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So how did acorns get past the filter into the return lines?? Very strange.

Better to just replace the valve (G-52)

Re: underwater lightbulb keeps burning out Regular floodlights won't survive in a pool fixture, Try a bulb rated for use in a swimming pool fixture, They are different.

Try reseating the temp sensor connection at the PC board.

Start by cleaning all of the spade connectors. If that doesn't improve things, you probably want to replace the thermocouple. Yes, jumping those two terminals bypasses all the safety and control switches.

Have you cleaned the air vents on the motor?

You can't really fix a union with tape. In this case it looks like the union is missing its o-ring (goes between the black part and the tan part of the coupling). Or you can dig it out.

Only if there is a chlorinator or if the heater is below the water level in the pool

Insure that the screen at the wall fitting is clean. If so, remove the wall fitting. If the pump is operating, the pressure at the wall should be substantially greater with the pump on than with it off.

It's not a Pentair part. It's a "Light Wedge", made by "Pool Tool"

You can unplug the relay that controls the booster pump (at the Aqualink panel), then plug it back in when it's time to use the cleaner again. Or, if the booster has a seperate circuit breaker, turn it off.

Loop Loc will make a new cover with the old one as a pattern.

It's a Pentair "Legend" pool cleaner. The back-up valve pictured is a "Polaris" unit (works fina as a replacement for the original). The tail whip has the end worn off. Parts are readily available either on line or at your local pool store.

Unless you can find the missing pieces, it's best to just replace it. They are readily available, either Polaris or Pentair.

I would try increasing the back pressure. If there's any valves on the return side, try closing them slightly. If there are no valves, try return fittings that are slightly more restrictive than the ones that are there.

That is not a check valve. Even if there was a check valve the spa would only drain down to rhe level of the water in the pool. Since it drained entirely, my bet is that the valve (probably a three way) that selects between pool and spa suction is NOT closing spa suction when the system is in...

Check the head float. They often leak & fill with water.

Yep, it's intended for a pressure side cleaner (could also be used as a vacuum port). This was a fairly common practice not long ago.

Try putting the multiport valve into "recirculate". This eliminates a clogged filter as the culprit.

I would replace the valve with a recent valve, if for no other reason than the older compool valves used screws to hold the top on that are an unusual thread size.

Pentair R211084

google spa or hot tub suction fittings.

That noise is, almost certainly, a failing motor bearing.

One more comment. This unit displays the pressure switch error when (in remote operation) there is no call for heat. That is, the Aqualink thinks it's set temperature has been reached (a more complete explanation is in the Jandy manual).

Pressure switch is behind the upper front panel (#59 in the parts breakdown). It's secured by screws running vertically from the bottom of the panel. Remove the screws and the panel slides down.

P360's work OK. P380's (with booster) work better. P280's (with booster) work almost as well as P380's, and are far more reliable.

I think that price sounds very fair. Chances are that the over-the-deck plumbing was put in to keep the pool running when the original plumbing failed. If I were doing it, I would insist on draining the pool too!

I completely agree with this comment. I would add that, over time, I would expect the excess plaster to go away all by itself. Frankly, that surface looks very good to me.

That noise is a bearing failing. Bearings can be replaced. Motors can be rebuilt. Motors can be replaced. You don't have to replace the whole pump.

RS485 is a serial protocol. You can, in fact, attach two devices to the same red, 4 pin, connector. From experience, though, I strongly recommend using the expansion board.