you want to avoid some of the weekly brushing. If it was mine, I'd go 4' to 6' depth.
 
Welcome! :wave: I agree with needsajet. Unless your pool is indoors, our TX sun will provide all of the oxidation your water requires saving you from the UV/ozone products. A good robot is also a nice option that won't produce possible plumbing problems later. When you get the drawings from the builder, post them back here so we can see the locations of your return jets and skimmer(s). Keep your prevailing wind direction in mind for those poolside skimmer locations as well. Nice to have you with us.
 
Jo,

Just wanted to say Welcome to TFP... A Great place to be.. :lovetfp:

As the other have said, dump the Uv, Ozone and in-floor cleaning system. 3.5' to 4.5' is just not deep enough for most people. I recommend a play or sports pool that is 4' deep on each end with the middle being about 6'. This allows for pool volleyball and such games.

Spas, when incorporated into an in-ground pool, look great!! But... they will add $10K to $15K in cost. Other than the visual issue, a pre-built stand alone spa has a lot of advantages. They are much cheaper, more comfortable, cheaper to heat and cover, often have multiple options not found in a gunite spas, and if things go wrong, much easier to drain and refill for next to nothing.

I see you are getting Pentair's Intelliflo and SWCG.. If so, you really should look into getting Pentair's EasyTouch automation system, especially if you go forward with the Pool/Spa combination. It will make using the pool much easier and can be upgraded to allow for operation using your PC, tablet, or phone.

Thanks for posting and good luck with your planning,

Jim R.
 
Thank you for welcoming me into the forum and for sharing your advices! This will be our first time to own a pool. I am pursuing my life long dream even at a later stage in life. I'd like to incorporate as many convenient features as I can to operate the equipment and with the least amount of effort to maintain the right water chemistry and make it as trouble free and long lasting as it can be. Aesthetics is also important to us, to enjoy the view even when we're not swimming. We also plan to keep the house for a long time and pass it on to our kids in generations to come.

If I opt out of the In-floor cleaning system, I do plan to get a robotic system such as the Tiger Shark. But is there anyone who's had a recent model of the In-floor cleaning system and has experienced positive results? It seems to be a convenient and uncluttered alternative to the crawlers. From what I've read, most of the unhappy owners of the system had the old designs and/or were improperly installed. The new custom designed systems may be more effective and trouble free. It's important for me to decide now since I won't get the chance to install it later after the shell is built.
 
Jo,

The SWCG vs. rock battle is way, way, overblown. You can search this website and see what most people think. Little, if any, evidence has been given that leads to the conclusion that a saltwater pool is the cause for any stone failures. That said, common sense needs to be used.... If you are going be running water over the stone on a continual bases, then it makes sense to use a harder stone and not something like soft Oklahoma Flagstone. If the stone is just getting splashed on, then I don't believe it will make any difference. One thing I have noticed about Flagstone, before it is even used, you can look at the pieces and see that some stones have a smooth surfaces and others have a "layered" look. Saltwater or not, the ones that have a layered look will start to flake away over time.

Jim R.
 
I'm in favour of limestone / travertine because it doesn't get too hot for bare feet. Salt water pools with limestone coping and decks are very common down here.

Here's a couple of threads you'll probably find interesting:
Texas vs. SWG - What is the deal
Pictures of Salt Water flagstone or coping damage?

When you see damage, I'd say there's a few possible reasons. Salt water is very, very likely not one of the reasons. I was new to salt water pools when I came here, so I had to wade through a lot of reading and asking to get comfortable with it all. Interesting that asking down here drew blank stares because no one had even heard of the problem. Somewhere north of 80% of the pools here are salt water.

This is just my own two cents, but if I had to bet, I'd bet on these reasons for stone damage.

Poor quality stone
Long term low pH from: 1) continuous use of stabilized chlorine pucks, and/or 2) pool service weekly shocking with dichlor, and/or lack of proper testing
Freeze/thaw damage

As far as why it's happened in Texas, I'm almost positive it would have arisen from contractors squeezing out of warranty claims on poor stone by blaming water quality, salt, or whatever else was handy to blame and couldn't be challenged. Since PBs need the contractors, they have no choice but to go along, despite the lack of evidence.
 
Thanks again for your advices. At this point, I'm sold on having an swcg.

Are there any others who's had positive experiences with the in floor cleaning system? This will be my only chance to have one but if it had been proven to be ineffective, I wouldn't waste 5,000.00 on one and end up disabling it and buying a robotic cleaner. I've been offered the Paramount system. I was told by some PB's that it endangers the integrity of the pool shell with all the resulting holes in the bottom of the pool and the need of a jackhammer to fix them aside from customers finding them ineffective.
 
I have an above ground pool so take what I say with a whole block of salt LOL

-To me the in floor systems=more moving parts=more things that can break or wear out. That is just me and my gut talking.

I do LOVE the idea of the in floor systems! Life made easy! Have you done a search for them here and outside of TFP to see what others have said?

Kim:kim:
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thanks again for your advices. At this point, I'm sold on having an swcg.

Are there any others who's had positive experiences with the in floor cleaning system? This will be my only chance to have one but if it had been proven to be ineffective, I wouldn't waste 5,000.00 on one and end up disabling it and buying a robotic cleaner. I've been offered the Paramount system. I was told by some PB's that it endangers the integrity of the pool shell with all the resulting holes in the bottom of the pool and the need of a jackhammer to fix them aside from customers finding them ineffective.

I have an A&A in-floor cleaner and I like it a lot. It easily takes care of most debris in my pool and keeps the water looking quite nice with minimal effort on my part. If you plan on a pool heater, an in-floor system will distribute the warmed water much better than simple return jets. However, I've discovered that a good robotic cleaner (I own a Dolphin Nautilus +) will make pool maintenance even easier. With an in-floor system you will still have to brush down the sides, steps, etc. I bought the robot after 2 years of using the in-floor system and manually brushing. The robot does a better job than I do! After nearly 2 years of using the robot I am still amazed at how much unseen debris it captures off the bottom and sides of my pool–after the in-floor has finished it cycle!

Knowing what I know now, I would definitely skip the in-floor and put the $$ into a robotic cleaner! The rest of the responses from the TFP Gurus are spot on, too. Dump the UV and ozonator. Go for a pool depth of 4' on the ends with 6' in the middle. If you're an active family and like to swim for exercise, be certain you have an area long enough (straight line) to do laps! Last but not least, consider an acid injector system (Pentair IntellipH) to help control the pH with an SWCG. Good luck! :D
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.