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Adding chlorine "shock" does not affect TA

Your CYA is WAY low for a SWG pool. this is one of the reasons that your FC won't stay. Nothing about those readings says " replace 100% of the water". Are you sure that you have the right target amounts listed? You will need to replace some water to drop that salt level.

This chloride buildup is one of the things that the sorcerers at the pool store report to you as "TDS"

Hmmmmm

Better to err on the side of too much. You’re going to need to plan on making continuous adjustments over the next few days/weeks. I’d set it high and adjust down from there until you find your happy place

Where you are at in CA I’m guessing you’ve got a fairly intense UV load. I’d guess you’d probably use 2.0 ppm per day? That would be 7 hours at 40% @mknauss i think he’s fairly close to your neck of the woods any input?

You can do the math on SWG runtime using the app.

If i've done the math correctly, at 8 hours/20 percent, your SWG is generating 1.1 ppm of FC a day, which seems a bit low. Running the extra hour will bump to 1.3 PPM per day. If bumping to 40% is your only available option, I think you're going to have to dial the run time back a bit Maybe...

How's your water quality? If you're concerned, you could do an to be sure that you don't have any water issues and your chlorine usage is only to the sun.

I think that the issue that SWG causes corrosion is that SWG causes people to think that it's a set it and forget it kind of thing, and the out of check pH and other parameters cause damage.

Seems to me that it is plumbed correctly, In on the top, out on the bottom.

Just saying, it might be worth checking before you put a new cartridge in. Just because it’s been like that for years doesn’t mean it’s correct. A couple pictures of the plumbing setup would make it easy for us to tell if it’s correct. It may just be that it’s too dirty like you say, but a...

It appears from the photo that all of the debris is on the inside of the cartridge? They are designed to have the water flow from the outside towards the middle, not the other way around

I’ve been known to be wrong before, but is the pool filter plumbed correctly?

Been talking about a SWCG. Wife has some concern she will taste the salt. Want to make a cup of 3500 ppm water for her to taste. Anyone have any idea how much salt (by volume) I’d add to one cup of water to get this?

OP was losing water to a leak, not overflow or evaporation.

I read that in another thread that I would need to pick a pump, or pick an automation panel, and make my other purchases compatible with it. Decisions, decisions.

Wanting to upgrade soon a to a VSP. Also would like to be able to control some valve actuators because I would like to add a slide and a water feature or 2. - - - Updated - - - I’d like to do a solar installation on the house roof with temp sensors and a solar controller as well.

but if automation is something I’m looking to add in the future I’d be nuts not to buy the automation now with salt cell control built in as opposed to buying just the power supply and spending $$$$ on more automation later

I think the title says it all. If I were to switch to a SWG, do I need to be concerned about corrosion within my older AGP that has metal top rails, etc? Also, I know literally nothing about them. Do I need to have SWG compatible automation to use one? If not, what will I need to hook one up?

Unless you’re replacing large volumes of water due to rain, backwashing, splashout, or a leak, you won’t “use” your salt up.... well you will, but in laymen’s terms, your SWG uses Saltwater + Electricity to create chlorine, and then when the Chlorine sanitizes your pool, you get chlorine + nasty...