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If your leak is large enough to see your CYA or salt level drop then you have a serious issue. You need to get a leak detector in there quickly.

The real question is why was your CYA high and now it's magically only at 30. CYA doesn't just go away. Go ahead and buy the acid, it won't go bad. I have used 8 gallons of acid since May, and just bought 4 more, but my TA was at 260 and it down to 120 now.

Who needs CYA when you have an SWG creating all the chlorine you could possibly need?

Maintain the salt level that your SWG recommends. Everything else follow TFP recommendations.

Good luck, they are about $150. Don't buy a used one

Depending on which aqualink system you have, it will either not produce chlorine, or it will only produce 20% of the time. You need a new sensor

Add salt

I don't know this for fact, but that's what I have seen other posts says.

I believe it will average over the next 24 hours and will be more accurate tomorrow.

As your pump runs, it turns the salt into chlorine. So now you have low salt, but you have the chlorine you desire. By morning the chlorine has broken back down to salt so your level is normal again. Add more salt so it doesn't get low throughout the day.

I have Jandy, but I did a fair amount of research before purchase. If I remember correctly, the Pentair has the flow and salt sensors built into the cell and Hayward was separate, so if the voltage and everything else is the same, you would also need sensors.

You can install it on its own breaker at the top of your panel if you have an open spot, or piggyback off one that's already in there if you don't have room for its own breaker.

Yes, you can leave them disconnected and control it directly on the SWG rather than through the aqualink. I works just as well, the only difference is that you have to walk over to the unit to view the status and adjust the levels rather than doing it from the remote.

Have you tried the boost function? Mine operated fine in boost mode but nothing for the regular cycle. Also, to answer the question in your title, when the aqua pure is connected to the aqualink there will be a funny little icon lit up on the aquapure unit.

I have the same issue so what I did was removed the 4 communication wires, removed power to the swg until all the lights went out. Then applied power to the swg while the 4 communication wires were still disconnected. The unit will reboot and no longer be connected to the system. Now press and...

Yes, use both sensors. One for air and the other for water. No shutoff switch next to the sub panel, only a 70 amp breaker in the main panel that feeds the sub. Yes, 90 before and after will be ok, just not ideal for flow.

The new sensors come with a circuit board used to calibrate. Did you use the circuit board?

The flow switch is just a little toggle switch anyways. The port that the flow switch installs into has several unused openings which would also make it easy to use a much cheaper generic flow switch. I am curious about hooking it to the timer though. I currently have mine connected to my...

I would keep the chlorinator and you can add the salt cell next to it. I put the flow switch right after the pump. It's a matter of drilling 4 holes and just plugging it in. It even comes with the bond wire.

I just installed a Jandy Apure35 system on my pool. It took me longer to add the salt than to install the whole system. I have an extra brand new one if you are interested. APURE35PLG is the model number

For the $1.50 a bag extra for the pool salt, it was worth the peace of mind. My salt level is still low so I am headed back for more. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Just got back from the Depot and they actually had pool salt for $1 more a bag so I just picked that up. Thanks for the help, I'm sure the question had been asked before but I couldn't find it when searching.

I just installed my Jandy Apure35 SWG and I need to buy some salt for it. On my last pool I just picked up some water softener salt from Home Depot, but I was wondering if there was a better alternative.

I'm not too worried about over chlorination of the spa, I have a large Palo verde that is constantly dumping deBristol in it. I usually drain the spa into the pool and then fill it back up when we get in it because the water is always a bit cloudy and with all the leaves and flowers, that's just...

I picked up a couple brand new Jandy Apure35plg systems as shelf-pulls. I was originally planning sell one to help offset the cost of the other, but now I am wondering if it would be beneficial to just keep it and install one on the pool and the other on the spa. It seems it would help on those...

Why spend $5 for chlorine when I have a chlorine generator? The system actually has a boost function which runs it at 100% for 24hrs. It is a normally used function so I don't see how running it at 100% for a few hours each day is going to burn the cell up. I just wanted to make sure that it...

Thanks, Jason. That is the best info I have found yet. It's cold enough that algae hasn't grown yet, but it will soon as it starts warming up more. If I can get a little bit in each day I should be able to stay ahead of it. I tossed a couple pucks in the floaters just in case. I should know all...

Actually it would be more effort to go buy more than to use the system. I am just not sure if it is ok for it to kick on and off as it goes above and below 50 degrees. I was told that 50 is when it stops working. I just didn't know if I could leave it on when the temp is too low or if it would...

We finally hit 51 degrees in the pool today so I wanted to boost the chlorine before it cools back down. If I run it at 100% will I get enough chlorine in a few hours to make a difference? I am just wondering if I should leave it on or turn it off until temps are consistent.

Considering this hasn't worked since it was installed then there is no reason to believe that it isn't wiring. Before I spend $160 on a new sensor it only makes sense to make sure it is wired correctly. It would be very easy to accidentally swap a couple wires.