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Your pool is turning green because you are letting your FC drop too low. With a CYA of 50ppm, your FC should never go below 4ppm. Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

You can’t properly SLAM with a DPD test kit. You need a FAS/DPD kit.

Re:  I’m confused on what readings are correct. There’s always eBay for the Color Q :wink:

Re: I’m confused on what readings are correct. Pool $tore testing is terrible as you have seen first hand. There is a reason that we only recommend two certain kits, and the Color Q is not one of them. Trust your K2006

Welcome to the forum! Could you please update your signature with your pools details? It still reads "17,000 Gallon IG Vinyl, Searching for Builder-not constructed yet." This info will help us help you, especially knowing what equipment you have...

You reported your CYA at 80ppm, now it’s 50ppm? Did you exchange a large amount water? Are you doing the CYA test outdoors on a sunny day? Keep your back to the sun and read the view tube in your shadow at about waist height. https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/220-CYA

A SLAM is performed with bleach, and we specifically recommend against dichlor. Did you use 73% Cal-Hypo, or Dichlor? Each of those adds something different besides chlorine. The image below is a screenshot from the SLAM procedure.

Welcome to the forum. I don’t know where you read to use 73% Cal-Hypo to SLAM, but it was not on this forum. As mentioned, your SLAM FC level is 28ppm based on your CYA of 70ppm. Always use sodium hypochlorite, aka bleach, to perform a SLAM. Please re-read the procedure, and ask any...

Do you realize that when using Trichlor, for every 10ppm of FC you also get 6ppm of CYA? The FC will be consumed, but the CYA will build up, and get you where you are today. Have you confirmed CYA with an extended test? Extended Test Kit Directions

Remember, algae spores (and bacteria) are microscopic. By the time you see green there are millions of them. If you lost that much FC overnight, something is brewing alright. I would SLAM. After completing the SLAM, try targeting 1 or 2 ppm higher for your daily target. My pool is under two...

You passed the OCLT by the seat of your pants, the water is cloudy, and you swept up a pile of unknown fine debris? What color is the debris? If this were my pool I would . What’s your CC level?

Can your pool pass an ?

By your descriptions, you have the beginnings of an algae bloom. While you could do an OCLT to confirm, if this was my pool I would start a SLAM right away. As mentioned, you need to get your FC to 16ppm (not 10ppm) and keep it there until you pass all three criteria to end the SLAM. No Shortcuts.

Agree 100% FC test takes seconds.

How do you test the pool? Do you know your CYA level? What is your daily FC target? If these questions seem like a foreign language, have a read through the .

How are you hooking up the vacuum to the pump? Does the pool have one or two suction side connections? I would tend to agree that the pump is not going to be strong enough to vacuum well. If you maintain the correct sanitizer levels rain will have little to no impact on your pool. Remember...

If the CYA is 70ppm, your FC for the SLAM is 28ppm, not 24ppm. If possible, test just before bedtime, and dose as needed to get back to 28ppm. Repeat in the AM, and as often as possible. When I had to SLAM, I started on the weekend so I could test and dose very often for the first 2 days...

+1 It would have been best to do this before adding CYA, but if it were my pool I would do the to rule out algae as a source of FC demand.

While the chemistry and science behind it all is the same, the actual chemical levels will be governed by the city or county, and most likely will not agree with what we recommend. Please verify this before following TFP recommendations.

Don’t worry about the salt in bleach. One gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine will raise FC about 8ppm, and only add about 14ppm of salt.

When you add the DE, you will increase the amount of debris the filter will catch. Keep an eye on the pressure, it’s going to rise quickly as it it trapping finer (more) dirt.

Algaecide is a preventive item. Using it during an algae bloom is like getting the flu shot after you catch the flu, futile. Algae will not hurt you. Algae is your warning that sanitizer levels are too low, and that bacteria and person to person disease can survive if this cycle continues...

There’s quite a bit of difference between 0.1ppm and 0.01ppm when it comes to copper. I hope the algaecide you used is not copper based. I’ll also mention that the algaecide was a waste of money at this point.

Derb22 pretty much has it covered. You need a reliable way to measure your pool, especially FC. If you are having cloudiness issues you may have the beginning of an algae bloom (remember, they are microscopic algae cells, by the time your eye detects algae there are millions of them). You...

I know that life can be busy, but if you don’t test, how will you know how much bleach to add? I don’t think it takes me 5 min to check FC .....

1. No, especially if you cannot see someone in trouble at the bottom. You have no idea if the water is sanitized. 2. No. Even with the minimum CYA of 30ppm, you will need to maintain a FC of 12ppm. You will not find a test in Walmart that reads over 5ppm.

Re: New AG pool with SWG. Need help PLEASE with water balance and "water boatmen" bug Which kit did you get, the K2005 or K2006? If you have algae, a CYA of 70ppm requires a FC of 28ppm. The K2005 will not go that high. The K2005 will not be adequate for an OCLT either.

A SLAM takes as long as it takes to pass the 3 criteria to end. Depending on how bad the pool is, and how often you can test and dose, this could take multiple days. Don’t plan on finishing over a weekend. When I had to SLAM my pool, during the week I would check and dose before I left for...

You can check pH after 20-30 minutes of adding the muriatic acid if it was added into the return jet stream, and the pump was left running. Even if you had to check it three times that’s less than 90 minutes, far from all day.