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I currently have a 100 foot home run from the house where I installed an AFCI/GFCI breaker to an GFCI outlet already. It is the pump to the outlet where the issue lies and wanting to "hide" the pumps electrical wire.

The power cable coming off my Hayward Pump currently lays across a 3-foot grass strip to the power outlet. The issue is it is a tripping hazard not to mention I have to unplug it every time I mow. I was thinking about burying a 2-inch conduit just to pass the cord through and waterproofing it...

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/WAYNE-57729-WYNP-WAPC250-Automatic-Removal/dp/B008PPPRUK/ref=sr_1_18_sspa?crid=3UDVLCD9QMFHF&keywords=pool%2Bcover%2Bdrain&qid=1666807172&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjM1IiwicXNhIjoiMy4xMCIsInFzcCI6IjMuMTIifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=pool%2Bcover%2Bdrain%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-18-spons&th=1

When running normally my pump is around 12psi. When I connect the bot to my return, I have to turn back the flow rate and turn on the fountain, else the bot becomes an airplane. When I do this the pressure is just under 20psi. Just want to make sure the Hayward pump can handle this pressure...

If it is ABS I would recommend not only repairing the leak but potentially replacing as much of the ABS as possible since you will already be working on it. Repairing ABS is really not that difficult. Being in NE as well, when I did my plumbing, I made sure that I had unions and drains in...

No, as I unplugged the pump to mow the grass, when I plugged it back in and turned it on it just hummed. The water is coming between the nut and the base plate, so I assume that the "O" ring is just not properly seating down hard enough. I can try the Teflon tape and see if that allows the nut...

I would cut as much as the black poly out and covert it to schd 40 PVC. This might help...

So, my pump "locked up" and I had to take apart the plumbing to remove the pump so I could fix it. When I put everything back together the pumps housing's union (connection from sand filter to pump) leaked like a sieve. I tried to tighten the union nut but just as it goes to tighten it slips...

Do you have a pressure gauge? I know when I get close to 15-20psi it is time. When the pressure gets that high my return is vastly reduced, and the fountain becomes a trickle.

When is the last time you backwashed and rinsed?

The outlet is already 6 feet from the pool. Any closer is a code violation. As noted above I will be adding a cap the overall design has changed slightly by adding (2) 90s at each end and elevating the entry exits about 6 inches above ground. This should only leave me with bugz as an issue...

I am going to use 3 inch PVC with 2 90s on either end. Then cap it with this as I want to stop as much moister and bugz entering it as possible. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PDSPTYP/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A18TSLLRBA5DL9&psc=1 I might even use some duct seal to close it up even...

Well, I ended up moving my pump a closer to my pool but further from its outlet. Now the cord just lies across the ground up to the GFI outlet. Is there/can I bury some sort of conduit/trench that the cord will pass through under ground so that I do not have to unplug it each time I mow...

I also replaced the oversized Intex intakes. With the smaller pool the kids kept backing into them and getting scratched up.

As someone was interested in seeing the rest of the plumbing... Note the drain (for winterizing). I also added Gorilla Waterproof Patch & Seal Tape to where the Intex Fountain sits to provide protection to the liner itself. The reason for the "soft" hose vs hard plumbing the fountain is we...

I would use JB Plastic Weld...

Well, mostly due to cowboycasey pointing out last year my use of DWV PVC fittings (yes, I know my return STILL has 2 pieces), I started piecing together a new plumbing setup using standard Hayward Intakes and return fittings and completely eliminating the Intex parts and finally had a chance to...

Well, I am on year 3 and decided to redo my PVC lines as I learned a bit after my first go-round (used DWV) and although I had no issues, I want to head off any potential ones as well as relocate my pump and filter and replace the 2 flex-hoses. I am hoping to move the pump about 3-4 feet away...

I actually ended up with a 1hp single speed as finding the others in stock was proving difficult at the time and I needed something if I was going to open the pool at all. I run it for about 10 hours a day. As for electric I have solar which is 100% offset so my electric bill is only $18/month.

I'll leaving the bonding question to someone more knowledgeable. In regards to the electric portion either the circuit breaker or your outlets need to be GFCI rated. This is a major safety requirement. With a 40 amp circuit, you are going to need to replace the wire as well with 8 gauge wire...

Welcome to TFP :) I am willing to bet that the 14/2 wire they pulled is not up to code as conductors must be rated for 125% of the motor FLC. For example say you have a pump that is rated for 13.5amps. The calculation would be 13.5 x 1.25 = 16.9amps minimum circuit capacity, thus requiring...

From what I can tell they converted the 2 into 1 valve to having 2 independent valves for each intake?

Have you lubricated the rubber O rings with a Teflon lubricant? I would stay away from petroleum based ones like Vaseline. Also not all Teflon tape is created equal. I only use Blue Monster. The next picture with the valve and the adapter shows (2) O rings. I have not seen or used this sort...

I have not seen the back of the cover to see how the switch is wired but looking around I found this cover starting at $21 on up...

Have you tested the water for hardness? Soluble ferrous iron in water, appropriately referred to as clear-water iron turns orange when exposed to air. From what know this is more of a staining, then build up of deposits. Maybe @mknauss will have an idea?

Is it a slimy, glue-like substance? If yes I would say it might be biofilm.

I linked you to a reinforced hose that will work between your filter and pump which is clampable. You CAN NOT clamp flexible PVC. Blow Torch :eek: All you will do with a blow torch is affect its structural integrity and distort it. The melting point is about 176 degrees. To soften flexible...

Outside from changing the fitting to allow the flexible PVC to be glued and probably requiring a union so you can take things apart, it will be much easier and less expensive to replace it with the proper hose (not sure why they included a flexible PVC hose, if in fact that is what it is). My...

Is that flexible PVC tubing? If so flexible PVC is really not designed to be clamped. It has internal reinforcing that keeps it from collapsing.

The installer really could have at the very lest squared the pump off to the base and drilled a few holes if they did not have the correct base.