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Thanks. So basically Pentair is 2+3 warranty. If builder will only use Jandy, what do you think? I used Jandy before.

In addition to pricing being all over the place, everyone has a different preference of equipment. So it even harder to really determine pricing. I am trying to determine between Pentair and Jandy. What are the thoughts? I've seen very conflicting things about Heyward.

Yes, I have used an integrated spa before. Are you saying they don't get ready as fast because the water from the pool also makes its way into the spa? What other features are not available that you can get in a standalone spa? We we're considering raising the spa 18 inches. Thanks,

Hi there, I'm looking into building a 7,000 - 10,000 gallon salt water pool with an 8 x 8 spa and would like to get some advice. We're considering pebble tech finish in either grey or black, with flushed spa and sun deck. We are open to a water feature, but want to preserve as much yard space as...

The tech said the fenwall needs to be because the heater is warming up properly but turns on/off. The ignition and gas are fine according to his diagnostics. He was able to wiggle some wires briefly that allowed the heater to turn on. However once those wires were loosened the fenwall flashed...

Can someone please help with this so I can determine which part to order? Is it the Fenwall ICM or the control board?

All of that was checked. The igniter is warm. Gas is fine. They said the ignition tries three times to start but won’t. After that it goes into a safety mode and shuts off.additionally the heater does not turn on when pushed on the aqua link. But just be powered on manually on the heater itself...

my bad I was told to replace the fenwall and the control panel. The control panel turns on so I don’t know which one is correct.

I am having issues getting my max e therm to ignite. Two people have diagnosed the heater and of course I got two different resolutions. One suggests the fenwall icm. The other suggest replacing the control board. The gas is fine, igniter is warm. The error code I receive is three flashing...

So to follow up on this there are lights turning on the interior control panel when I turn on the heater. The fenwall does blink 3 times. I have tried shutting the gas on/off and turning off all the breakers for several minutes. Nothing worked. What is the next step? Should I clean the filters?

Hey, I replaced the AFS module on my starite sr4000 and it still won’t ignite. Starite says the next thing to do would be to replace the controls module. Has anyone replaced both of these items and gotten their heater to ignite? Wondering if I should’ve just replaced the module.

So to confirm the zinc anode is not recommended for a salt water pool?

Hey, having this issue again. I have tried turning the gas off, turning electrical off for 5 mins, turning aqua link to lowest heat setting 0 for pool and spa. Then resetting everything. The heater will not ignite. I am receiving the service heater error and 3 flashing red lights on the fc...

I have the ic30. Basically I need to add chlorine and calculate the FC loss overnight. Then whatever ppm it loses, I need to set the swg to make. For example, I lose 2 ppm then 20 output is fine.

What do you suggest for the output setting? Mine is currently set to 20. Appreciate all your help!

Cool. So I need to run the cell and filter for an additional 12 hours after the 24 hours? Appreciate your help. I’m currently as 3200 ppm. Any reason to increase to the 3500 pppm? I would have to open a bag and eyeball it.

Cool. How long does it take for the generator to work after the salt is okay and has been filtered for 24 hours?

So basically it is automatically set to 3600 ppm. Thanks for this link.

How do I do that? That is correct. The Aqualink was too old for anything to be compatible. It was going to require an entirely new Aqualink and this is what was done. It does turn on when the pump is running.

Thanks! How do I set the Pentair ichlor? I thought it was set automatically. None of this was explained to my by the pool company….

Thanks for your help! So I need to add a little more than 4 more bags. Just confirming, I add the salt and run the pump for 24 hours with SWG off. Once that settles and PPM is correct, I can run the SWG.

Pool math set the calculation to 1000 ppm. I just used what the math provided me. Should I continue to run the pump and Swg? How much ppm do I need?

So I added the 60 lbs of salt that pool math said to add. I didn’t realized I didn’t have the sodium regent and ordered it. After 24 hours of running the filter, I turned on the SWG and it says I need to add more salt. Curious what I should do.

I don’t have a picture. Some pool companies that came out to look at the stuff said when I installed the SWG I needed to install some device that prevents salt going to the heater. Others said it wasn’t necessary.

I’m not sure what it’s called. Some pool companies said it needs to be installed since I have a heater and SWG. Others said no.

Do I need to install the device to prevent salt to the heater?

Got it. I’m adding all the chemicals. Do I turn on the SWG now or after the pump has been running for 24 hours?

By the way I don’t fully under the link. To maintain 70 CYA, does it mean I need to maintain 5 FC? Also should I be adding free chlorine to the pool or salt regularly? Lastly, how do I test for salt with my Taylor test kit?

Do I need to install the device to prevent salt to the heater?

This is not new plaster.