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It's been quite a year for rain. Over the past three+ months I've had to add around 12-14 40lbs bags of salt. The overflow keeps over flowing practically every day and there have been about 6 or 7 rains that have been so heavy that the water spills over the top of the pool. Anyone else in New...

OK... I guess I'm all good ... the first 24 hrs evaporation (75F (water temp) pump running, low humidity) 1/4" the second 24 hrs evaporation (76F (water temp) no pump running, high humidity) 3/16". Measurements in the pool and the bucket exactly the same. Apparently, no leaks... so, I'm...

Thanks for the input folks! The humidity is hovering @ 50% today and tomorrow which is low for this neck of the woods. 10 hrs in and no measurable water level decline. Water temp is now 77F... is the water expanding? I'm shutting the pumps off @ 7pm and we'll see what happens overnight. dennis

Getting the pool ready for the year... we are @85F right now and water temp is 75F. I've never checked evaporation before... so here we go. I put the bucket is in the pool this morning @ 7am started pumps and filled the pool until the water just creep-ed into the bucket and filled it... water...

So, keep running the pump (sub-50 degree pool water). I will remove the Polaris 280 @ sub-50 as the hoses become stiff and brittle. I've only seen an extremely thin layer of ice form on the pool twice and only for a day or two over the last 15 years.

I test everything once a week (FC, CYA, pH, TA, Hardness... etc) primarily because I'm new at this. Next season I'll probably go to weekly on FC and pH and monthly on the other tests. I'm with you on the brushing thing and I am going to brush it today (this was my stupid test to see how long I...

New salt system and still learning. I'm getting there... 23 weeks without brushing or shocking and I'm down to running the pump 3 hrs a day. Historically, I've run the pumps about 2 hrs a day from my birthday (today) until Valentine or St. Paddy's Day (I do not run the pumps at all if the pool...

I did not build the pool... it's probably 50 years old. But I did redo the patio and I dry laid (in sand) the travertine. I'll pop up a couple of tiles next weekend and place an overflow drain in. THANK YOU!

If I understand correctly... then, all additional salt use is due to water replenishment (be it rain or fill water)? I have certainly been in the unfor=tunate situation where it has not rained for 10 days... added fill water then 2 days later had to reduce the pool water level because a...

I use the Taylor 2006. I backwash because the pool is overflowing... and the skimmer will not skim because the top of the skimmer is probably six (6) inches under water. So, rather than just drain off the excess water, I assumed (probably incorrectly) that it would be a good time to clean...

So, I am 16 weeks into using a chlorine generator (converted after 14 yrs fresh water). I have a 24,000 gal pool FC - Keeping it in the 3 - 5 range Salt - I am using one (1) 40lbs bag every two (2) weeks. I live in New Orleans and we do get a lot of rain (I generally Back Wash once every two (2)...

I haven't shocked or brushed the pool in 15 weeks... It's absolutely crystal clear. Here are my current numbers... FC 4.0... I added some liquid chlorine this morning to bring it up to snuff pH 7.6 CYA 60 (I've kept it at 50-60 for 12 weeks... started @ 100, it took a few weeks to...

OK... this is interesting ... I think the first thing I will do is turn off the generator, obtain the current FC number then approximately 24 hrs later (and before, running the generator) get the FC number and see how much FC is consumed in 24 hrs. Tomorrow (once I figure out how much FC has...

New to chlorine generation... I run the pump 6 hours a day I run the chlorine generator 65% of the time 3000-3200ppm Salt... Free Chlorine stays in the 4-5ppm range 2700-2900ppm Salt... Free Chlorine drops dramatically 1-2ppm range... turning the generator up to 100% of the time will not bring...

I'll try to keep this short... I stripped the old plaster and re-plastered about 4 months ago (total drain and refill). Borax is what I used the previous 13 years. I have not attempted to adjust the TA since the re-plaster... I tested a couple of weeks after the re-plaster when I obtained my...

OK, do *not* use Sodium Carbonate to raise TA... *use* Sodium Bi-Carbonate (baking soda) to raise TA. So, i'll take TA to 70-80 using baking soda (sodium bi-carbonate)... then, bring the pH down and see if the TA holds. Thank you Marty and Jason!

I'm in New Orleans... the above observation is spot on ...for me.

I searched exhaustively... and apparently, I am to stupid to figure this out. Free Chlorine... 4.0 CYA... 50 CH... 260 pH... 7.4 TA... 40 I've been using 20 Mule Team Borax to raise TA... then, Muriatic...

Y'all got some sweet pools! Anyone considering a *dark* pool should check out a few in your neighborhood that are 4 to 7 years old and decide from there. In my case the mottling didn't bother me. However, I do prefer the white plaster (the wife wanted the dark) the light refraction is...

Yup... I did a redo as you did ...coping, plaster, salt system etc. I even had *all* the old plaster removed down to the gunite. This was 4 months ago... and while *very*, *very* slight (barely noticeable) ...it has begun to mottle. I do not brush/scrub... just the wheeled pool cleaner. I...

14 years with a fresh water pool (which, I LOVE)... However, this has reduced *my* maintenance by 70%-80%... so far (let's hope it stays this way).

So... I am 10 weeks into the new (to me) salt/chlorine generator system... and, all is good. I have not brushed or shocked the pool in 10 weeks. The water chemistry is *very* *very* stable... I've been testing 2 to 3 times per week. I run my pump (single speed) 5 hrs a day (2pm-7pm). This...

Moved from here. Set this system up (acid injection) a few weeks ago... works great, so far... I eliminated the drip line buttons (emitters) and placed the clear poly tubing through a ground rod clamp (pinch valve) for flow control. I added a longer bolt to the ground rod clamp so that the...

Thanks!!! makes sense... I'm adding about a gallon of Muriatic Acid per week to keep the pH in check. Guess I'll go get the parts and build an acid feeder today. thanks again!!!! dennis

Newly re-plastered pool (plaster stripped to gunite) the pool was done about 10/12 weeks ago... then about 3 weeks ago ...Switched to Salt from FW. Over the past three (3) weeks I've done some fairly heavy back-washing to bring the Cyanuric Acid level down... which it has done. We have enough...

I should further qualify this... there is an 8"ID LARGE Hex nut on top of the tank. It screws into the tank and it has a large O-Ring as well. This is where the problem is... *not* the O-Ring that sits between the top of the tank and the valve and are secured together by a stainless steel...

Yes... I discovered the *cracks* in the fiberglass when I removed the valve to replace *that* O-Ring. I stopped immediately and did *not* attempt to replace the O-Ring. I carefully put everything back together and have been praying since Tuesday that it holds until I get the new filter. I'm...

Yes, it comes with the valve. I wanted to show what valve came with it so I listed it separately in the post (as many venders provide less than adequate descriptions of the products they sell). Most of the TA100D(s) I looked at came with 1.5" valves (if anyone else out there buys one look...

THANK YOU!!!! A little confirmation is *extremely* helpful. I ordered the following... Pentair 261185 2" TAGELUS Multiport Valve TA 100D Only Clamps Style 8" Neck Pentair 145240 TA100D TAGELUS SWIMMING POOL FILTER SAND 30" TM W/2" VALVE It's a package deal... hope it arrives before...