Search results

Pool volume was my discrepancy when I started. I began with what the pool builder said and then corrected my expectation based on TA and FC adjustment results. Now I have it dialed in, I get the expected result from and given chemical adjustment. Having a consistent bleach supplier helps...

If, at the time you sampled, the pool had not been circulating for a while, you may have got a suppressed FC level due to your sample not being from homogeneous pool water.

I have always got my bleach from a bulk chemical supplier so it's availability is not seasonal and it is a higher concentration. I never close my pool. When water temp is 60 or below the FC consumption gets really low. I also go onto a shorter filter cycle once leaves have stopped dropping.

That will slowly bring it back up, very slowly. That said, there is no harm using all those tabs up over the long term. When you run out of tabs you can make the last adjustment with some powdered stabilizer. I just had to do that with Harvey.

chem geek, that would help him if he were in Arkansas, problem is he is in Alaska. Hence the large indoor pool. ;)

Flounder, not sure if you are an Apple or Android person. I use an Android app - Pool Pal that supports TFP methodology. Initially I setup pool details and target levels. I sit out on the patio and test, entering the results into the app. The app tells me how much to add. Being nerdy, I note in...

I agree, when you are at the top of the range, you are probably well past it. Keep adding acid till you get it down in range. You can retest 1/2 hr after adding as long as the pump is circulating water. Repeat until you are where you need to be. Can't say it is good to swim without a test...

To get rid of CYA you gotta do a partial drain. Poolmath will let you know how much. We need to know your pool details (pop them in your signature line) Volume, Salt or Bleach, Plaster or Vinyl, Inground/Above Ground. That sort of stuff. Let me make an educated guess, you are plaster and...

1) 1ppm is overnight is good. 2) & 3) Use the MA to bring down your pH & TA then let aeration bring pH back up to normal levels. This will leave your TA lower. As for the CYA that will take some water exchange to get down if you want it lower. In Texas we bleachers keep our CYA on the higher end...

Might need the whole pair of socks.

And since you were asking; Gunite or Shotcrete is the form of concrete that makes up the pool shell. The plaster is then coated onto this rough surface to give it a smooth decorative finish. Older gunite pools typically had white plaster. Nowdays there are a lot of pebble/plaster blend options...

Holding up to the sky (not toward sun) is the way I have always tested. The siding is reflected light (it's also been through the liquid twice) and this will not read correctly.

High is a relative term. It is still much more diluted that the strength you would use to clean your floor. Your Robot should be fine.

" lose between 7-8ppm by 10am" This means keep going. Algae is consuming this FC and dying. "12.5psi and after 24 hours it's at 14.5psi" This is the dead algae. You are just not over the hump yet. Keep at it, it will pull through.

Boosting the FC is a plus, as the pool will be diluted with rain and overflow. Make sure you have some bleach on hand to bring it back in range after the storm. I would not drain the pool that severely. Usually I have pumped down to bottom edge of skimmer then only pump more when level rises...

Welcome to TFP Not surprising that you are burning off that much FC. That CYA level needs to be brought up to 40-50. It will help protect the FC you add from the sun. Next time you test FC, check the CC. Since you have been dropping to 0 FC, I would expect a CC value > 0.5 Any time your FC drops...

sycamore leaves are slightly acidic according to gardening websites. So your pH would go down if anything.

How often is he visiting to dose? If it is not daily, he might allow you to add a little chlorine every day to keep it safe.

If your Target is 50ppm then don't rush up on it. You say you are presently below 20ppm. I'd add 20ppm this week and retest. It is such a pain to get it back down that easing up on is better.

Sorry took so long to get back to you Brian, I was off-Forum for a bit. Yes, break out the sock again and make sure you squeeze that sucker every chance you get. You need to try and keep that FC higher than that. Any time it slips below min FC value for your CYA level, algae it on the rise. This...

Did the pool guy put pucks in your chlorinator? or is he adding manually? My guy used chlorinator so FC gradually crept up, rather than dumping chlorine directly in pool.

Re: Frustrated after drain and refill You are done when all of the following are true: 1. CC is 0.5 or lower; 2. You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less); 3. And the water is clear. Per the SLAM procedures.

Bryan, If you add more CYA, add it based on the sum of what you have added plus the difference between dosing for 10 and 20 (original starting point). Your test tomorrow will still not be reading actual due to the latency of CYA detection. You do not want your CYA to overshoot your target. The...

Yes, keep that FC up at target for sure. If you are still seeing dot @ 20 then you are less than 20. If your initial CYA was 20 and you based your CYA addition on that you may need a little more CYA. I say this because even if none of the CYA you added is registering yet, your starting point is...

How much CYA is left in the sock? I would think it should all be dissolved by now. If you are getting anything like the weather we have been having (nearly 2 weeks of over 100 deg) that sun is chewing up FC. It might be getting close to time for that CYA test. What was your target CYA; 40? 50...

It may be sampling method that is skewing your results. When does your pool circulate? If it is already circulating when you test in the morning, but has been static in the afternoon, you could get low afternoon readings and accurate morning ones. When a pool has been undisturbed during sunny...

Bryan, are you testing your CC as well? The Combined Chloramines lets you know if you have anything organic consuming your FC. Ideally it is zero but acceptable range is 0-0.5

Ok, so that was the life event. Zero CYA means there is nothing 'holding' the FC in the water when the sun is beating on your pool. Up north they can stay on the low end of the CYA range but down south where we are, staying closer to the top prevents the 5-7 ppm FC drops during a sunny day...

Was their a 'life event' that occurred to drop the CYA? Heavy rain and overflow, partial emptying of pool and refill? It is unusual for the CYA to swing that amount. Might want to retest that to confirm it before making other adjustment as the pool is acting like there is more CYA than the last...

Any level of FC below SLAM level and it is safe to swim. Above this, people with sensitive skin may get skin irritation and swimsuits will likely fade more quickly with extended contact.