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As far as I know, the power for monitoring and thus the HUA comes from the low speed RS-485 bus and not the relay. The relay is to control the dosing pump and only turns on when the logic tells it to turn on to lower PH or add chlorine depending on the setup. I think the problem may be the model...

Whenever I make any of those changes the light turns off and then back on to the new setting.

I went with kind, but made a couple of adjustments after a few failures of units within a year each. My own failed it seemed due to heat and not water ingress. My transformer tap was set to 14v which is what Hayward recommends, but I dropped the tap to 13v so that the LED’s components don’t run...

Yup. Sounds like it’s a failed unit. My failures have been similar. Sometimes they would stay on, but just with a specifics color working while others do not. Sometimes they turn on and off. I haven’t tried a warranty claim though.

Fantastic!

There are a couple things that you can check: 1) Is there a schedule set in the app for the heater? 2) Is the main pump a variable speed pump that is on a schedule to be at low RPM during the night?

I don’t know if the chlorinator can be interlocked, but you can check in the interlock settings. Also, I am not sure how your plumbing is set up, but can you increase the speed of the vs pump so that more water goes through the spillover thus increasing the circulation? Do you have the cell...

Programming the valve states and pump speed would be best achieved by using themes. So for example, with scenario 1. From the Omnilogic app, set the closet valve to on and the valve in the back to off. Set your pump to the speed that you would like to for this scenario. Once all of the equipment...

I am not sure about the chlorinator, but the heater can be tied to a mode by configuring equipment to mode in the interlock settings. I imagine that the chlorinator can be tied to this too, but I don’t use a different bodies of water in my pool so cannot check. When you say your chlorinator is...

I am not sure if the Pentair uses the same design. The issue with Hayward is there are screens that need to be equally spaced on notches. They can shift if the laminar is started to abruptly the first time it is filling which is what causes the issue. If the Pentair laminar can be opened, check...

It can take a lot to unscrew it the first time. Remove the laminar can from the housing, remove the light and hoses. If I remember correctly, I wedged the laminar between my feet and used my hands to grip the cap and turn. It took a bit of effort.

Try searching for a thermowell elbow. It look like one.

Great news! Enjoy the pool!

I had a similar problem when my own were first installed. It also affected the lighting of the laminar. What I eventually figured out is that the mesh screens in the laminar had shifted. I assume that this happened on the first startup as they were not slowly filled. The laminar canister can be...

That is the color match umbrella sleeve if I am not mistaken. If it is, don’t worry. It is made to come apart like that in case you want to change the color of the cap and top sleeve to match your plaster or tile. The actual holder has a shoulder up to the plaster or tile and is cast in one...

I have a 4Ft sheer on a convex wall. Just below it is an in pool seat. What I did was put a Hayward 320 color logic light in the seat pointed up at the sheer.

The addition of Omnidirect only added new colors along with the ability to dim and control the speed of shows. No new shows were added. To control each one independently, each one will need to be on a separate relay on the main panel (Expansion relays cannot be used). Which means each light...

I've never heard it on a bubbler before, but singing pipes and fittings are usually due to the velocity of water going through it being too high. Are you on a variable speed pump? If so, try turning down the RPM to see if it helps. Also some bubblers come with different size nozzles. If yours...

I do not have the Jandy laminars, but instead have the Hayward. I had the same issue when I first installed them. I disassembled my own and found that there were about five mesh screens in them close to the top of the unit that are supposed to sit on tabs at different heights through the body of...

For the heater, you need to connect one of the low voltage relays to the white wire and orange wire in the heater. You then need to set the heater to BO mode. The instructions to do this are in the OmniLogic install manual.

I might be able to help. The two valve actuator spots not being used, are they 1 and 2? If so, those are not addressable. They are reserved for a spa suction and discharge in a pool/spa setup. As for a delay for one of the actuators, as far as I know there is no way to do this. That being said...

Are you running 320’s now?

Thanks. Yes I understand that. What I was trying to figure out is for those that use 320’s, how do they use the sunseeker since the sunseeker needs a receptacle. The 320’s install in a 1.5” pvc pipe with no receptacle since it uses a compression fit to make itself watertight. I want to switch to...

I am generally getting about a year from these Hayward lights. Really frustrating. I was looking at the Florida Sunseeker but noticed they need a return fixture to mount in. My 320’s mount inside 1.5” pvc. No fitting as this is how the 320’s are designed to be installed. How are you getting...

Hmm. That’s a strange one. Is your OmniLogic on the latest firmware? The issue that I had first discussed was fixed in the new firmware. The schedule actually turns on and off the heater now as opposed to how it used to work.

When you say bypass, you mean an electronic bypass valve? What firmware are you on? The latest OmniLogic firmware allows you to add a bypass valve when setting up the heater. Once that is done, the bypass valve is automatic. When the OmniLogic calls for the heater to run the valve opens and the...

Thank you for the reply. One of the transformers is a Hayward LTBUY11300. The other three are the junction box types offered by Hayward. The problem with the junction box types is that they do not offer taps and they are the ones reading close to 15v with lights on. Perhaps I will change these...

So I have 6 Hayward Colorlogic 320’s hooked up to an OmniLogic through Hayward transformers. I keep loosing lights every 8 to 12 months which is getting really expensive. They just start ramping up and down and lose some colors. Not all the lights die at the same time. I don’t want to believe...

It sounds like your MPP is having issues. Possibly corrupted firmware. Let us know what Hayward says.