1 week down on new plaster pool, will be swg in 3 weeks, questions

Aug 28, 2016
88
Baltimore Md
Thanks for all the help so far this site is awesome!

45k gallon diamondbrite , I'm battling high Alk with muratic acid and I have been adding bleach(not same time) , can't get the alk down and can't get the fac up, should I be adding anything else? Will be turning swg on in about 2 weeks. Is the fac getting burned up due to no stabilizer? The stabilizer says for chlorine pools only which mine is but only for 2 more week?
 
M,

Actually, SWCG pools use much more CYA than non-SWCG pool. Our recommendations are for a CYA of 70 to 80 with a Saltwater pool.

With zero CYA your FC will quickly get used up. For now you need to have a CYA of 30 and when you go saltwater bring it up to 70 or 80.

See this.. https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/134-recommended-levels

There is no way to tell what to recommend on the TA, as you did not tell us what it is .

Unless your TA is off the charts, for now I would worry much more about my pH which you also did not mention.

Please post a full set of test data...

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Today's test is as follows
CH 0
ph 7
alk 120 ��Getting better
ch 450
cya 0

i have not added anything for cya yet should I do that today? I have 4 gallons of instant conditioner liquid stabilizer and no reading of ch yet even after putting 6 gallons of bleach in pool throughout 3 days.
also I have waterfall running to raise Ph.

thanks

- - - Updated - - -

Also I have a question the CH numbers I'm giving you is from the k-1000 kit is that Fca or ch?
and how do I get the other number?
 
Yes, aim for 30 on CYA if you have 0. When your SWG is installed, bump it up to 70.

Do you have a TF-100 or a Taylor 2006? That is how we get precise chlorine numbers. We don't worry too much about total chlorine, just FC and CC.

Also, to avoid confusion, can you post results (going forward :) ) in the format Jim posted above? You have CH twice, which most people will assume is Calcium Hardness. So

FC
CC
.....

Thanks!
 
Yes, aim for 30 on CYA if you have 0. When your SWG is installed, bump it up to 70.

Do you have a TF-100 or a Taylor 2006? That is how we get precise chlorine numbers. We don't worry too much about total chlorine, just FC and CC.

Also, to avoid confusion, can you post results (going forward :) ) in the format Jim posted above? You have CH twice, which most people will assume is Calcium Hardness. So

FC
CC
.....

Thanks!

Before adding a bunch of stabilizer, let's make sure he doesn't need to SLAM.

OP - can you please add enough stabilizer to get to 30ppm, and once there, use bleach to get to FC 6 around sundown, wait half an hour with the pump running, then perform the OCLT (instructions: Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) )
 

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Ok one question is the daily blue kit that comes with tf-100 test ph and FC? If so here are my tests today, definitely lost chlorine today this am it was at 3(going by blue kit in tf-100)

- - - Updated - - -

FC 0
CC
PH 7.2
TA 120
CH 475
CYA 35
 
The FC test in the little blue kit (it's called an OTO test) is extremely unreliable, however, it is good for determining if there is some chlorine in the water.

If it is saying there is none, I suspect you may be on the edge of having an algae problem. You'll want to use bleach to dose the pool immediately to reach FC7 using PoolMath. Then follow the OCLT steps we've posted above. Report the results here please.
 
Awesome, please use the FAS/DPD test for chlorine (looks like you got that already). We'll look forward to seeing the results in the morning. Please remember to get results before the sun rises and hits the pool (I know, getting up that early is terrible!)
 

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